Forward to the past, taking notes! Hello and welcome to Fashion Bites. I am Ellen
Byerrum, author of the screwball noir Crime of Fashion Mysteries, featuring Lacey
Smithsonian, a fashion reporter in Washington DC, The City That Fashion
Forgot. As many of you know, Lacey Smithsonian, my character, wears a lot of
vintage clothing, most of which came from a trunk she inherited from her
Great-aunt Mimi. She finds inspiration in this trunk and sometimes she even finds
mystery there, in addition to all the great clothes. One of my favorite
comments from a review was, "Say, how BIG is that trunk anyway?!" Because I'm a
mystery writer, that trunk can be bottomless and somewhat magical. Today, in
response to a request on how I research things, I'm talking about the various
ways of looking into vintage fashion. First, there's formal study. I always
loved clothes, but I became more and more aware of what goes into decking our
bodies when I took a course in the history of costume when I was in college.
That course opened my eyes to the variety of clothes there are and their
effect on society, from sumptuary laws that restrict certain types of fashions
or colors, to the extreme styles before the French Revolution, which influenced
not only architecture and furniture but helped to inspire the Revolution itself.
The aristocracy put so much flour in their hair to turn it white, there was
not enough flour for bread! Certainly a reason for revolt. Books are a fabulous
resource. I still have my books from that course, including this one: FASHION, FROM
ANCIENT EGYPT TO THE PRESENT DAY, and WHAT PEOPLE WORE, a visual history of
dress from ancient times to 20th century America. Since then I have picked up some
great books on fashion and on fashion designers, including Edith Head
and this one: Adrian, a classic designer. And then there is my favorite fashion
book of all time, THE WAY WE WORE, by actress Marsha Hunt. In it there are
clothes from the late 1930s, all ones she wore, as well as stills from her movies
and lots of clothing and hairstyles and hats from the '30s and '40s. In addition to
books, old movies are great for seeing what people wore, although keep in mind
they may have been far more fashionable and costly than your average person
would afford. But please check out movies like THE PHILADELPHIA STORY, HIS GIRL
FRIDAY and IT HAPPENED ONE NIGHT. You may have guessed I also read old magazines.
These magazines give you insights into the prices and care of clothing and
what's worn at these times, including Mademoiselle and Ladies Home Companion,
in this marvelous oversized format. In addition you can find out about clothes
in the context of their times, as well as current events and what's happening in
the world. This one, October 9th 1944, the war has been going on and on and on, and
you see lots of articles about the war, about soldiers, as well as some clothing
articles to perk it up. Because a lot of women sewed their own clothing, you can
tell about the clothes through vintage patterns. They can show you the type of
craftsmanship that went into a lot of old garments. And Simplicity patterns
notwithstanding, a lot of these designs are very challenging to sew, especially
for today's seamstress. Another research method is to interview people who were
there. Obviously this doesn't work if you're researching too far back, but
talking with the people who lived through the times you're writing about is
invaluable, as are their diaries. These may give you that one piece
of information that really sparks the imagination, and they can tell you how
the clothes fit and what the fabrics felt like. And finally, I always love to
look at the clothes themselves. I have bought some wonderful vintage items,
including this jacket on the mannequin. All of these clothes tell stories. I have
found some lovely fabrics that I don't see in clothing stores, like heavy
crepe that doesn't wrinkle, wool crepe that always keeps its shape, and some
beautiful gabardines. There are clever seams and shaping you'll never find in
today's clothes, and in this jacket, which is a tiny navy check, the designer solved
the problem of gaping open on the chest with cleverly spaced buttons. This
taffeta jacket that I am wearing is simply fun, and I imagine that Lacey will
probably wear it in an upcoming book, or perhaps Mimi Smith, Lacey's great-aunt,
will wear it in a book I am currently writing which is set during World War
Two. There you have it, those are the main ways I research clothes for my
character Lacey Smithsonian. If you want to know more about me or my books, check
out my website at Ellen Byerrum dot com. I am also on Facebook, LinkedIn and Twitter. If
you liked this video please hit the LIKE button and consider subscribing to this
channel. That way you won't miss any. And feel free to share! This isn't a secret
society. I will see you next time. Bye!
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