Since arriving in Hong Kong, these designers have had a jam packed schedule.
But now is the time they have probably all been dreading...
which is the judging.
I'm here at Asia's largest fashion event, Centrestage,
to catch up with judge, and Fashion Director of The R Collective, Denise Ho,
to find out what she is looking for in the winning collection.
So Denise, this is going to be the grand prize for our fashion designers,
to design a collection for you guys.
Yeah.
So what are you looking for from the designers?
We're not only looking for talent, we're actually looking for someone
who can transfer waste into something very relatable to fashion nowadays.
Have they done enough research to make sure the material they are using is
truly, truly good for the environment?
And I think that construction, for us, is very, very important.
Because, obviously, if it's not finished properly then your clothes will break
very easily and that means that it goes back to the bin again.
Joining Denise on the judging panel are
Clare Press, Sustainability Editor-at-Large for Vogue Australia
Roger Lee, CEO of TAL Group
And co-founder of Fashion Revolution and the queen of up-cycling - Orsola de Castro.
The opportunity to present in front of these amazing judges is an opportunity of a lifetime.
Just to be in a room with them is a humbling experience for me.
Super nervous, actually!
I feel weirdly calm.
So let's see how this goes.
I start marking on the side.
The judges give the designers scores based on creativity and originality,
sustainability, marketability and workmanship.
Okay beautiful, should we start?
My name is Tess Whitfort and my collection is called 'Juxt'.
I wanted to create something that's really different to what's often seen within sustainable fashion.
We were only given three minutes to pitch.
It really made you focus on, like, what's the most important parts.
For me, being a sustainable designer
means being a bit of a rebel and not being afraid to
sort of, break the mold and try new things.
By repurposing what the mainstream culture has disregarded
I wanted to find stuff that was easily accessible in thrift stores,
so, menswear shirts,
work wear,
tablecloths,
and so on.
The way that you chose your fabrics, in terms of up-cycling, is ideal.
You went where you knew you could find as much as you want. The way that you chose your fabrics, in terms of up-cycling, is ideal.
You went where you knew you could find as much as you want.
She went straight for the right fabric,
straight for the right uses for them,
but I didn't think that it was a fashion collection.
I thought her knits were great!
If it was just on sweaters...
...she'd win.
Lucia from Spain.
I thought she was delightful, what nice energy.
I liked the way she explained her vision.
I always try to show how I feel in my collection
and I started developing some different techniques
for showing my frustration with the fashion industry.
I made liquid silicone threads,
I also made origami pleats.
Some patch needle and hand-painting...
It felt very experimental.
Yeah.
And I used also asymmetric shapes
to show that I was feeling unbalanced.
There's a lot of tests going on, like she is trying this and trying that.
But then it was a really, really coherent collection. Nicely finished.
Me and the other judges definitely have different opinions.
While working on this I was inspired by the documentary 'Chasing Ice'
which is about the climate change.
I didn't really understand the concept.
I liked it.
So he had been inspired by collapsing ice shelves
and then his concept was about the collapsibility of the silhouettes.
I was able to manipulate faux fur from the curtains.
Oh, so you've made this faux fur effect from strips?
Yes.
That's interesting.
He was a great sewer.
Yeah.
What did you think about Sarah Jane?
I thought that Sarah Jane was also such a beautiful sewer and it was nice to see
and I did think she was a bit nervous.
I want to talk to you a little but about, erm...
the limitations that I've...
...that have inspired me to create this collection.
When I moved to Tokyo I lived in a tiny little shoe box.
So I started thinking about creating a capsule collection for...
Sorry, I...
I started think..oh, god.
Honestly,
Erm, I think I bombed it.
I'm really terrible, my nerves just get in the way.
Thank you, I think it's really polished and beautiful
and your make is so nice, well done.
Thank you.
Her skill as a craftsperson was the best.
I agree, I think it was lovely,
that it could do well in a little atelier.
Again, to me it didn't speak fashion enough.
Tess from Australia?
The look is not my look
but the depth of thinking, very deep.
This process is more about pushing the limits of zero-waste pattern cutting
and really seeing what I could achieve. This process is more about pushing the limits of zero-waste pattern cutting
and really seeing what I could achieve.
For my most complex garments I used conventional blocks and then
jigsawed all the pattern pieces together.
You scale this, it's going to cost you a bazillion million to sew it
because of how many pieces.
So what's your solution on that?
In terms of actual commercial production?
I really like the concept of looking into
using AI software programs that can really scale this
Okay.
And I've started discussing that with some people.
Her zero-waste technique is impeccable.
I've never seen it done that interestingly.
Do you feel like the technique has gone deeper than before?
Totally, completely.
I recycle, like, bridal wear
and also the obi and kimonos.
I used tree bark.
It's called 'bark lace'.
I used tree bark as a raw material.
Through repeated hammering to stretch the fibers
we can get a very beautiful and natural lace look...
...bark fabric.
The bark lace was innovative.
I admire the fact that he'd used different sustainable techniques and fabrics.
He was consistent. I admire the fact that he'd used different sustainable techniques and fabrics.
He was consistent.
Ganit from Israel...
My project started from the old shredding machine
I found in my father's garage.
I am taking the fabrics that no one will use again
and turning it into a raw material
that I can make into new textiles.
Have you considered how your client will be taking care of these pieces?
Erm...
Have you washed them yourself?
Not yet.
So you have to have all of the information
for the aftercare of the garment that you are producing.
The pre-judging, it was hard actually.
What are the sustainable properties of liquid silicone?
Why did you choose it? How would you care for it?
Okay, there are many kinds of silicone...erm...
Mostly...
I wasn't expecting that hard questions, for example.
Have you thought about the weight of the garment?
When someone wears it?
How will you grade this?
What about these materials, what's their origin?
Sorry...
The yarn from the knitwear, this is 100% recycled plastic bottles.
And I did the knitwear fully fashioning to shape...
Sorry which one is the plastic bottles?
So this is made from 100% recycled plastic bottles.
I'm really, really sorry but anything made out of plastic
has such a negative environmental impact
as soon as you attempt to wash it.
It essentially reacts like a polyester, so it's easy care.
I know, when you wash polyester
it sheds millions of microfibers into the ocean.
You can also get guppy bags in order to like...
Guppy bags are not effective anymore.
For me, there is a fundamental lack of research problem.
In general, they all lacked a lot of research I found.
But I liked her way of pushing limits a little bit more than other people did.
I created this very heavy lace
from the very tiny pieces that I couldn't use for anything else.
How long did it take you to make this?
About two weeks.
Design wise, the first piece that took her two weeks was beautiful.
I wouldn't say what I have now is a solution.
But let's keep learning from our mistakes and keep going.
It can be a little bit overwhelming
being a sustainable fashion designer, definitely.
Especially as we create more solutions
they often seem to like, create new issues.
Not one person has the right answer.
The only way that we can achieve
some sort of change is if we learn from one another.
I spent the last two years living in between
the UK and a factory in Shanghai
to try and understand further the manufacturing process.
That was a really interesting experience
and it's really informed the way I've approached design going forward.
For this collection I used nylon for the project.
I thought that Lynsey did some interesting things
when it came to the up-cycling of stockings and tights.
We know that's a big waste stream.
But knit on the body...
...whether it's nylon or not
knit doesn't sit.
That's a collection that doesn't take into consideration
the physicality of the person that's going to wear it underneath it.
I wanted to create sustainable fashion
that a consumer would genuinely want to buy
and be encouraged to reuse.
I did get the impression that this woman knows her customer
and she designed for her customer.
Did you say these pants are reversible?
Yes, these pants are the same pattern as this.
Oh, reversible as in you can wear it front and back?
Yes, like this one so you can...
I found her to be a very good candidate
because I feel like her stuff is commercialised a little bit
but it's very, very beautiful as a collection.
Going back to Tess,
does she have the versatility to design something different?
I don't think so.
That's a concern.
I think that's what she does.
Actually, R Collective is getting into zero-waste
so that could be interesting for us.
How about Jesse from Hong Kong?
I love Jesse from Hong Kong!
In this collection, I use collected objects
like curtains,
and shopping bags,
umbrellas,
it's all from my home.
And I transform them into pieces with added sentimental value.
This is umbrellas?
Yes.
This is interesting, this can go round and round.
That's my favourite use of umbrella.
The socks...
Socks?
Is it?
It's all the socks from my grandma and my mum and cousins.
The socks?
Socks was...completely brilliant!
With visible darning being one of the coolest things in the world.
Is it he just stumbled upon waste and he figured out how to use it?
Or he really understood? Is it he just stumbled upon waste and he figured out how to use it?
Or he really understood?
The only way that you can really understand waste
is if you have the instinct
of knowing what to do with it when you stumble upon it.
Okay.
He's got potential.
Thank you.
Thank you so much, thank you.
It's so hard isn't it.
I guess, you know, the good thing is
It does change when you see them
really worn and on the runway.
To see them move. really worn and on the runway.
To see them move.
Yeah.
Can't wait!
Me too.
In the next episode of Frontline Fashion
It's show time!
The designers hopes and dreams will walk down the runway
at the Redress Design Award Grand Final.
Seeing my designs on the runway
It's insane, I mean who does this?
and the judges reveal who wowed them to win first place.
For more infomation >> Doña Letizia: por qué Fitur sí y la Madrid Fashion Week no - Duration: 5:36. 
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