Auto news on Youtube May 28 2018

my buddy owns a salvage business down the highway from me. That's where I get

most of my reclaimed material from. He's got some cool stuff laying around out there.

Once I got the board's picked out that I wanted I headed back to the shop

and cut them to rough length.

I jointed one edge straight so I could safely rip off the brown strip

left behind from the baton board that protected it from graying in the weather

Since the borders are not going to be sanded I didn't want to get any pencil

marks on the wood so I put some blue tape down so I can mark the locations of

the dominoes. I lined up the dominoes to the back of the door this way any

unevenness that might occur will show up on the show side of the door adding to

his distressed look

Again because the wood will not be sanded I did not want to get any glue

squeeze-out on the finished product so I use the least amount of glue possible

Because there are so many pieces to glue up I started gluing up smaller sub assemblies.

Then glued the sub assemblies together until I had a complete door.

I used calls to prevent the clamps from touching the wood during assembly I did

not want to get any of that black staining that typically happens when

glue and metal meets wood

the length of the door was much longer than any of my clamps so I rigged up a

reverse clamp to push against the final board to push it into place

With the other end of the door securely clamped to the table allowing me to push

all of it together

the f-style clamps is to help prevent bowing.

I use my track saw to cut it to

the final width and length.

I cleared off the bench and started cutting the steel

to length to build the frame. I mitered all of the corners

I ground a bevel along the miter to ensure my weld penetrated all the way to

the back this way I could grind the bead flat so it would look like one piece of

steel after it is painted. One of my favorite things about welding miters is

if the miter has a gap in it you can just filled up with molten steel

I welded flanges on the back to hold the wood in the frame. Even though the wood

is distressed and most likely the sparks would cool before leaving a mark on the

wood. I took time to protect the immediate area from the sparks. I also

wet the wood to prevent it from catching fire in case I got my bead too hot.

This board is for the header above the door to bolt the track too. To mark the bolt

locations I used a matching size drill bit and spun it backwards in the hole to

mark the locations I then switched to the proper size

drill to pre drill the pilot holes for the bolts at the drill press.

I used the drill press instead of a handheld drill to ensure a straight hole

Now I did a test fit of each bolt using a block of wood to hold it

straight as I drove them. If these bolts are a little off the door will not roll

on the track smoothly or hang straight

you