Thứ Năm, 31 tháng 5, 2018

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Build Stone Hut, House in the Trunk, Hobbit House, Tiled Roof Hut

For more infomation >> Primitive Technology: Build Stone Hut, House in the Trunk, Hobbit House, Tiled Roof Hut - Duration: 45:25.

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Building a Japanese Bamboo Box with Walnut and Cherry Accents - Duration: 12:04.

today I'm building a bamboo box accented with cherry and walnuts

I have a set of plans complete with templates for the legs and handles on my

website if you're interested in building one. I have a fair amount of scrap wood

laying around the shop so I'm going to batch out several of these boxes

Once I had all the materials gathered up I decided to use the 8/4 wide cherry I had

for the legs. So I just ripped them down too rough with on the bandsaw

then I cleaned up the material at the jointer and headed over to my table saw

to square off the ends and set up some stop blocks on my miter gauge to cut

them to length. I made sure I kept track of what side I had jointed to be

sure everything stayed square throughout the process

The legs are going to be joined to the sides with dominoes. On the long side

will be joined with two one on the top and one on the bottom. So I screw down a

jig to the table and put some stops down one on the left for the lower mortise

and one on the right for the upper mortise. For the short side of the box I

flip the leg over end over end and as luck would have it referencing off the

bottom of the legs put the mortise fairly centered on the side

for the curve in the leg I took the time to make a plywood template. This way I

can see the shape of the curve in its actual size to be sure I liked it.

The curves on the legs and handles are what defines the design of this box so it's

important to get the detail just right

Once I had the legs all marked out I headed over the bandsaw to cut them out

making sure I left the line

Even though this is a simple cut I took time to tape the cutoff back on instead

of just trying to hold the piece together it's just a little insurance to

be sure I wouldn't screw one up

once I had them all cut out it was off to the spindle sander to refine the

curve and sand them smooth

The bamboo I'm using is a stranded bamboo flooring leftover from a previous

job so I'm just upcycling it into some boxes

To get the bamboo flooring preped to be cut to size I ripped the tongue off

along the sides and ends

I set some stops up on the miter jig so I can alternate cutting the long and

short sides of the box. By doing this it allowed me to keep the board's in order

so the grain of the strands of the bamboo would wrap around the box.

It's just one of those subtle details that brings up the quality of a piece

How stranded bamboo is mad, is they compressed the strands of bamboo

together with a hard resin. This resin was really difficult to cut mortises in

with the domino. The piece would jump side to side while trying to cut it.

I built a jig to trap the bamboo in place and added stops to the left and

right to help locate the mortises. This worked a lot better than trying to hold

the board in place. Next I needed to cut the dado to hold the bottom. I stacked

the side pieces in order so I could keep track of the flow of the grain and not

get them mixed up

Since the bottom was going to hit the inside corner of the leg I set up my

keyed miter jig to cut a notch in the corner of each leg to accept the bottom.

A little better measuring could have solved this problem but I made it work.

The dado for the bottom went through the mortise for the Domino. So the bottom

wouldn't hit the Domino I just used the chisel to chop the Domino's in half so

the bottom would pass by it when assembled. Standard wood glue didn't stick

to the resin of flooring very well so I used some epoxy to glue the legs to

the sides. To get all the dominoes lined up with the legs, and all the sides put

together. I started my assembly process by creating little sub assemblies and

then I assembled those sub assemblies together.

Since the legs are an awkward shape to clamp I use some large rubber bands to

apply a little pressure while the glue dried. I also took care to apply blue

tape along the edges to protect the form from glue squeeze out. The flooring came

from the manufacturer pre finish so I didn't want to risk scratching that

finished just to get rid of the epoxy squeezed out.

While the glue is drying on the boxes I moved on to making the lids. I set up my

shop made panel raising jig, tilted the blade to an eye-pleasing angle, and cut

the edge profile out. I always cut the end grain first as it is more likely to

tear out and whit subsequent cut along the grain will remove any of that tear out.

I then set the plate back to 90 degrees and cut a rabbit on the bottom

of the lid so it would set a little inside the box and wouldn't slide off.

The tops and legs are finished with lacquer. I used an old stool with a

swivel top to make it easier to apply the finish.

Last thing to do is make the handles

I cut the general shape out on the bandsaw leaving the line. Then I made

a jig with some toggle clamps to hold the small parts safely while routing the

final shape with a pattern bit

For the curves on the underside of the handle I cut the bulk of the material

off at the bandsaw. Then I double stick tape some stops down on the spindle

sander and picked a spindle that was close to the radius I wanted and used it

to make the final shape

To attach the handle to the lid I just used a simple dowel, a little CA glue,

eyeballed what looks straight and installed the handle. Once the glue was

set it was strong enough for this little lid

For more infomation >> Building a Japanese Bamboo Box with Walnut and Cherry Accents - Duration: 12:04.

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DUG Insight: Build a 3D horizon from 2D data - Duration: 4:23.

We've picked this major unconformity located in the Browse basin on the North-West Shelf of Australia

Our project does not have any 3D data

so the horizon has been picked on available 2D

To get a better understanding of the geological environment

we would like to extrapolate the 2D picks to a 3D X/Y horizon

How do we do that?

Let's check the extents of this horizon

by double-clicking on the horizon in Control Panel

The extents show all the 2D lines this horizon has been picked on

We'd like to extrapolate the 2D horizon to a 3D X/Y horizon

In its current form, any interpolation will be constricted by the 2D survey

We need to translate the picked 2D points to either a 3D survey or to X/Y space

This is where the Regrid operation comes in

Regrid is a great tool

It can translate points from different surveys or XY space, or to a different spatial sampling

For this example, we'll translate the points from the 2D survey to X/Y

Display the 2D horizon in the Map View

and open Regrid under operations tab

Select XY for Survey

Insight will list the XY points and step used for the regrid

We're regridding a large regional horizon

horizon so I'll increase the step to 25m

depending on data, this could just as easily be 100m or 200m

Constrain the area using the polygons AOI

Do not select Interpolate here

as this is for minor interpolation only

We'll conduct our interpolation in the next stage

Click Regrid

Insight will run the regrid

Select Save as new horizon when the regrid has completed

You can see the new horizon only falls within the AOI polygon

selected during Regrid

Let's go back to horizon configuration

and check the extents of the new horizon

It's now on XY only

It's time to interpolate/extrapolate the horizon

as it is no longer constrained by the 2D survey

Under operations, choose the interpolate/extrapolate option

This operation is used to either interpolate data between available points

or to extrapolate the horizon to an area of interest

In this example, we're going to extrapolate our horizon to our AOI polygon

To extrapolate, select the extrapolate tick box

Insight will extrapolate the existing data to the full AOI

specified under Constraints > Area

Insight uses a weighting of Natural Neighbour and Inverse Distance algorithms to interpolate a horizon

Spreading power is the natural neighbour weighting

Smoothing power is the inverse distance weighting

A spreading power of 1 and a smoothing power of 0 (the default) is pure natural neighbour interpolation

A spreading power of 0 and a smoothing power of 1 is pure inverse-distance weighted

A spreading power of 0 and a smoothing power of 2 is inverse-distance squared interpolation

To create a more geologically coherent horizon

set the strike direction under direction and give the strike/dip a weighting

We'll use the defaults for now

Extra constraints such as stopping at faults or fault polygons

can be added to the operation. Click Extrapolate

Once complete you have three options

Discard, Replace this Horizon or Save as a New Horizon

We'll save as a new horizon so we still have a copy of the original 2D horizon

Insight automatically names the horizon

it keeps the old name and adds (extrap) to the end

Insight keeps the operation history on this horizon

Open Horizon Configuration and check out Notes

Very handy for later!

Look out for our other useful tips and tricks

on horizon clean-up operations

such as horizon smoothing and derivative filter

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