Thứ Bảy, 30 tháng 6, 2018

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Hi! Purple Oranji here.

Today I'm going to play with lasers and make a security alarm for my room

In another video, I made an electronic door lock

out of Mindstorms LEGO

So if you haven't seen it you can check it out here, or here

I think everyone occasionally wants to keep a nosy sibling

or parent out of their room

Building on what I learned on that project

I wanted to make something more complex

So I wanted to make an alarm that would trigger

when someone tries to sneak in

Today I'll show you how I made my own laser

PEW PEW PEW

security alarm out of LEGO Mindstorms

For this project I'll be using a Lego Mindstorms EV3 brick

Mirror tiles

A red laser diode

breadboards

well a breadboard

coin battery and its holder

pin wires

As always I'll have deatiled links in the description

But first, a warning

lasers can be really dangerous so remember to be cautious and always use

the right safety glasses

so let's begin

Wow! Everything is so blue

First I started with testing the laser diode

I connected the diode to my breadboard

I tested to make sure that everything worked

I used a red 5 milli watt laser diode for this project

because is relatively low cost

and are safer than the other colors

I used a breadboard so that we can quickly test and change things as needed

I didn't spend too much time on making this look nice

because it was just a prototype

for future versions

I would like to make a better housing

next it's on to the laser platform

because small vibrations could cause the aim of the laser to be off

I made a platform out of LEGO

to hold the laser steady and also used for aiming

I used lego Digital Designer

to make and create the instructions

that I needed to build it in real life

with the laser base built

All I have to do is add the laser and test it out

For the coding, I started off by making a simplest looping alarm

once I had that, I added other enhancements

like a countdown

warning messages and an information display

I created a custom block for the countdown

so that I could easily reuse it in different places if needed

With everything loaded into the EV3

it's time to test it out

how the alarm works is by reading the light intensity

of the laser with the color sensor

the code will wait until there is a change in intensity

when the intensity changes

the alarm will trigger

I can press a button on the top

to stop and re-arm the alarm so it's ready again

Now that system works

it's time to install it somewhere fun

I decided to install it in the doorway of my room

anyone the breaks beam will trigger the alarm

Well thats it

My very own laser alarm system for my room

this is only the first version

there are many other things I can add to make it better

but it was still fun figuring out how it all worked

If you like this video, please give me a like and subscribe to my channel

PURPLE ORANJI

also click the little bell icon to get a reminder of my new videos

Well, thats all for now

see you next time

Bye!!!

For more infomation >> HOW TO MAKE - A LEGO Laser Alarm - Duration: 3:49.

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Building a Cup Waterer for Ducks - Duration: 3:31.

the ducklings are taking a nap I've got these little drinker cups so the way it

works is you know what duck will hit this little yellow ball and that will

release some water and the water will fill up in this orange cup so I'm gonna

try to make this be one solution the way I'm gonna do it is I'm gonna stick them

into this bucket here

looking pretty good

so you remember how I hit a deer with my car the other day well after that I

ended up selling it and when I sold it I ended up keeping the floor mats they're

nice and rubbery so I'm gonna use these as a little mat with the water bucket on

if we close up the water

so yes let's I guess how this new duck water is working hopefully that's a good

sign and hopefully this is something that they can use on a regular basis so

I just gave the duckling some kale and it caused an absolute feeding frenzy I

mean look at this they're going nuts they're playing kale rugby look at home

do like play kale rugby it's ridiculous so funny and there's a massive piece

there and they're like we can't quite figure out

For more infomation >> Building a Cup Waterer for Ducks - Duration: 3:31.

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How to Build an Ant Nest | Natural Formicarium - Duration: 28:03.

Hi guys, my name's Jordan, and in this video, we're going to be creating some naturalistic

formicaria.

Containing soil, plants, and other crucial organisms.

Basically, mini ecosystems, perfectly catered for the keeping of ants.

To start off, you're going to need an enclosure of some sort.

To give you guys some options, I'm going with 3 distinctive styles.

The first, one our medium sized, 'Ants Australia' Outworlds, made of acrylic.

The second, a tall glass jar.

And thirdly, a 4-foot-long, glass fish tank.

I prefer enclosures with flat sides, and avoid ones which have

rounded sides, like this this cylindrical jar.

As viewing through, results in visual distortion, making it hard to observe anything inside

in great detail.

Much like viewing ants within test tube setups.

But I'm going to try it out, just for the sake of variety.

The size of enclosure you go for should depend on the size of your ant colony, and how much

growing room they'll need over time.

Typically, the larger the setup, the better.

Although, just keep in mind, the larger you go, the more you'll need to invest into

materials and general maintenance.

Once you've picked an enclosure which best suits your needs, we're going to start layering

in our substrate.

What we'll first need to do, is create a drainage layer.

I'm creating mine by laying down some small stones.

Before filling up one of our outworlds, I'm going to need to seal off the entrance port.

To do this, I'm simply unscrewing the front panel and replacing it with a solid one.

Which comes included in the kit.

All ready to go.

Try to lay the stones down evenly, just a few centimeters high is plenty.

A great alternative to stones are clay balls.

Clay is much lighter than rock, making it much more suitable for larger setups.

As it'll make them a little easier to transport later on, if need be.

This drainage layer will help prevent your soil, which we'll be adding in later on,

from becoming water-logged.

Which can cause the substrate to rot, thus, providing ideal conditions for harmful bacteria

and fungi to thrive.

So the idea is that any excess water in your setup, will seep down through the substrate

above, and settle within the small gaps between all the rocks, or clay, below.

Allowing the soil to sufficiently drain and dry out.

Next, what we need to do is cover over your drainage layer.

This is to prevent the soil above from entering, and thus, inhibiting its effectiveness.

For this large setup, I'm using some shade cloth which has been cut to shape.

Some fine window screen would work great for this too.

Or for a more natural approach, a carpet of moss or some coconut husk acts as excellent

alternative.

Not only will it filter out the soil, but it will absorb up any excess moisture too.

For my smaller setups here, I'm going with some coconut husk.

Make sure you've covered the entire surface area so there aren't any gaps.

Next step, we're adding in a layer of charcoal.

When water passes down through this layer, and into the drainage layer below, the charcoal

helps purify it.

It acts like a sponge, absorbing in the water, and neutralizing certain toxins within.

Lessening the chance of harmful microbes building up.

Just make sure the charcoal you use doesn't have any added chemicals.

Finally, it's time to add in some soil.

For these two, I'm adding in some potting mix, specially design for terraria.

And for the fish tank, just some soil from the back yard.

What sort of substrate you go for should depend on what your ants like.

Some species might prefer rather dense and sandy soil, whereas others, might prefer more

of a loose, bark-like substrate.

So, do a bit of research.

Go outside and have a look at what sort of substrate the particular species you intend

on housing are usually found in.

You can also do some experimenting by filling up one side of your setup with one type of

substrate, and the other with something different.

And simply observe which side the ants prefer.

You'll want to add in a decent layer of substrate, to give the ants plenty of room

for constructing their tunnels and chambers.

And if you're going to be adding in some plants, just make sure you leave enough vertical

space for them to grow in.

You'll notice I'm not layering the soil flat, like I did in the previous stages.

Instead, I'm sloping the surface downwards towards the front, and creating subtle hills

and valleys.

This gives the ants an increased amount of surface area to explore and gives the setup

some added dimension too.

Next, comes the fun part.

The decorating.

For this setup, I'm first adding in some plants.

You'll need to carefully consider which plants will best suit your particular setup,

and the ants which will inhabit it.

For example, it wouldn't be a good idea to pick water loving plants when you're

housing an ant species which prefers relatively dry conditions.

As it may be quite tricky trying to please them both.

And other things to consider would be the soil conditions – does the soil you picked

out for the ants, also suit the plants?

And of course, lighting – how much, and what sort of light, do the plants require?

Will they get enough light naturally from a nearby window?

Or might they need artificial lighting?

For my outworld setup, I haven't got a whole lot of vertical space to work with.

So I've picked some low growing plants, which will, in time, entirety carpet the surface.

Tallest plants to the back is best.

And then, I'm just adding in some small rocks, sticks, and a gumnut.

And finally, filling in any remaining gaps with a bit of coconut husk.

For my jar setup, I'm keeping things super basic.

All I'm doing is simply placing in some seeds, which in about a week or two, will

begin to germinate and spring to life.

These seeds are from an easy to grow herb, known as peppermint.

So not only will this add some greenery to the setup, but it will also give off a pleasant,

minty aroma, and of course, tastes great too.

And finally, for my large tank setup, I've added in some driftwood, and plenty of rocks

too.

I've found ants often love nesting directly beneath solid surfaces, such as these, utilizing

them as a sturdy ceiling for their homes.

So, hopefully this will make mine feel right at home.

If the ants you're going to be housing are a wood dwelling species, like 'Carpenter

Ants', then some small branches would be much appreciated for them.

And to liven up the setup, I've also added in some small tussocks of grass,

and some beautifully vibrant mosses.

And for the finishing touch, a thin layer of red sand, found naturally throughout central

Australia.

I think it gives the setup some great contrast.

Once you're happy with your design, it's time to hydrate.

Regular tap water is fine for this.

Although, you're probably best using rain or distilled water.

So as to avoid adding in any unwanted chemicals.

How much, and how often you water should depend on the size of your setup, it's evaporation

rates, and what sort of humidity levels your inhabitants require.

I highly recommend placing in a hygrometer, so you can accurately gauge these levels.

I've secured one on the inside of my jar setup just using some blu tack, like so.

You might want to also leave some dry patches throughout the setup, giving the ants a moisture

gradient to work with.

If you're using one of our outworlds, just be aware that they aren't water tight.

So, if you flood one, the water will slowly leak out from the bottom.

I'm putting a little potting tray beneath mine, so as to protect the surface of the

table beneath.

This leakage, while seemly impractical, is actually quite a good thing.

As it allows for improved drainage.

Reducing the chances of harmful bacteria and fungi from developing, and catering better for arid dwelling

ant species, and plants like succulents, which do best when their roots periodically dry

out.

Plus, if you fill your tray up with water, it can act like a moat.

Discouraging the ants from escaping, and foreign ants from invading.

However, the most effective way to escape proof your setup, and prevent wild ants from

invading, would be to apply a barrier of PTFE all around the

upper inner edges of your enclosure.

Before you apply this liquid, make sure you clear the surface area of any dust and moisture.

For my outworld setup, I'm simply coating the inner edges, bordering the lid, using

a cotton cue tip, like so.

Once this liquid dries, the area becomes super slippery, making it very difficult for ants

to pass over it, without losing their grip, and falling back down to the bottom.

For the jar setup, normally, I would coat this area here.

However, the ants I'm going to be housing are incapable of climbing up smooth surfaces,

like plastic and glass.

So, no fluon required.

And lastly for the fish tank, a barrier around this area would be sufficient for containing

most ant species.

Although, some ants, who are a little more adept at climbing, will likely have no troubles

scaling up the silicone sealant in the corners.

Silicone isn't as smooth a surface as the glass, and so, even when it's coated in

fluon, it proves to create weak points in the barrier.

So for my setup, I'm not taking any chances, instead, I'm utilizing one of our custom

designed, laser cut, acrylic lids, which has been secured on with some aquarium safe silicone.

The lid has a large opening on either side, the only way in, and out.

Once the inner edges of which are coated with fluon, the ants would

need to walk upside down over the barrier, definitely not an easy task.

The lids are also lined with thousands of tiny holes for ventilation.

Much like the sliding lids featured on our outworlds.

If you wanted to make one of these yourself, you could get a sheet of acrylic and cut it

to shape using a specialized blade.

For extra security, a tight-fitting lid is definitely a great option.

Just be aware that closing off your enclosure will reduce evaporation rates and increase

the humidity levels within.

So, you won't need to hydrate the setup nearly as often.

This high humidity may also result in condensation build up, and thus, render your fluon barrier

ineffective.

So, it's a good idea to use a lid which offers plenty of ventilation, like these ones.

Alright, almost done.

Next, we're adding in a cleanup crew.

Some helpful bugs, in the form of springtails and isopods.

These bugs will actively consume any organic matter, like dead leaves and fungi.

And then, excrete them out as fertilizer, cleansing and enriching the soil.

You'll just have to be a little bit careful with the bugs you choose, however.

In some cases, the ants might see them as food, and relentlessly seek out and attack

them.

I've found most ant species don't really go after springtails.

I think it's because they're far too small and agile to be worth the effort in catching.

So I'm adding in a bunch to mine.

And another great thing about springtails is they're very easy to raise.

Here's a culture I started a few months back, just from a couple of hundred individuals.

Now, they must be well into the tens of thousands strong.

Now the cleanup crew's in, we're finally ready to add in some ants!

For my outworld setup, I'm going for a young colony of Strobe Ants (Opisthopsis sp.)

Who are housed in a tubs and tubes setup.

I'm simply placing their tube straight in, like so.

For the jar setup, I'm introducing a small colony of Green-headed Ants (Rhytidoponera sp.).

Also, from a test tube setup, one which isn't looking so great.

You can see it's starting to get a little moldy.

So they're more than ready to be moved out.

Again, I'm just placing the tube directly into the enclosure.

And finally, for my fish tank, I'm introducing a colony of Australia's iconic, Giant Bull

Ants (Myrmecia pyriformis), which I currently have housed within a couple of ytong nests,

hooked up to one of our large sized outworlds.

This species of ant is one of the largest in world.

With workers measuring in at around 30mm in length, and the queens even larger still.

And as you can see, this colony's quite large too.

They currently have around 40 workers present, and there's lots more on the way.

Just look at all that brood.

I love how they've neatly organized them based upon what level of development they're at.

First you've got the eggs…the larvae…and finally, the pupae.

So to introduce these guys, using light, I've managed to move them all into this single

nest, and from here, I'm simply placing them into the tank, and setting them free.

To entice the ants to move out of their old nests, there's a few things you can do.

Firstly, try poking some shallow holes into the soil, to save the ants some digging.

Ants are all about efficiency, so offering them a head start acts as a great incentive

for them to move in.

Also, in this way, you can essentially dictate the general area the ants will end up nesting in.

For example, you might want them closer towards the front, so you can potentially get a better

view of their underground activity.

Additionally, you can use some heat to entice the ants further.

Using a heating mat or cable.

For my Big-headed ant setup, which has undergone quite the re-scape since featured last, I'm

currently using a heat mat which I've secured onto the front.

As you can see, the ants love nesting right up against it, offering an excellent view

of their activity.

Alternatively, if you're running lights over your setup, or just other appliances

nearby, you can utilize the heat radiating from their power plugs.

Here's a setup we created a few months back, home to a large colony of Golden-tailed Sugar ants.

You can see they really appreciate the warmth in which these power packs provide.

Maneuvering the majority of their brood within clear view, right up against the glass.

I've done the same thing for the Bull Ants too, so hopefully I get some similar results.

You can also try feeding the ants.

Only some small portions, just so the ants get a taste of the food, encouraging them

to seek out more, thus, inadvertently, getting them to explore and become more comfortable

in their new environment.

Here, I'm offering the bull ants some honey, served in an acorn cupule, which acts a neat-little,

natural, feeding dish.

And of course, exposing the ants to light is always a good way to get them moving.

Just make sure they're not exposed to direct sunlight or overly hot lights, as this may

cause the ants to overheat, and or, result in excessive condensation build up within

their nest, which could potentially drown the ants.

In my case, it wasn't long before the strobe ants began exploring their new environment.

Notice these ants move in a rather jittery fashion?

It's almost like you're watching them at 10 frames per second.

Hence their common name of "strobe ant".

Their eyes are also quite large, and unusually, positioned towards the back of their heads.

Allowing them almost a 360-degree field of view.

Very unique ants for sure.

The reason I picked strobe ants for this particular setup, is because they're from up north

in Queensland, and so, are well suited to the high humidity levels, in which this enclosure

provides.

Shout out to Eli over at Ant Invasion for sending us these guys.

I highly recommend checking out his YouTube channel.

I'll leave the link the description below.

After a couple of weeks, they're still yet move out from their test tube.

Young ant colonies, with only a few workers present, tend to be quite hesitant to abandon

their familiar home for a new one.

Especially since it's been working so well for them for so long.

So, I may be waiting quite a while before these guys build up the courage to move.

So, when moving ants, a little patience may be needed, as is often the case when it comes

to ant keeping.

As for the green-heads on the other hand, as soon as I placed them in, the workers poured

out, and immediately began burrowing into the soil right by the entrance of their tube.

Their hard work quickly drew the attention of the other inhabitants, the isopods and

springtails.

They felt the ants' newly dug chamber was the perfect spot to seek shelter from the

harsh filming lights above, and opportunistically squeezed themselves in.

And pretty soon, the queen came along to join the party too.

The ants weren't too happy with the presence of the isopods, eventually driving them off

with a quick succession of bites.

But they weren't at all fussed with the spring tails.

The two tend to get along quite well.

Which seems to be a common theme with Green-headed ants.

Whenever I uncover a wild nest, I almost always see an abundance of springtails living happily

amongst them.

As you can imagine, these Green-headed Ants get their name from their shimmering green

colouration.

But they're incredibly iridescent.

Ranging from green, to red, to purple, and even gold.

Very pretty looking ants.

For the Bull Ants, same as the green-heads, they started digging in almost immediately.

Favoring the underside of this small rock, right beside their nest.

And eventually, after perhaps discovering the warmth of the power plugs, started excavating

a little higher up too.

Beneath this piece of wood, and amongst the rocks above.

Fast forward about 12 hours later, and they'd completely moved in.

Leaving not so much as a single egg behind.

Removing their old nest revealed just how busy the ants had been.

Just look at all that uplifted soil.

Here, you can see the before and after.

It's amazing just how productive ants can be.

So what do you guys think of these naturalistic setups?

Aesthetically speaking, it's pretty hard to beat something like this, the greenery

really livens up a room.

And arguably, when they're done right, I think they're one of the most effective

ways to keep ants too.

As they allow the ants to dig, expand, and fine-tune their nest, however they see fit.

Making them a perfect environment for raising just a single queen, all the way up to a mature

colony, thousands of workers strong.

They really are designed to go the distance.

Take my Big-headed ant colony for example.

These guys have been living in this same natural setup for over 2 years now.

And it's pretty safe to say, they're doing very well.

It's always a good sign you've got a thriving colony when they begin producing winged reproductive

ants.

Especially, when they come out in the thousands strong.

Plus, you won't be just observing the growth of the ant colony, but the growth of plants

too.

Here's my jar setup a few weeks on.

You can see those peppermint seeds I sprinkled in have finally begun to germinate.

Aren't they just adorable?

There's a lot less maintenance involved with these setups too.

In a more traditional setup, any garbage the ants produce will eventually need to be cleaned

out by the keeper.

But with a naturalistic setup, organisms in the soil slowly decompose such waste.

So other than keeping the plants trimmed and hydrated, there's really very little extra

work that needs to be done.

Of course, there are some downsides.

You likely won't be able to get as clear a view of all the ants' nesting activities

as you would within a more traditional setup.

But for some, watching the ants come up to forage, and maybe occasionally seeing some

tunnels and chambers up against the sides, is more than enough.

If you want to stay updated on how these colonies progress, make sure you subscribe this channel.

We've got a lot of ants we've still yet to show you guys, and it'll take a long

while before we get through them all.

If you're not the patient type, however, I highly recommend following us on Instagram.

Here we post daily stories on everything ants!

Whether it be quick updates on our colonies, or behind the scenes on future projects.

Alright, now onto our regular contest where we giveaway one of our specially built formicaria.

In last video's contest I asked, "How has your interest in ants impacted you as

a person?"

For me, as you can imagine, ants have made quite big impact.

From a young age, I've always had a deep interest in the natural world, especially

in the small creatures, which often go unnoticed, and so, was naturally drawn to ants.

Later in life, I learned of the joys of keeping and studying ants, and soon started sharing

these findings with you guys, in the form of videos like these.

And eventually, I founded our website and online store, for all things ant keeping,

which in turn, allowed me to meet and learn from some amazing people, and open myself

up to new opportunities, of which I never expected to have, like doing talks for schools,

and even appearing on Australian television.

All thanks to ants!

But of course, none of these things would have been possible without you guys and your

incredible support throughout the years.

You've really driven me to pursue my passion, and for that I'm incredibly grateful.

So thank you guys so much!

So the winner of the contest is…Lemonhole 123 who responded, "Keeping ants has changed

my life for the better as it has shown me the beauty of nature and also the ugly side

too.

This has formed an ongoing love for the outdoors and for animals of all varieties.

I have started to find myself stopping all my friends from stepping on the ants just

for the beauty of all these creatures big and small".

So, congratulations Lemonhole, with this entry, you've just won yourself one of our size

1 ytong nests.

Nowadays, it seems a lot of people simply neglect the beautiful intricacies of nature.

A state of mind, us humans, really must change, now more than ever before.

So, it's really refreshing to hear that you, and many other entrants for this contest,

have now become more attuned to nature thanks to ants.

For our next videos contest, to celebrate the release of our new purpose build outworlds,

we're going to be giving one away.

To enter, simply answer the following, "What made you want to keep ants?"

If you're currently not keeping ants, "Why not?"

So, post your answer in the comment section below.

We'll pick out a single comment and announce them as the winner in our next video.

As always thanks for watching this video, and I hope you enjoyed.

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