hey everybody welcome back to another nature's always right episode today I'm
gonna be showing you how I built my bootstrap farmer greenhouse this is a 10
foot by 20 foot greenhouse all the parts and plastic and the kit is from
bootstrap farmer com if you don't know who they are they're one of my favorite
farm suppliers and I originally found them because of their 1020 trains they
have the best 1020 phrases that are super strong I just love them so today
I'm gonna be showing you guys how I put this together the different trials and
tribulations I had putting it together and it's a pretty detailed video so if
you're building a greenhouse yourself I hope that you'll be able to take a few
things away not make as many mistakes as I did and you know build the best
possible greenhouse that you can so I'm just going to show you really quickly
the different features of it and then we'll get right into the building
from beginning to end so the reason I got this greenhouse is because it's
gonna allow me to really improve my farm I'm gonna be able to get seedlings out
really quick much earlier in the spring and summer my seedings will germinate at
a much higher percentage which is allowing me to drop less seed in my soil
blocks which keeps me from having to thin them as much I'll be able to do
micro greens in here year-round and control the temperatures I'm going to be
experimenting with doing some grow bags and selling nursery plants in them it's
a great place where I can store a lot of different things and I've even got a lot
more room in here that I can keep developing you can see I've got a lot of
vertical space still that I could fill in with some different stuff so
something else that's really cool about these greenhouses that they're pretty
modular this is 10 foot by 20 foot you can make these as long as
you want you just need more hoops and you can make it a hundred foot long if
you want so they're really versatile you don't have to use this as a seedling area
many people use greenhouses for their field beds as well and I'm gonna be
showing you guys how I update this thing over the years and all the different
ways that I'm going to be using it I'll be making a lot of different videos in
here to help you guys figure out the best way is to use the greenhouse and I
really believe that having a greenhouse on a farm even a small farm is a real
necessity because it just gives you that huge advantage to get ahead of the
season and to just have your germination perfect the ability to control
temperature and climate is gigantic there's just going to give you a huge
advantage for your farm also it helps you to diversify so microgreens are a
big part of small farming in my opinion it allows you to diversify your crops
make it a little bit less risky if something in the field fails and you
know microgreens are pumping out every cent 7 to 10 days generating revenue for
your business so I'm really excited to add on that component to my business and
show you guys kind of the journey that I go through with it please put any
comments or questions or anything down in the comments and this is the first
greenhouse that I've ever built so I just want you guys to have confidence
that if you've never done something like this you can do it get some help from
your friends and family you know don't don't be scared to try to pull something
off like this you can do it yourself - basically all my construction experience
and my life was done on most of it was done on this farm building all of these
things for the first time so I just want to give you the confidence that you can
do this too
so because I'm always on the mindset of keep it mobile you know I'm not gonna be
on this land forever and I need to think you know to do it as cheaply as possible
and something that's not gonna leave a big mess when I leave and I kind of had
the idea to maybe you know lay out some pebbles so it helped the drainage and
help it to make it easily level and if I needed to make any adjustments with
tables and stuff I could just push the rocks out of the way and make it higher
stuff for myself but I'm not gonna go to that extra expense in trouble this is
flat enough that it's gonna be okay and I can make little adjustments inside
of the greenhouse I need to so we're just snugging in the landscaping cloth
and then we're using some land scape staples to hold it down into the ground
all right so the landscape fabric is all laid out and the ground is fairly flat
underneath so the very next step is to lay out these ground posts here I got
the ones that that are pre-drilled from bootstrap so and I already made my mark
so I made a mark at two feet and this is gonna be the bottom so this bottom piece
will be pounded into the ground and the next step after that is we got to make
it very level just be using a two-foot level while we're pounding it in and
then to do the final leveling we're gonna be using a plumb line and I'll
show you guys how to do that okay so we finally got the first four places where
the posts are gonna go square and when you're making something square all the
outer perimeter measurements need to be exact and then both diagonal
measurements need to be exact and that's the trickiest part is getting those
diagonal measurements to be correct so what we figured out worked really well
was to get two of them perfect so you know exactly six inches off the fence I
exactly 10 inches and then to get the right 90-degree angle you just keep
adjusting these two flags and measuring the diagonal and that helped us to
really get the right measurements when we were moving all four of them you can
never get the right measurement but if you keep two of them perfect and then go
everything off that that seemed to work really well so now the next step is we
need to make holes in this fabric for our ground posts and the best way to do
that for landscaping fabric is to burn it so that it just melts it and there's
no fraying edges like you're seeing here so I'm gonna take my propane tank and my
torch and I've got a video all about this and how I use it for weeding so I
just drilled a one and three-quarter inch hole put it over the top of the
flag and then I'm just gonna burn it really quickly
yeah my god quick so in order to not smash the pipe this thing is called a
ground post driver so just goes in there you hit that instead of the actual post
and that it stays intact we've got the poles driven in a little bit of the way
and now we got to make sure the level is good so you want to measure on both
sides make sure that it's level and as he's pounding and I'm gonna try to hold
it in place since this is already low level I want to make sure that these
holes for the hip boards are running this way the bottom boards have the
screws running this way now let's say let the bubble you know is way over to
the side and you needed it to move over a really easy way to do it if the pipe
isn't that far down to the ground you could just move it by hand but once it's
further down into the ground it's - you can't actually make it budge so the
technique that works good is as the person's hitting it you're applying
pressure in the direction that you need it to move to become more level and then
let them hit it and it'll slowly move it each hit so now that we've got our four
main posts in the next step is to put in the intermediary posts in between so to
do that we're gonna use a chalk line and that's just going to help give us a
straight line to give us a exact location for the next poles the other
thing that we really need to do correctly is these poles should be
around two feet off of the ground and that's why we made those marks initially
but that's just kind of a guide because of course the ground is a completely
level so what we're gonna do as per the
recommendation from Brandon at bootstrap and their awesome video that shows how
to build this what we'll do is we'll pound in another secondary post right
here that's gonna run parallel to these posts and we'll tie a string to it at
the two foot mark and then run a line level across that so that when the lines
running across we'll be able to pound in each of these Stakes at the same height
regardless of the ground level our strategy is to put the talk line down
pound in the poles partially then get more super exact two foot level pound
the poles the rest of the way and then we're ready for the next step which is
bending hoops
so here's our chalk line lined up we've got one on each side so now what we're
gonna do is take our measurements every four feet from this post and mark out
where those gonna go on each side then we can take measurements from each point
where the posts should go and we should be getting 10 feet at that measurement
and we should end up equidistance from this post to the end post and that's how
we'll know if we laid this out straight and correct then we can move on to the
final step which is leveling the z-axis of these so that they're 2 feet off the
ground ok so we've got all the poles hammered in there in the right distance
from each other we checked all the measurements they're 10 feet across and
all that they're four foot distance from each other ok so here's how you set up
this line so you're gonna want to make your 2 foot mark at wherever your
highest point pole is so for us this is the highest point and it kind of slopes
down this way we made a Sharpie mark at two feet on both of the poles we put the
string across and then laid out the level the plane where we're gonna be
pounding down these posts needs to be at the same level and that's why we're
creating the string here so the thing is the ground here is lower than that other
post so even though we're putting it at two feet at that first mark it's not
actually level so here that's the original two-foot mark and here's the
correction mark I just kept moving the string up my dad watched the level and I
just kept moving the string up until it became level and now we know that this
string is now a level plane and we can pound down our stakes to match the
string at two feet the reason that we're creating this flat plane is that so the
roof line is level otherwise if we didn't do this the roof would be sloped
down in this direction okay so as you can see they're basically at the same
plane it looks like they're on alignment except I think this one it's probably
about a half an inch too far this way but I think what the tolerances on this
you know there's a little bit of give and all that so it should not be a
problem but we'll find out at the end of course that looks so good that's perfect
check that out we get it perfect and now the next step is start bending hoops
buying the top rail pieces
so besides the cost of the kit from bootstrap you're going to need to get
some things at the hinges some self-tapping screws to connect all the
hoos some carriage bolts some 2.5 inch wood screws and then of course the most
important piece is top-line fence post here and this is one in 3/8 inch 10-foot
long and these that we Bend into hoops with the hoop barb and then place into
these main posts here so I think I spent about another $240 on all the other
accessories in addition to the cost of the kit so the total price comes out to
about fourteen or fifteen hundred I think for the ten by twenty greenhouse
if you get the ground post and the kit with all of the the wrap up sides and
everything okay so now it's time to bend our top bars here and the first thing
that you do is just make a nine inch mark off of the I guess this is male end
we're doing it this way so that we in so that we're not bending this piece in
correctly and it's all very even I used a piece of wood just make it all flush
really easier for me and what I'm gonna do is mark nine inches since I made them
all flush like that I'm just going to run my Sharpie all across here
just has a shortcut and now let's take it over to the hoop endure yeah so this
is my first one I've ever did I've ever done and I think I put maybe too much
curve near the end so I think what's happening in here is there's just a
little bit too much curve down at the end of the pipe here so down this at
this Park down here it needs to be a little bit more straight not so much
angle into it ok so now that I've made a few mistakes and I made some hoops that
are really good let me explain the best way to do this so first you're just
gonna line up your mark the 9 inch mark that we made and when you pull back
obviously make sure it's in the seam pull it back we're not gonna go all the
way flush with the seam we're just gonna stop there it needs to be a much softer
Bend when I'm making my low tunnel hoops I do a full harder Bend but with this
you don't want to because of the ground PO you're gonna get forward 1.5 feet 18
inches do a bunch of gradual bends and when it gets too hard you'll want your
bar you and then the last Bend you want to leave a good 1.5 feet at the end I
think and then leaving that lasts a little bit helps the legs be straighter
at the end for going into the poles
so now you see how the the hoop goes wide and out and then it kind of flares
out a little bit that's more what we're looking for and in the bottom like two
and a half feet really doesn't have any bend in it and that's what I found works
the best so we're going to say
so because the ground is so wet right now and we already screwed this pull-up
we took it out hammered it back in
prevent it from bowing out so what we found works really good is my dad gets
it into his side gets it to the 9 inch mark and then I get my side and then
bend it and shove it in definitely pull it towards you don't push it because if
there's a lot of tension even if I slip it's gonna hit me really hard this is
definitely the safest way and now as I'm bending it back it's having a much
straighter position whereas before when I before I fix the bend this would be
bending inwards more just wouldn't work
there we go so it still has good tension but not so much that I'm just like
standing here like absolutely struggling to get it in this is really nice so that
was the fix ok so you know it's not completely perfect but yeah it's good
enough that it's gonna work really well and you know to prevent that you want to
make sure that you're bending your bars super consistently each time at the same
exact point and that's just going to give you the best hoops but you know
check that out it's is the first screen house that we've ever built so I don't
know I'm pretty happy once we get it all built together I'll really know how you
know how perfect it needs to be but I thought we've got everything perfectly
aligned and in there now we're gonna be connecting the ground post to our hoops
and we're using the 5/16 screws that bootstrap gave us so we're using a 5/16
drill bit going through throwing the bolt in
okay so now what we're doing is putting down the baseboards for the baseboards
you can use one by sixes all the different parts and pieces I'm just
gonna ask you to refer to the bootstrap for more instructions but I use just
some leftover fence posts just like those right there I took them off on
another section of fence and just attaching them here these are also gonna
be used for the hip boards as well just trying to save money and recycle some
things then I went out and I bought some three inch hex screws or hex bolts you
could use carriage bolts as well when I make sure that the the board is flush
with the end because this is where the headboard will be and we need to have
that be able to fit in there so it's flush on the ends where the boards join
you just need to cut out another little piece of wood join them together and go
all the way down not sure what these trusts things I don't have any what they
call these but that connect the top bar here to the hoop and the rounded side
will go over the bars and that's go across the bottom as you can see we put
on the the front one and the back ones first threaded it in then mounted these
over the top of them depending on how well you bent your hoops it came out
pretty straight there's a little bit of crookedness into it but really good it's
gonna add that extra support that we needed and so now the last thing before
we completely cinch down those nuts up there we need to make sure that the
distance from hoop to hoop is four feet and that'll just ensure that everything
is equidistant and no no part of the structures receiving extra stress and it
should be so getting it more perfect I think is more it's more important for
people that are going to deal with high winds or crazy weather snow and things
like that if you're in a place like me that's gonna be a little more protected
then I think the perfection isn't as necessary but we're doing the best that
we can to get this as dialed in as possible so what I'm doing is I'm
measuring three feet off of the and I'm making a mark that's where the
three-foot mark is now what we did to save time since our border 7-inch seven
half-inch is wide we seem to find the halfway point which is 3.75 inches so if
I just subtract subtract three point seven five inches from 36 that's going
to give me the bottom of the board the board will sit on here like this now we
also need to drill into this pole so we can attach our carriage bolts and attach
the board so the center of the board at 30 to 36 feet that's where our railing
is gonna be for the wiggle wire so we don't want to put a bolt there so what I
did is this measured about an inch and a half above and that's gonna be where our
carriage bolt will go through so I'm gonna do that for each one I'm measuring
up thirty 33 point seven five inches making my mark making a little slot for
my dad to drill and moving down the line then we're gonna come back line up our
board with our line our bottom mark line drill through the wood and then attach
it with the carriage bolt so I'm just putting a small indentation with a very
small drill bit to make it a lot easier for my dad to come in with the big 5/16
drill bit and then go all the way through
okay so as you can see the boards are not completely straight some of that's
gonna be fixed once we put the rail in there it'll pull it out and make it more
straight this side looks good enough that I don't really need to adjust
anything but here on this side you can see there's a major indentation there
and that's because those two hoops for whatever reason are just inwards a
little bit more you know when I put these poles in they blew outwards a
little bit more so just didn't come out completely perfect so you want to make
sure to double check all their sense from the hoop that they're coming out
about the same but it's not be a problem here's my idea to fix it so since I've
got some extra screw here I'm just gonna push it out just in this one section and
I'll just use like a piece of wood just like this and fit it in there and then
that spacer now you can see straightened it out a bunch and then the rail itself
will help to straighten it out even more not perfect but I think it's gonna be
good enough to work okay now for attaching the side rails it's really
easy I'm using some number 8 1/2 inch self tapping screws for this I've used
half-inch screws for all the metal connecting so for this you want to keep
it basically level what I did at the ends is I measure two four inches and
then match it up to there and then I can basically just eyeball the rest that's
why I'm doing this I start with one that I've measured and then I just matched
two it's pretty easy now it's also nice because I've used these carriage bolts I
use hex bolts this is really soft wood so I was able to sync the bolts in
so it's just out of the way of the rail system altogether so one thing that I
would do differently that I want to mention about these channels when you're
cutting them leave them a bit short because as you can see when you take it
all the way to the edge of the wood here you know and you're making it tight it
can really scrape and cut into the plastic so I was one little mistake that
I I made so next time I'm gonna cut the channel slightly shorter so here I've
got my 3/4 inch conduit laid out and bootstrap farmer gives you these
couplers that connect them together so you use some self-tapping screws like
this to combine them I'm gonna let it run you know to three inches beyond the
back end of the greenhouse then on this side it needs to actually extend and we
need to extend it about a foot beyond the greenhouse because the crank and
everything is gonna be right here cranking up the greenhouse up and down
so I bought four of these three quarter-inch EMT conduit and I bought
one extra so that I could cut it for my extensions and for the guide rail that
I'm also gonna be making so I figured about a foot extension on each side and
then four feet for each guide rail and that'll be it so after making that one
foot piece I just need to drill a hole here so that this will fit inside in the
bootstrap video he's just a cut between 3/4 and 1 inch yeah so you want to cut
in between the 3/4 and 1 inch mark those put a mark here ok so now we got our
extension pieces that are going to be able to fit into the crank so now I'm
going to cut to four-foot pieces and these are going to be for the guideposts
for the crank I want it to bend right here move it
move it down on the bar bender a little bit more so that where I'm putting the
pressure the actual bends going to happen yeah that's better that's getting
the effect that I want and I'm gonna do it just a little bit more I need to
think ahead make sure this can clear this is over slightly and then I want to
make sure that this is level they'll just help me to have a good guideposts
there we go that's it look like I ended up just using a half-inch tapping screw
to connect the half inch and three quarter inch together this is a two by
six by ten foot piece and I'm gonna create a 40 inch wide door I'm gonna
make it an extra wide door most home doors are about three feet let's give
myself a little bit extra room just in case so to do that I'm gonna find the
center point of the board and then measure 20 inches on each side and that
way I'm cutting out the very center of this and now I just want to connect
these together this is the bottom board in the back here with the side without
the door so you just drill through your ground post all the way through I pre
attached my backing since I've got such a small room back here attached ahead of
time put together didn't have a long enough board so I just put them together
like that so I'd have to go buy another one just because it ended up being a
little bit wider than 10 feet so the next step here we need to put the
channel here all the other side and also the
railing down here as well so we're going to go ahead and do that so here's all
the channels look now and you can kind of see V&R screws I put in how that's
looking so I was left with a little bit of overhang here on my pipe so I'm just
going to cut it and then wire brush it so that it's smooth plastic okay so at
this point the greenhouse is basically done and I just need to add plastic and
one more thing I have to build out the front door and right now I'm by myself
and I'm waiting for my dad and my friend Bryan to come over to help me finish
some oil these tables inside because I don't want to fully build out my door
until I get all those big tables in there because one of my tables is four
foot wide so what I'm gonna do just before I put on the plastic is set up
the main frame of the door these are two by four by tens and those are gonna fit
against the rail there and I'm gonna show you how to cut a notch out of there
so that we can attach carriage bolts and I just wanted to make sure to pre-drill
all this before I put the plastic on cuz what if I slip up there and then I hit
the greenhouse plastic I just you know I didn't want to risk it so I'm gonna mock
up the whole doorframe take it down then put the plastic on doing things a little
bit out of order just because of the timing of my help so what I'm trying to
do is cut out a notch into this board
the loop here and a touch caracal inside of this so I'm going to take a
measurement at the top here and that'll be where I cut the board to length and
I'm gonna make another mark on the bottom so that I I'll show myself to cut
out a little much so that a carriage bolt can go through here the board
all right so that's a little mark that I made so I'm gonna cut straight across
here and then I'll cut out a little notch so here's what that knotch looks
like okay so I found my level with a board I've got it all perfectly lined up
and now I can drill my holes and then I'll know where to put it when I rebuild
I'm gonna chop this corner piece off as well because it looks like the plastic
might rub on there since something else is these labels so of course you want it
you need to be able to read from the inside that it says this is the inside
and then these labels are basically in the center a little bit off-center but
you can use the labels to help you as a guide to get the greenhouse pretty even
so that you have even amount of slack for each sidewall so something my friend
Brian came up with was a good idea just put the 3/4 inch conduit on top of the
plastic and that's just gonna help make sure as we're doing the wiggle wire we
keep it nice and tight and even so we did that on both sides
I actually screwed up on this side I took too much slack so I did take the
wiggle wire out and then we put this out to make it even and then you pull it to
one side and you're easily able to bend it in and you push it to the other side
and see how kind of snaps in there and you'll just wiggle it back and forth
and I guess that's how it got its name and you're just pushing it into the
track okay so now what we've done is we've got the wiggle wire on this ridge
line at the backroads line and then the bottom board back there so now what I
need to do is cut this plastic off it'll be a separate piece that will attach
later to the front door and then that's gonna allow us to do our roll-up sides
next so we'll attach to the three-quarter inch conduit wrap
it and then get it set on the crank so because of the fence here it would have
been really difficult to put the wiggle wire in from the outside so what I did
is I just folded the plastic under and then put the wiggle wire in between that
and it was really easy so if you're in a close quarter space that's a good way to
do it okay so we're gonna do the other roll-up side now and it's gonna be a
little bit tricky on this side just because that tree is there but what we
figured out is the best technique is to start wrapping it on to the edge
get it on there and then pull it back and pull it tight and wrap pull it tight
and wrap so before you start start wrapping it make sure that your crank is
gonna be able to fit there real easily pull the plastic back a little cut it if
you need to and on the other side the pole is going to extend a few inches
beyond the end wall as well here's the roll-up sides for the bootstrap farmer
greenhouse how cool is this
and now I can keep it warm at night during the day when it gets hot I can
lift it up and get a nice breeze in there
so these roll-up sides are gonna be very important for me here in San Diego
just because since we don't get so cold it's nice to be able to control the side
panel here I'm using five inch carriage bolts for this okay so the next step
that I need to do now is make my door frame as square and level as I possibly
can now let's say this wasn't perfectly squares like this then when you open
that door the doors also at that same angle and it's gonna hit the edge here
it's not gonna close correctly then all this I'm taking uh some three inch
screws driving into the baseboards and we're done and then we can just start
building it out door I'm gonna build the door just completely from this free wood
fence siding and just make a really cheap door into that so if I was going
to do this again I did make a small mistake because I you know I have no
professional building experience at all what I would have done is put the frame
in first get that perfectly level then measure out the baseboards to match
because what I'm noticing is this one's good but this one if this board was
another quarter inch longer it'd be more level there's that little gap I'm
talking about so here's my idea to fix it I do have a little bit of gap here to
put might run my carriage bolt through right here and I'll put it as close to
the edge as I possibly can it will cinch up this gap a little bit enough that it
will make it much more level so I think it's worth it to do it okay so I just
flipped it and nudged it over check that out now we've got it's almost flush and
now I'm almost perfect level now because we're dealing with uneven ground it's
going to make it a little difficult to make it perfect but it's very very close
so I'm getting this board completely level and in line with this one so that
I know everything is square and it's always best to drill pilot holes first
to prevent any wood from split splitting but I'm just feeling a little lazy right
now I don't want to have to get out the other drill I think I'll make it like a
seven foot door just to be extra safe ain't say any big things need to go in
or out all right now we got the header on there or whatever that thing is
called now I'm gonna be building a door out of adjust the fence posts and as you
can see the fence post only goes up to about six feet so many like foot on
there so I'm just going to take my measurement so the whole length and then
I'll just add on another piece of wood and to make it the full length and I
don't need to build some super strong gnarly door I'm in San Diego we don't
have snow we don't have extreme temperatures so that something real
simple like this will do the job so I just went ahead and just built the door
out without filming it so you guys can see how I put it together here you know
I just cut apart the fence board to make it work these fence boards weren't long
enough so I just attached thing to lengthen them and then so here's the key
things I wanted to show you guys here and in the door design I put this
diagonal piece from a recommendation from a friend on Instagram brandman 1989
thank you so much for the construction advice I put out a little Instagram
story he's like hey you should put another brace on there it'll help keep
the door square so that over time as you're mu opening it as it's getting wet
as the sun's beating on it it doesn't warp and become difficult to close so I
followed his advice and put a diagonal board on there and now I'm gonna be
putting on the hinges and now because I am using some crappier wood this stuff
was splitting really easy it's old you know it's been on a fence for I don't
know five to ten years or something so to reinforce it here's something a
really great trick that you can do I just this is a two by three and I just
bolted that in with a two inch screw and then oh that's gonna do is make it very
strong now so now when I install my hinges then
it's going into the two-by-four and then it's going to go into the wood but it's
gonna go into that 2x3 so it's a huge chunk of wood to give it a ton of
strength if I would just go into this it would work and be fine but possibly over
time it would get destroyed and the door just won't last as long so doing a
couple simple things up front will just make it a lot more reliable door I'm
gonna you know mock these up pre-drill all my holes so that nothing splits when
I do this and then drive the screws in and then I'm gonna come out I'm gonna
have my wife come out and help me install this because when we put on the
hinges you need someone else to lift up the door for you to give a gap at the
bottom right so you can open the door easily then I'll attach the hinges at
that time you can see the board down here is is hitting there and that's
what's preventing it so I'm just gonna cut out a very small sliver off this
thing so that it allows me to open the door all the way
sweeping there's no there's a bit of a gap it's not really a big deal because
I'm in San Diego it's only two three months where we have cold weather and
that small little crack isn't enough to matter I could have built this door
better and I could have built you know an inner frame so then it's completely
sealed but we don't have snow we don't have crazy cold weather so that wasn't
like necessary for me so I didn't go the extra effort and I just built it as fast
as I could so now the final steps are to just get
the channel on all the sides on the doors and then it'll be completely
sealed in there and we'll see how it goes in summer I may not want to have an
end wall on this side we'll see I am gonna put shade cloth and now that I've
got the roll-up sides on there with the shade cloth maybe
that'll be cool enough that even in a hundred degree day it'll be okay
but I'll have to see what the temps are like what the humidity is like in there
to really figure out if I'll need to make other adjustments
all right everybody that's gonna be it for today's video all about building the
bootstrap farmer green house check out their green house on all of their
different farm supplies at bootstrap farmer comm they're fantastic company
they even have their own podcast and lots of different articles on their
websites to help small farmers like us I'll put a link in the description to
bootstrap farmer and this exact green house for you so that you can check it
out feel free to ask any questions you have about the green house I'd be happy
to answer this for you anything I can't answer for bootstrap farmer will jump in
here and help us figure out the details please like and share these videos with
your friends consider supporting me on patreon or donating a small amount to my
paypal I have all my links in the description
everything goes help me making more and better videos like it spend more time
doing this for you guys as it takes time away from my farm and generating revenue
that way thank you so much for supporting me and my mission of getting
small-scale farmers started so that we can start a small-scale farming
revolution alright happy green house building out there best of luck on your
own green house and I'll see you guys in the next episode
For more infomation >> Season 9, Episode 4 How to Build a Dragon - Duration: 22:02. 
For more infomation >> FS19 How to build a farm Pt. 1 - Timelapse - Duration: 5:23. 
For more infomation >> Why did they build a railway for the dead? - Duration: 1:52. 
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