Thứ Hai, 5 tháng 3, 2018

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hi everyone it's Justine. people who are vegan diet don't eat or wear

anything coming from animals but in apparel production in fashion

there are several materials used that are animal-based for example the main

ones are leather wool silk feathers and fur. so 5 different things that are

mostly used in this video I want to talk about what it means to be vegan in

fashion when you shop for clothes. when they say vegan leather for instance what

does it really mean? what are alternatives that you can look for when

you don't want to wear leather wool silk feathers or fut? and is ethical fashion

vegan fashion? is that synonymous, is thatthe same thing? let's start with

leather the leather production needs to be a simple byproduct of the food

industry but now the consumption of meats stagnates or declines depending on

which country you're looking at while they need for leather for apparel

production keeps rising so now there are animals that get raised and killed not

to be eaten but just for their skin when you read leather on the comments label

it doesn't tell you if the animal has been ethically treated it also doesn't

tell you if only the upper upper layer is leather and then plastic underneath

or if the whole thing the whole layer is leather

it also doesn't tell you where that leather is in fact coming from so there

is a huge gap in the information available to you as a consumer. so what

are the alternatives? the first one is pleather also called

PVC which is in fact plastic this one doesn't biodegrade and it ends in

landfills I have a problem with this one because it's really not recyclable so no

animal dies but it's extremely polluting during the production process and after

the person the consumer has gotten rid of that garment. fortunately there are

better alternatives being developed at the moment: cork is one of them it's

produced mostly in Spain and Portugal it is stiff but it works very well if

you're molding something out of it like rounded pump or for flat surfaces it's

also water-resistant the material is harvested from a cork oak the tree goes

on living and growing after the harvest every nine years you can harvest the

cork again it does not damage the tree then pineapple leather is a

quite new option it is made from pineapple leaves and it's already used

for instance to make shoes it's a byproduct of the pineapple production if

we didn't use the waste of those leaves to make something out of it it would

just get thrown away so sustainability point then a very new new option is

mushroom leather that one looks surprisingly similar to actual leather

in terms of coloring and differences on the surface it can be anything from soft

to stiff and it's very gentle on the skin mostly hypoallergenic it's not

water resistant but it can be waxed to achieve just that one limitation though

it can't be produced at scale yet but it's definitely something to keep in

mind for the future because it's 100% renewable then we have wool. wool does

not technically require an animal to die you're just shaving off the hair and

then it grows back again it's a cycle the problem is when animals get

genetically modified to produce more hairs or when they're not being paid

attention to while being shaven because people have been told to shave faster so

there is eco-friendly sustainable ethical wool but the biggest producers

usually don't tell you where the wool is coming from and it is definitely

intensive production. so what are the alternatives?

the first one is acrylic this one has been engineered literally to

replace it is cheaper it's more stable it has a similar look & feel and

similar properties it's just not as good as wool. linen is another alternative. it is a

bit wrinkly a bit stiff but it breathes very well. there is hemp as well that one

is a bit raw a bit itchy but if the yarn is good quality and well spun it will

do the job. then bamboo is another option it's very soft and very flexible but if

you have a bamboo sweater and a wool sweater of the same thickness the bamboo

one will be more expensive. linen hemp and bamboo are vegan and quite

sustainable while acrylic is chemically produced. let's move on to silk. silk is

produced by little silkworms but unless you're talking about raw silk or wild

silk, the worms don't have a great life. they are doped, they can't really move

freely. it's really intensive production. what are the alternatives?

was invented just like acrylic for wool to imitate silk. it is way way cheaper

it's not as light it's not as luxurious when you touch it but it is quite shiny

too then Tencel and modal are made from

cellulose they are very new developments. thery're okay

environmentally-friendly they're of natural origin but they require a bit of

manipulation it is a complex process. if you look at these two fabrics here can

you tell which one is silk and which one is model? this one is modal it has been

calendered so the surface has been pressed by a heavy cylinder which makes

it nice and shiny just like the silk is. then we have feathers. feathers are not

used much in fashion, you think? but in fact down jackets and winter coats are

typically filled with duck and goose feathers. it's not just about the exotic

ones that you find on haute couture hats. people used to kill rare birds just for

their feathers, exotic and colorful ones. down seems like a bit more ethical, okay

option because it's a byproduct of the food industry and ostrich feathers are

now commonly replaced by turkey feathers. they can also be dyed in any color so it

replaces the rare animal. what are the alternatives? we already have synthetic

down with great properties it dries even faster than the real down which is great

in winter think of Thinsulate microfiber thing which is used for outdoor clothing

think of Primaloft which is used to fill the coats of the US Army.

synthetic down is also more eco-friendly and recyclable or sometimes even already

recycled. so as far as down is concerned we have great alternatives already. and

finally fur. that is the most debated material within the entire fashion

industry. it stands on the one hand for absolute luxury on the other hand at the

same time for absolute brutality towards animals. the ethical questioning behind

that debate is obvious. even when people don't wear full fur coats, there is this

trim which is trending on the hoodie of winter coats which can be actual fur. so

fur it still used in the apparel production probably, more often than you

think. what are the alternatives? faux fur, already broadly used.

it is synthetic so it's not environmentally friendly but it is 100%

vegan. however sometimes you will buy something that is labeled faux fur and

it might actually be real fur how. to be sure? look in between the hairs. if you

see a canvas of fabric at the base, holding the hairs together, then it's

faux fur. how to be really really sure? if you burn fur it's like burning a human

hair. it will burn down and smell. if it's synthetic it will melt and smell

like plastic. if the item you purchased is labeled as fake fur & turns out to be

real fur, you can take it straight back to the store where you got it, if you

wish. for each animal-sourced material, we have vegan alternatives. but they're not

always environmentally-friendly or sustainable. plastic is really not a

great basis we produce way more than enough of it on the planet already. then

the next question is how do you put all the materials together to build a piece

of clothing? or when you build a quirk shoe for instance, is the glue that

you're using also animal-free? is the dye that's being used also animal-free?

last but not least: what about the production process itself? Are the garment

workers also treated well ethically? fast fashion is the opposite of fair fashion

and of sustainability so if a brand is using vegan leather instead of leather

but has its sewn by children, underaged and underpaid, it's not going in the

right direction either. this video is already very content-heavy so I'm gonna

stop here for today and link down below in the description to further

video for you guys, if you're interested: the first one is about how to shop for

ethical fashion, where to look, what to pay attention to? what are the criteria?

and about fast fashion, a video that I did last year: what it is and how does it

work? if you found some food for thought in

today's video, thumbs up! thank you so much! subscribe to my channel if you're

interested in fashion! I upload new videos every Wednesday and every Sunday,

so see you soon again, bye!

For more infomation >> Vegan fashion = ethical & fair fashion? What are the alternatives? ǀ Justine Leconte - Duration: 8:47.

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SiTa Fashion | Những Mẫu Quần Jeans Phải Thử Ngay Trong Xuân Hè Này | KOREA JEANS - Duration: 7:42.

For more infomation >> SiTa Fashion | Những Mẫu Quần Jeans Phải Thử Ngay Trong Xuân Hè Này | KOREA JEANS - Duration: 7:42.

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TENDENCIAS de MODA Primavera-Verano 2018 | Fashion Trends SS2018 - Duration: 16:01.

For more infomation >> TENDENCIAS de MODA Primavera-Verano 2018 | Fashion Trends SS2018 - Duration: 16:01.

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Oscar-Fashion: Die 5 schönsten Kleider der Award-Geschichte! | CELEBRITIES und GOSSIP - Duration: 4:18.

For more infomation >> Oscar-Fashion: Die 5 schönsten Kleider der Award-Geschichte! | CELEBRITIES und GOSSIP - Duration: 4:18.

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Paris Fashion Week : des attraits de caractère - Duration: 7:19.

For more infomation >> Paris Fashion Week : des attraits de caractère - Duration: 7:19.

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Jennifer Lawrence Channels a Fashion Warrior at the 2018 Oscars - Duration: 1:14.

Jennifer Lawrence Channels a Fashion Warrior at the 2018 Oscars

  Jennifer Lawrence is ready for fashion war! The Red Sparrow actress arrived to the 2018 Academy Awards in a body of armor (and art!). The metallic Dior gown featured a bodice with a sweetheart neckline and super-skinny straps.

As the dress descends to the grown, metallic paillettes change in size and shape until a skirt drapes to the floor. The attention to detail and luxury is seen in every sequin.

The A-lister paired the seemingly heavy dress with mid-length waves to perhaps soften the look. Her strong smoky eye, featuring winged-out shadow, and a dark-orange lip brought a retro element to the very glam gown.

Jennifer isnt nominated this year, but she still made a strong style statement.

This look is quite modern in comparison to the strapless, textured Dior ball gown she wore when Jennifer won the Oscar in 2013 for her role in Silver Linings Playbook. The Oscar winner went from red carpet princess to fashion warrior.

Did you like J. Be sure to watch E!s After Party: The 2018 Academy Awards special at 11:30 p.m. PT!.

For more infomation >> Jennifer Lawrence Channels a Fashion Warrior at the 2018 Oscars - Duration: 1:14.

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How Allison Williams and Greta Gerwig Crossed the Fashion Finish Line at the 2018 Oscars - Duration: 5:57.

How Allison Williams and Greta Gerwig Crossed the Fashion Finish Line at the 2018 Oscars

  As Greta Gerwig and Allison Williams cross the finish line of a whirlwind Hollywood race, theres a sartorial team behind them on an equally tireless quest to get them dressed.  Its been quite the momentous award season for 34-year-old Gerwig, who rose to new professional heights this year when she garnered not one, but two of her first Oscar nominations for her critically acclaimed directorial debut, Lady Bird.

In addition to her recognition as a nominee for Best Original Screenplay, the multi-hyphenate became the fifth woman in history to able to call herself an Academy Award Best Director nominee.

The honor is the pièce de résistance on a non-stop award season packed with acknowledgement from virtually every award ceremony on the lineup.

From a sartorial standpoint, the mounting initial buzz around Gerwigs latest project was an early cue to Gerwigs longtime stylist, Cristina Ehrlich, that there would be plenty to dress for in the coming months.  When all of the announcements started coming in before Christmas, it was pretty much on our radar that we would be doing a full award season with her, the revered stylist told E! News. .

Williams, meanwhile, made her silver screen debut last January with Get Out and has been on one magical award show ride ever since.

That ride culminated in her first ticket to the Oscars as the movie is nominated for Best Picture among other nods.  Not keen on dawdling, Ehrlich sprung into action to prepare for the award season that awaited two of her star clients.

I have a reputation and a tendency to like to start pretty fast and furious out of the gates because the timing with everything is tight, she explained, noting that conversations with designers began as early as mid-October to gauge interest. .

Naturally, finding a brand name dress to wear to some of the most publicized and respected events of the year in Hollywood does not come without its own level of strategy.

Our first task at hand is to make a list of designers that we feel are suitable and really kind of work with the clients aesthetic and then reach out to them and find out if the brand also has the interest, the stylist said.

Its sort of like peeling the onion—you start with the big onion and you just peel away and it always depends on the girls and her category and what the project is. It also depends on what the star wants to wear, of course.

They really defer to my team and I to bring options to them and sort of give them an idea of what were thinking and then its a discussion, Ehrlich told E! News.

Greta and I have a very evolved relationship at this stage of the game, as do Allison and I, so its really just sort of a matter of looking at what the awards are that theyre most likely attending and kind of just talking through it..

It doesnt hurt that Ehrlich has the privilege of working with women who already have a keen interest in fashion and are willing to mix it up.

I think all of these ladies, which is why its been a very amazing season for this office is, they all have a big love for fashion and they all look great in clothes and they all like to not be predictable and theyre all very just disciplined about approaching the process the way they would approach a role or a project, the stylist noted.

As she added, Its been a very creative time getting to work with [Gerwig] because theres a lot of brands that love her and at the same time, shes a very unusual and sort of not your classic beauty, so its been like a really fun way to find certain brands and colors and silhouettes and shapes and see how to bring each carpet moment alive on its own..

  Thom Boys (girls) ? #CELoves @aw wearing @thombrowneny #getout A post shared by Cristina Ehrlich (@cristinaehrlich) on Nov 14, 2017 at 10:58am PST.

Still, being tied to two highly celebrated films of the year comes with an added layer of time constraint.

These girls are so busy that they want to have the process be fun and it is very exhilarating, but they also really kind of depend on you to deliver the goods, she said.  After all, those looks will be forever memorialized in the annals of digital media.

These are moments that will always be available, the stylist told E! News.

I look at some of the carpets that Ive done in past Oscars and these are moments that will stay with your client for years. Were willing to bet Gerwig nor Williams will forget what they wore for their first Academy Awards on Sunday night.

For Williams, that was a blush gown with a rhinestone and crystal embroidered bodice and a full swing skirt by Armani Privé. Harry Winston jewels completed the glamorous old Hollywood look.

This being the first time that shes going to the Oscars…she really wanted to have that really beautiful, classic moment, Ehrlich noted.  Meanwhile, Gerwig brought a ray of sunshine to the carpet in a custom Rodarte marigold beaded gown that speaks to the spirit of her nominated film.

To top of off the look, the nominee sported a moonstone and sapphire Louis Comfort Tiffany necklace from 1910, a nod to the directors whimsical old soul..

With these looks hitting the red carpet Sunday night, thus marks the end of a two-month style sprint. My team and I have probably had no more than a day or two off since the 3rd of January.

Were working 24/7, Ehrlich revealed. Weve probably dressed [Gerwig] for at least 40 to 50 looks total and its a lot.With social media and the way the whole thing works now, every look that she wears is important.

People are paying attention.  The work is not officially over until the star sets foot on the iconic Academy Award red carpet—perhaps the biggest stage in the season yet.

Having been a professional dancer, Ehrlich does not underestimate the power of preparation to ensure a seamless process.

By the big day, Gerwig already has had numerous fittings in her dress, but had any snag or beyond arose at the last minute, sewers were in the room on Sunday.

If something happens, it will be fixed, but Ive been doing this job a long time and I have had plenty of experiences to where I know how to avoid those experiences, so on the day of its like were way past a dress rehearsal, Ehrlich assured.

By Sunday, the shoes have already been tried on and padded if necessary, the jewelry has been picked out and any foreseeable problems have most likely been troubleshooted.

Im not one of these stylists that likes to do things last minute because the clients really dont like it, either. Its too nerve-racking on the day of. It should be a very peaceful environment. Your client is zenned out.

Shes getting her nails done. Theres music playing in the background and its like—weve got this. In the words of Ehrlich, You can have an amazing season—you dont want to mess up Oscars day..

In the social media-driven world were living in today, Ehrlich preps her clients down to their red carpet poses—or lack thereof. I cant stand when the girls pop their legs, she candidly told E! News.

I dont like when they put their hands on their hip. Im not a big fan of when girls make that really big, sexy pouty face.

I think theres something really, really nice about just looking very natural and not posed on the carpet. When the time came for the two stars to make their red carpet debuts, the moment was picture perfect indeed. .

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