Hi this is Ron von Ron's Tron tutorials.
Today I want to show you in a compact and detailed way how to assemble a desktop ATX
PC System.
The following is a universal guide, because there are many different manufacturers, brands
and variants of components and they are constantly changing I will not go into specific performance,
but show a basic design that is applicable to almost all PCs , The order of assembly
of the individual components shown by me has proven to me.
I do not care about assembling as fast as possible, but I want to perform and show each
step exactly.
Other approaches are just as possible.
The components I use are partly used, some new.
Whenever possible, I try to reuse components such as cases, power supplies or hard disks,
saving money and protecting the limited resources of our planet.
I have this used PC case here that I want to use.
So first all the old stuff has to go out.
It is a standard case with 2 front USB ports.
After the housing is cleaned, I first want to put in the power supply, which will later
supplies all the components with power at the right voltage.
I have two used standard power supplies and I will install the stronger one of them.
I check the power output specified on the housing.
It is also important that the power supply has the right connectors that will be needed
later.
I need an ATX connector for the mainboard with 20 or 24 pins, the processor power supply
with 4 or 8 pins, and a SATA power cable for the SATA drive.
Since I will use a simple passive cooled graphics card, it doesnt need an extra power supply.
The power supply is placed in the area with the large opening, usually at the back of
the housing and secured with 4 screws.
It is important, that the fan, as well as the grids do not face against a housing wall.
Because without proper air flow, cooling will not be possible.
Since the mainboard is the basis of all other components, the entire system must be checked
for the selection of the mainboard.
The mainboard connects all other components.
If you want to use certain features on your new PC, such as a fast USB 3.0 port, then
mainboard must support this feature.
If a motherboard does not have this function, even a fast processor or RAM can not change
that.
The mainboard is not supposed to touch the rear wall of the housing, therefore spacers
must be installed.
First we screw the mainboard spacers into the marked holes.
First by hand and then i use a 5mm socket to tighten them.
The
mainboard manual tells you how many screws are to be used.
Also check the Information directly on the mainboard slide.
You can also arrange the spacers well after the holes in the mainboard.
Next, we put the bezel of the back mainboard connectors into the back wall of the chassis.
This part is supplied with the mainboard.
I press the sheet from the inside into the gap until it clicks into place.
Have it the right way around to match the connectors of the board.
Then gently lower the board into the housing so that the connectors slide through the corresponding
slots in the bezel.
At the same time, the screw holes in the mainboard must overlap the spacers.
Raise the board slightly so that the already installed spacers will not damage the mainboard
from the bottom.
This step is sometimes fiddly, but no problem with some patience.
As always, you should not use big force here.
Then screw the mainboard to all spacers with the housing.
For an ATX board it is usually nine screws.
Start at the middle screw and then always put opposite screws, thus preventing the sensitive
board from getting too much tension.
Again, do not tighten the screws too tight, otherwise you could damage the motherboard.
Now we can already connect the power supply to the mainboard.
First, we connect the the 20 or 24 pin ATX connector.
Push the wide plug into the socket until the side hook locks it.
Because of the notches, the plug can only be connected in one direction, so you can
not go wrong.
Now the CPU processor power supply can be connected.
The connector has four or eight pins and is usually located between the CPU socket and
rear mainboard edge.
If the plug has eight pins, do not confuse it with a PCI Express power cable for graphics
cards.
The plugs are usually labeled.
Mechanically, however, only the right plug fits in the right socket.
Most cases have front ports for USB (2.0, 3.0, 3.1), headset, and sometimes HDMI.
Our case has USB, and two audio ports.
I connect the plugs to the corresponding connections.
For orientation and purpose, it is essential to refer to the case and mainboard instructions.
I now connect the data lines of the front panel.
This includes the cabling of power and reset switches as well as the status LEDs for power
supply and hard drive.
The connections are distributed over several cables.
Most of the labels on the housing cables must point away from the conector as here.
Both the operating system, like Windows, as well as all installed programs and application
data such as images, music, etc. will be stored on the main drive.
The fastest access speed is achieved with SSDs nowadays.
These are memory chips without mechanical components.
SSD drives are offered in size 2.5 inches and therefore do not fit easily into the bigger
hard drive bays.
Meanwhile, more and more cases have special slots for the smaller SSDs.
I use an mounting adapter to secure the SSD.
This adapter can then be screwed into the housing.
The connections should point to the mainboard.
In the next step, Now I connect one of the SATA power cables from the power supply to
the SSD.
The plug looks like this fits only in one direction and therefore can not be connected
the wrong way.
In order to have room to install the other components, I tuck the remaining wires together
so that they are not in the way.
This can also be done at the very end, but this way it makes the further installs easier.
I slip unused wires into one of the empty bays and use zip ties to neatly lay all cables.
I connect the hard drive to the motherboard with a SATA data cable.
Additional SATA slots are available on the mainboard.
So you can connect more hard drives for more storage, or optical drives like Blu-ray or
DVD drives.
Since I only watch movies and music online on Amazon Prime, I won't installation additional
drives for now.
Check if you really need an extra drive, because most of the data will be transferred via USB
stick or cloud nowadays.
In the next step, I put the RAM memory on the mainboard.
To find the right memory modules, take a look at the mainboard information, because the
module has to fit the board.
Here, the memory type is indicated as DDR3, In addition, attention must be paid to the
maximum individual capacity of 8Gb in this case and the supported frequencies up to 2133
megahertz.
This means we can use DDR3 modules with a maximum frequency of 2133Mhz and a maximum
of 8Gb per module.
To insert the memory modules into the slots on the mainboard, you first open the locking
of the slots that are to be used.
Always choose identical colored slots.
In order to use the so-called dual-channel mode, you should always prefer to use two
smaller bars than a single module with double capacity.
Some mainboards support quad-channel RAM.
Here you should equip the memory for maximum performance not in pairs, but in four-packs.
Insert the RAM module into the slot from the top.
Make sure that the latch on both sides is in the guide and that the notch on the module
contact bar is right above the nose in the slot.
Finally, press the memory module down evenly with both hands.
When the memory latch is properly seated in the slot, the mounting tab automatically folds
into the side notch and the RAM locks in place.
The second bar is installed the same way.
The heart of a computer is the processor, which is mounted on the mainboard.
Different processors and manufacturers use different connection sockets.
The processor, in this case an AMD FX must therefore have the socket AM3 + to fit on
the mainboard with the socket AM3 +.
Makes sense right, so check before you order these parts.
Installing a processor is not that complicated.
First, the socket must be unlocked.
This is done by folding up this lever.
Then the processor can be unpacked.
Be careful not to touch the pins on the bottom.
AMD processors have a small triangle in one corner of socket and CPU to help with alignment.
Only if both triangles are on top of each other, the pins slip in the holes without
pressure.
Do not use force here!
After placing, we lock the base by placing the metal lever down and letting it snap into
place.
There is hardly any force required.
This mechanism pinches the processor so that it can not fall out.
All computing processes run through the processor that's why it can be very hot during operation.
To not have it overheating a cooler must be installed.
I will briefly show how I install the included cooler.
For the installation of a high-quality and quiet CPU cooler, I recommend my video for
installation and noise measurement of a super silent BeQuiet cooler.
This standard cooler is delivered all assembled.
The thermal paste is already applied so that you can simply place it on the AM3 + socket.
The standard attachment mechanism basically consists of two plastic retention noses on
the mainboard.
Over these noses, the metal eyelets of the radiator are placed and tightened with this
lever.
Then just connect the 3 or 4 pin fan cable to the board and the cooler is all installed.
Before we can get started with installing the graphics card, we need to remove the slot
panels behind the PCI Express slot that is going to be used.
Loosen the screw and take the piece of sheet metal out of the housing.
Some housings have screwless brackets to be pushed out.
In the next step, I put the graphics card into the PCI Express slot.
There are a few things to keep in mind: First, that the contact strip of the graphics card
really slips into the slot.
Second, ensure that the thin bracket is in the narrow gap between the housing rear panel
and the mainboard.
And third, that the plastic nose for locking the PCI Express slot is not in the way.
If necessary, simply leverage the nose a little bit to the side with your finger or a screwdriver.
Press evenly on the top until the card slides into place and the angled end rests on the
rear plate where we previously took out the slot covers.
In order to not have all the weight on the board we secure the card with screws.
Depending on the height of the card, this happens with one or two screws, which are
turned into the screw holes of the slot covers.
There are also graphics cards with very big cooling that require three screws.
In order to be supplied with sufficient power, some graphic cards need an additional power
supply.
This consists of one to two usually six-, sometimes eight-pin plugs.
I now got all the components installed and wired.
Now we only have to close the side case and screw them on.
To do this, insert the side panels slightly tilted towards the front onto the housing
and close them until they fit flat.
In the final step, we screw the case covers to the housing with two screws at the top
and bottom.
Done! - our new PC is fully assembled.
In case your new PC does not want to start after assembly, this is no cause for panic
- mostly the problem is harmless and can be solved quickly.
You should then go through all components step by step again and check all connections.
I hope this video about the PC assembly of the basic parts has helped you.
Of course you can still add more components to the system whenever you want.
Product links for the computer components can be found in the video description.
Please feel free to leave a comment below.
Check out my channel for more informative videos.
Please smash that like button and don't forget to subscribe, thank you for watching and see
you next time, this is Ron from Ron's Tron Tutorials.


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