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Welcome to Parna Garden!

There are many benefits of raised bed gardening.

A raised bed that is about 1.5 to 2 feet tall

will be ideal for people with back pain

because they don't have to bend as much.

While growing in a raised bed,

you will spend less time pulling weeds out.

Gardening in raised beds

prevents soil compaction, because you won't be walking on the soil

and it provides good drainage

For all these reasons raised beds are great for growing vegetables

and flowers in a small backyard garden.

You can build raised beds using many materials

such as wood, concrete, metal, or even plastic based on your budget and preference.

Here is an example of a raised bed built in 2015

using cinder blocks or concrete blocks.

The advantage of cinder blocks is that you can just

place them on the ground and quickly build a raised bed.

and they last longer than wood.

However, because they are not held together by anything,

gravity and weight of the soil can push down on them and create gaps between the blocks

especially in a garden area that slopes just like mine.

This requires some realignment to close the gaps every season.

This raised bed is made up of two layers of cinder blocks

and this gives me a good working height

so I don't have to bend a lot.

The next bed I have in my backyard was built in 2016

using untreated lumber bought from hardware store

it is not very high but it still helps in controlling weeds

What you see here is a 2 feet tall keyhole shaped

raised bed under construction

I built this in 2017 and

it was also built using untreated lumber bought from hardware store.

I started off this raised bed by clearing the ground of grass and weeds and then I leveled

the ground, placed the first level of lumber,

and joined them together using galvanized screws.

I then placed some hardware cloth

or wire mesh on the ground. On top of the wire mesh I placed some cardboard.

Because it was going to be a two feet tall structure, I filled it up to a good

height with a layer of twigs and garden waste on top of the cardboard.

I then topped off the raised bed by adding compost, premier sphagnum peat moss,

perlite, and azomite rock dust and mixing them well. After about a year of growing

vegetables, the level of soil went down by four to six inches. So I have topped

it off again as you can see here. The other thing I have done on this bed is

added irrigation drip irrigation as you can see here.The one thing that was

common in the three raised beds you saw till now was that I had to spend money

to buy the materials required for constructing these raised beds.

It does not always have to be that way.

This year that is in the year 2018,

I'm constructing a raised bed with some wood logs that are lying around in my backyard.

These wood logs were delivered last year by ChipDrop along with the

wood chips that you can see here and I'm going to use these logs to construct a

raised bed. The location for this raised bed is at the north end of the garden by

the fence; not an ideal location for growing sun-loving vegetables, but I can

try to grow vegetables or plants that love partial shade or the

plants that can climb up the fence, and reach out for additional light.

I cleared the ground of grass and weed seeds, and loosened the clay soil like you see here.

There after I removed the soil from this location and placed a hardware cloth on

the ground. This helps to discourage critters from

making burrows and reaching the raised bed from underneath. The ground had a

slope, but I did not level it. I'm just going to place the wood logs along the

slope in a rectangle shape and form the raised bed structure. This is how it

looks like after the wood logs are placed. Next, I am going to fill this

raised bed with different materials to form the growing medium. I placed a layer

of cardboard on top of the hardware cloth as it helps to block sunlight and

prevent the growth of any grass or weed roots or weed seeds that may still exist

on the ground. I placed a layer of vegetable scraps from a kitchen on top

of the cardboard. I reused the clay soil removed from this location earlier to

cover these vegetable scraps. Eventually, the vegetable scraps will decompose and

provide nutrition to the plant roots The other ingredients used to fill this

raised bed we're mushroom compost, organic planting

soil from Costco, coarse premium grade perlite to provide better drainage in

the soil, Spagnum peat moss as it helps to loosen

the soil and retain moisture and Azomite rock dust used to replenish trace

minerals. After adding all the items shown earlier into the raised bed, I used

a pitchfork to mix them well. That is how I constructed

a raised bed using wood logs already available in my backyard. It got dark by

the time I completed this raised bed, and I apologize for the lower visibility

towards the end of this video. Recently, a friend of mine had requested me to

upload a video on raised bed. I hope this video is helpful for that friend, and

also for all the viewers of Parna garden channel. If you like this video on

raised bed, please hit the like button. Also, subscribe to Parna Garden Channel

to get notified of video uploads in the upcoming growing season.

Thank for stopping by. Enjoy gardening!

For more infomation >> How To Build a Raised Bed Garden - Duration: 7:56.

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Build A House - Original Minecraft song - Duration: 0:24.

bild a hoos

bild a hoos

bild a hoos

build-ah-ooz

bild a hoz hoos

build-ah-ooz

bild a hoos-ooz

bild-ah-hoos

bild a hoos-oofz

build,bil,bil bil,bill a hoos

YAE-EHAYAYAYYAYAY (Goanimate YAAAAAY)

For more infomation >> Build A House - Original Minecraft song - Duration: 0:24.

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How To Build A Scale - Duration: 7:02.

hey, welcome to 12tone! today I want to do something a little bit different and talk

a bit about how I, personally, think about music.

I'm a huge fan of structures, so I thought I'd delve into some of my mental models on

one of the most nebulous topics in theory: modality.

this word gets used to describe a lot of different but related ideas, but in the broadest possible

terms, it's basically the overall structure of a scale.

for instance, is this scale (bang) more like this one (bang) or this one?

(bang) I think most people would say the former, but in both cases we've just changed one note,

so… why?

well, the version they teach you in theory 1 goes something like this: the 3rd degree

of the scale is the primary modal note, and its quality tells you the modality of the

scale.

if it's a major 3rd you've got a major scale, and if it's minor… well, you can probably

figure it out.

this is sometimes combined with the 6th, which is the secondary modal note, although they

don't tend to tell you what happens when the two notes disagree.

but that's a little bit too simple for my tastes, so I've developed what I like to call

the Triforce of Modality.

quick caveat: I'm not claiming that any of this is my original work.

I've never seen it put together in exactly this way, but all the parts of it are pretty

well-known in the theory world.

also, I'm gonna be focusing on traditional 7-note scales.

the model works on others, but it takes some adapting and I just want to get the basic

ideas across.

anyway, this model can work either as an analytical tool, to break down a scale you've already

got, or as a generative tool.

each part contains a set of building blocks you can use to put together scales you might

never have considered, and they're pretty handy for exploring the possibility space

if you find yourself getting bored with the normal options.

the first method is what I like to call melodic modality.

this is what you'd expect to find by walking up and down the scale, and it can be represented

by a series of steps.

for instance, any theory student can tell you that the major scale is built by picking

a root, then going up a whole step, then another whole step, then a half step, then whole,

whole, whole, and finally half.

this pattern is literally burned into my brain, and it serves as a good introduction to this

idea.

by default, a 7-note scale has five whole steps and two half-steps, and the way those

are arranged is the core of melodic modality.

the whole steps don't really do that much: they sound pretty neutral, and also there's

just a lot of them.

they're mainly filling the gaps between the half-steps, which sound a lot more distinctive,

and really control the identity of the scale.

this is partly based on their positions above the root, but I think more important is their

positions relative to each other.

in the major scale, they're about as spaced-out as you can get: they've got two whole steps

between them on one side and three on the other.

this spreads out their dissonance and mellows the scale a bit. if we move them closer together,

we might get something like this (bang) where we see this little cluster in the middle,

creating a bit more confusion.

but, of course, not all scales are that straightforward. for instance, harmonic minor (bang) has an

augmented second between two of its scale degrees.

it gets away with this by also adding in a third half step, leaving us with just three

whole steps and giving the scale a really complex sound.

you could even make a scale with two augmented seconds (bang) or even a double-augmented

second (bang) as long as you compensate for the added distance by shrinking some of your

other steps to match.

I like to think of this process as mutation, and the further you've mutated from the initial

5-2 set-up, the more alien it's likely to sound.

you can even mutate up a scale with no whole steps at all (bang) if you want something

that sounds really, really weird.

next up is harmonic modality.

this, as the name implies, is based on the harmony.

specifically, it's based on what are called primary triads: that is, the most important

chords in the scale.

traditionally, these are the I chord, the IV chord, and the V chord, and if you know

the qualities of all three, you can generate the entire scale.

check this out.

we start with a root. this is just a fixed, arbitrary point, so let's go with A. the root

of the scale is also the root of our I chord, so if we know our I chord is major, that tells

us what the other chord tones are: C#, the 3rd, and E, the 5th. now we've found the root

of our V chord, and if that's major too then we get two new notes, G#, the 7th degree of

the scale, and B, the 2nd. we don't have the root of our IV chord yet, but we can find

it: the construction of the IV chord contains the root of the scale, and since we know what

that is, we can just work backwards from that to find the last two notes.

if our IV chord is also major, that gives us F#, the 6th degree, and D, the 4th, and

voila. we have the entire A major scale.

and you can do this with any set of chords you want.

let's say you wanted to build natural minor: that's I minor, IV minor, V minor.

how about harmonic minor?

that's I minor, IV minor, V major.

you can even add in weirder chord qualities: if we take I diminished, IV minor, and V augmented,

we get this (bang) which is called Locrian natural 9. we could even use I minor, V major,

and IV sus 4, which gives us this scale (bang) which, looking it up, appears to be an Indian

Carnatic Raga called Varunapriya although, of course, directly comparing Western scales

to Indian Ragas is dangerous to say the least.

harmonic modality, by the way, is where I think the idea of the 3rd and 6th as modal

notes comes from: those notes define the qualities of the I and IV chords, respectively, and

since the V chord is traditionally always major, those two were the ones that changed

between major and minor keys. this approach is a little more rigorous than melodic modality,

because it's literally just picking three chord qualities and seeing what spills out

and, again, it's a great way to find scales you might never have considered.

I mean, I'd never seen Varunapriya before making this video.

anyway, the last method is what I call chord scale modality, which looks at how the notes

of the scale relate to its underlying harmony.

this approach breaks the notes into two groups.

the first is the chord tones, which are the notes that are part of the scale's harmonic

identity.

traditionally this is the root, 3rd, 5th, and 7th, although some scales break that.

these give the scale its overall quality: if they create a major 7 chord, for instance,

you've got a major scale, if they make a dominant 7th it's a dominant scale, and so on.

the other group is the tensions, short for chord extensions, which comprise the rest

of the notes.

these are traditionally the 2nd, 4th, and 6th degrees, although to differentiate them

from the chord tones they're often called the 9th, 11th, and 13th instead, for reasons

that aren't really worth diving into since this video's already getting pretty long.

these give the scale its specific color and, again, this largely comes down to half-steps.

here, what matters is how far away the tensions are from the nearest chord tones. this gets

a bit fuzzy, but a good rule of thumb is that tensions a half step above a chord tone sound

the harshest and should generally be avoided, tensions a half step below a chord tone sound

a little rough and should be used with caution, and tensions at least a whole step away from

both sides sound relaxed and can be used freely.

plus there's some extra dissonance if your tension is a tritone away from a chord tone.

for construction purposes, I tend to refer to the tensions by comparison to the modes,

which if you're not familiar, we've talked about in previous videos. for instance, if

we took a major 7 chord and added in the tensions from the phrygian mode we'd wind up with Phrygian

Major (bang), while combining a dominant 7th chord with the tensions from lydian gives

us Lydian Dominant.

(bang) to build your own scale like this, all you have to do is pick a 7th chord and

then place the tensions next to them in order to create your desired level of dissonance.

so yeah, whether you think of the major scale like this, this, or this, that's a glimpse

into how I look at modality.

I'm sure y'all have your own thoughts on the subject, so please, let me know in the comments.

anyway, thanks for watching, and thanks to our Patreon patrons for supporting us and

making these videos possible.

if you want to help out, and get some sweet perks like sneak peeks of upcoming episodes,

there's a link to our Patreon on screen now.

you can also join our mailing list to find out about new episodes, like, share, comment,

subscribe, and above all, keep on rockin'.

For more infomation >> How To Build A Scale - Duration: 7:02.

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How to Build a LEGO Halo Grunt - Duration: 4:55.

what is up guys so today we're gonna be building a lego halo grunt this is from

the Halo universe so I know a lot of you guys have watched my Lego ODST video if

you guys haven't I'll have it on the left-hand side of this video but a lot

of you guys have asked me how did we design this grunt this grunt was

designed by a user named brick jet he came up with an incredible design for

this Lego grunt so I hope you guys are excited to be sure to like this video

subscribe to brick culture and let's begin with this tutorial so starting off

with this build you're gonna need two of these bricks once you have these two

bricks you're going to need one of these I'd call them telephone pieces because

they look like telephones but you're gonna need one of these and you're gonna

stick these together to make the grunts feet so you should have something that

looks like this so now we're gonna build the torso of the grunt first you're

gonna need one of these pieces as you can see right here then you're gonna

need one of these pieces you're going to stick this piece it has studs on all

four sides you're gonna stick it right on this little brick and then you're

gonna get a 1 by 1 orange plate and you're gonna put that in front of it

like this now we're gonna construct the arms so you're going to need one of

these you're gonna need one of these you're gonna need one of these so we're

gonna do this two times so first you're gonna get the arm thing you're going to

get one of these arm pieces stick that here and then you're gonna get the 1 by

1 circle orange stud and place that on top so you're gonna do this twice so you

should have something looking like this you should have two of these so we're

gonna bring the torso back in so you're gonna have this we're gonna stick these

together to make the torso so get these two pieces connect them I'm gonna get

the other side and connect them and now we can bring in the feet and connect

this so as you can see we're starting to construct the grunt now we just have to

build the head and the back piece so these will be the

three pieces you need to create the back of the grunt so first you're gonna get

your 2x1 plate that's orange and get this piece and you're gonna connect them

and then you're gonna get this slope and put it on top of that so this should

create the slip that you see on the grunts bag so now that we have the

grunts body we're gonna attach the back piece so flip them around and you're

going to put the circle on the circle right here so this circle you're going

to attach right here so you should have something looking like this so now we're

gonna put the head onto the figure now we're gonna make the head of the grunt

so you're gonna eat a 1 by 2 plate that's gray so next you'll need a 1 by 1

stud that is gray as well you're gonna place that here and now you're gonna get

a slope that is a darker gray you're gonna place that here and you're gonna

get a 1 by 1 flat plate and place that here so you should have something

looking like this next you're gonna grab a 1 by 1 circle brick like this and

you're gonna place that on the bottom so you just have something looking like

this now so now we're gonna build the mask of the grunt you're gonna need one

of these pieces as we can see here your 1 and then you're going to need to

circle gray pieces that are 1x1 you're going to attach them to either side of

this so you're gonna build it like here and I'm like here so you should have a

mask looking like this now we're gonna attach that to the head so you should

have something looking like this so now we're going to complete our Lego halo

grunt by attaching the head onto the body so this is the final design as you

can see we have a Lego halo grunt so that is the build you guys I hope you

guys enjoyed how to build a Lego halo grunt let me know if you guys want me to

continue the Lego ODST series so because we could make more videos if you guys

are interested in that but I hope you guys enjoyed it be sure to subscribe to

brick culture for more Lego how to build videos and I'll see you guys next

peace

For more infomation >> How to Build a LEGO Halo Grunt - Duration: 4:55.

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How to build an igloo for snow camping - Duration: 5:51.

Hello there! Welcome to the Northwest Sisu Outdoors YouTube channel!

I hope you are doing great today, and I hope you will enjoy

this video about building a real wilderness igloo!

if you have trouble understanding my accent,

you can always turn on closed captioning

It is winter here in the Pacific Northwest and

that means, it is time to build an igloo!

The last two winters I have built igloos in my front yard,

very cool ones, with features such as windows

made of ice, and cozy little stoves.

But those igloos were more a type of recreational igloos

and not really suitable for wilderness conditions.

This time we are building a real igloo ,

in which you can actually sleep well

and survive even the coldest nights!

We don't get much snow in the valley where I live,

so we had to drive up to the mountains

to build the igloo.

We skied up to higher elevations,

carrying everything we needed in our backpacks.

We found a nice open spot in the forest,

with an about five feet snow cover.

In the days prior to our snow camping trip

the days have been well above freezing,

and the nights have been below freezing,

creating a four-inch hard crust on the snow surface.

We cut up and removed the crust from our building

spot. The snow below the crust was soft and just

perfectly wet for making blocks for the igloo.

We compacted the snow and let it sit a while,

so it would harden up so it can be cut into blocks

We decided to build the igloo with an eight feet

inner diameter, just right for two people.

We used one of our ski poles as measuring stick

to maintain a consistent four feet radius

through the building process.

The saw is a basic 15 inch wood cutting saw.

It is lightweight and perfect for cutting

snow blocks an firewood.

The walls were going to be about a foot thick,

which was easy to keep consistent,

when cutting the blocks with a 15 inch saw.

A one foot thick wall also gives plenty of insulation.

First, we used the cut-out crust blocks to build a base.

We then cut the first set of actual blocks from inside

the igloo, lowering the floor to below the snow surface.

Once one floor layer of blocks was cut out from inside

the igloo, we left the sleeping areas at that level

and continued cutting out the trench from the center of

the floor and out through the entrance opening.

The entrance would ideally be a fully below the

snow surface for better heat retention.

But not being that cold this time, we built

it a little higher to make it easier

to enter and exit the igloo.

Music: Sequence of Art, by Origen Music. http://www.origenmusic.com

The blocks need to be cut and shaped

so they lock in smoothly to the mating surfaces,

and any gaps between blocks need to be filled,

in order for the blocks to stay in place.

Also, make sure that you smooth out the inside walls.

You can do this during the construction,

or once the igloo is completed.

This is to prevent any melt water dripping

on your sleeping bags and other gear.

When compacting the snow for the blocks, it is

much easier when the snow is wet, as it was today.

Last time we built a wilderness igloo, it was

below freezing and the snow was dry and powdery.

After packing the snow, we had to wait much longer for

the snow to recrystallize and harden up, and the

blocks were still fragile and more difficult to handle.

Today it took us three hours to build this igloo,

but we started early in the day, and we were in no rush.

If you are building an igloo with dry snow,

be prepared to spend much longer time completing it!

I had my GoPro 4 camera recording the process but

the batteries did not last as long as I thought they would

So I didn't get any video footage

of the final part of the construction.

We were both able to work independently for most

of the construction. But once the walls started leaning

inward at a steeper angle, we worked together

block by block, completing the ceiling.

One person holding the block

while the other person locked it in.

The ceiling ended up being more than six feet

off the floor, tall enough for us to stand inside.

Ok, we completed the igloo, let's take a look inside!

We added a vent hole off to the side, up in the ceiling.

Igloos require some air circulation,

to prevent suffocation.

We stayed warm and dry, and slept well all night

in our zero degree sleeping bags.

Thank you for watching our wilderness

igloo construction video!

Hopefully you enjoyed it. Have a great day!