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Hello, and welcome to Silly Boy Toys!

Today, we'll be making a pyramid out of Mega Bloks mini, or Lego Duplo if you have some.

So first of all, get a nice flat surface to work on and find as many 2x2 pieces as you

can.

They'll be used at the top of the pyramid.

The smaller pieces we'll use at the top of the pyramid.

Okay.

Next, we want to find some 2x4 pieces - the larger bricks.

Get as many of them as you can.

They'll be used for the foundation of the pyramid - the bottom of the pyramid,

because they're stronger and bigger.

And find some decoration, so some people, some doggies, a flag to put on top.

Whatever you can ... whatever you can find.

So let's get started.

So start with your smaller pieces first and create each layer one by one.

Now, we're only going to put bricks on the outside of the layer.

We're not going to build into the centre of the pyramid - just the outside as you can

see here.

It's best to start from the top, because if you start from the bottom, you don't know

how many bricks you're going to need.

From the top, you can just keep building until you run out of bricks.

So as you can see here, we haven't got enough 2x2's to complete the next layer, so we'll

hang on to them for later.

Now let's do out 2x4 ones - the bigger bricks.

Same thing, just go around the outside ... doing each layer.

Keep going until you've run out of bricks.

One more layer I think I can manage.

Oh oh, I need one more brick.

That happens to be a Lego.

That's the only Lego Duplo block that I use in this pyramid.

And there we go, we've completed the main structure.

But we've still got these spare 2x2's, haven't we?

Well, we can go ahead and make a tower - make a spire on top of the pyramid.

So keep putting them on until you run out.

And finally, we can stick the flag on top!

There we go.

Looks nice.

So let's put our decoration on.

Put the people up there.

The doggies.

Just balance them on however you wish.

The boy.

And there we have it!

Our completed pyramid.

What a marvel!

And that was Mega Bloks pyramid.

If you've enjoyed this video, don't forget to like and subscribe.

This is Silly Boy Toys.

See you next time!

Bye!

For more infomation >> How to Build a Giant Pyramid Using Mega Bloks Mini (or Lego Duplo) - Duration: 3:02.

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How To Build A Scale - Duration: 7:02.

hey, welcome to 12tone! today I want to do something a little bit different and talk

a bit about how I, personally, think about music.

I'm a huge fan of structures, so I thought I'd delve into some of my mental models on

one of the most nebulous topics in theory: modality.

this word gets used to describe a lot of different but related ideas, but in the broadest possible

terms, it's basically the overall structure of a scale.

for instance, is this scale (bang) more like this one (bang) or this one?

(bang) I think most people would say the former, but in both cases we've just changed one note,

so… why?

well, the version they teach you in theory 1 goes something like this: the 3rd degree

of the scale is the primary modal note, and its quality tells you the modality of the

scale.

if it's a major 3rd you've got a major scale, and if it's minor… well, you can probably

figure it out.

this is sometimes combined with the 6th, which is the secondary modal note, although they

don't tend to tell you what happens when the two notes disagree.

but that's a little bit too simple for my tastes, so I've developed what I like to call

the Triforce of Modality.

quick caveat: I'm not claiming that any of this is my original work.

I've never seen it put together in exactly this way, but all the parts of it are pretty

well-known in the theory world.

also, I'm gonna be focusing on traditional 7-note scales.

the model works on others, but it takes some adapting and I just want to get the basic

ideas across.

anyway, this model can work either as an analytical tool, to break down a scale you've already

got, or as a generative tool.

each part contains a set of building blocks you can use to put together scales you might

never have considered, and they're pretty handy for exploring the possibility space

if you find yourself getting bored with the normal options.

the first method is what I like to call melodic modality.

this is what you'd expect to find by walking up and down the scale, and it can be represented

by a series of steps.

for instance, any theory student can tell you that the major scale is built by picking

a root, then going up a whole step, then another whole step, then a half step, then whole,

whole, whole, and finally half.

this pattern is literally burned into my brain, and it serves as a good introduction to this

idea.

by default, a 7-note scale has five whole steps and two half-steps, and the way those

are arranged is the core of melodic modality.

the whole steps don't really do that much: they sound pretty neutral, and also there's

just a lot of them.

they're mainly filling the gaps between the half-steps, which sound a lot more distinctive,

and really control the identity of the scale.

this is partly based on their positions above the root, but I think more important is their

positions relative to each other.

in the major scale, they're about as spaced-out as you can get: they've got two whole steps

between them on one side and three on the other.

this spreads out their dissonance and mellows the scale a bit. if we move them closer together,

we might get something like this (bang) where we see this little cluster in the middle,

creating a bit more confusion.

but, of course, not all scales are that straightforward. for instance, harmonic minor (bang) has an

augmented second between two of its scale degrees.

it gets away with this by also adding in a third half step, leaving us with just three

whole steps and giving the scale a really complex sound.

you could even make a scale with two augmented seconds (bang) or even a double-augmented

second (bang) as long as you compensate for the added distance by shrinking some of your

other steps to match.

I like to think of this process as mutation, and the further you've mutated from the initial

5-2 set-up, the more alien it's likely to sound.

you can even mutate up a scale with no whole steps at all (bang) if you want something

that sounds really, really weird.

next up is harmonic modality.

this, as the name implies, is based on the harmony.

specifically, it's based on what are called primary triads: that is, the most important

chords in the scale.

traditionally, these are the I chord, the IV chord, and the V chord, and if you know

the qualities of all three, you can generate the entire scale.

check this out.

we start with a root. this is just a fixed, arbitrary point, so let's go with A. the root

of the scale is also the root of our I chord, so if we know our I chord is major, that tells

us what the other chord tones are: C#, the 3rd, and E, the 5th. now we've found the root

of our V chord, and if that's major too then we get two new notes, G#, the 7th degree of

the scale, and B, the 2nd. we don't have the root of our IV chord yet, but we can find

it: the construction of the IV chord contains the root of the scale, and since we know what

that is, we can just work backwards from that to find the last two notes.

if our IV chord is also major, that gives us F#, the 6th degree, and D, the 4th, and

voila. we have the entire A major scale.

and you can do this with any set of chords you want.

let's say you wanted to build natural minor: that's I minor, IV minor, V minor.

how about harmonic minor?

that's I minor, IV minor, V major.

you can even add in weirder chord qualities: if we take I diminished, IV minor, and V augmented,

we get this (bang) which is called Locrian natural 9. we could even use I minor, V major,

and IV sus 4, which gives us this scale (bang) which, looking it up, appears to be an Indian

Carnatic Raga called Varunapriya although, of course, directly comparing Western scales

to Indian Ragas is dangerous to say the least.

harmonic modality, by the way, is where I think the idea of the 3rd and 6th as modal

notes comes from: those notes define the qualities of the I and IV chords, respectively, and

since the V chord is traditionally always major, those two were the ones that changed

between major and minor keys. this approach is a little more rigorous than melodic modality,

because it's literally just picking three chord qualities and seeing what spills out

and, again, it's a great way to find scales you might never have considered.

I mean, I'd never seen Varunapriya before making this video.

anyway, the last method is what I call chord scale modality, which looks at how the notes

of the scale relate to its underlying harmony.

this approach breaks the notes into two groups.

the first is the chord tones, which are the notes that are part of the scale's harmonic

identity.

traditionally this is the root, 3rd, 5th, and 7th, although some scales break that.

these give the scale its overall quality: if they create a major 7 chord, for instance,

you've got a major scale, if they make a dominant 7th it's a dominant scale, and so on.

the other group is the tensions, short for chord extensions, which comprise the rest

of the notes.

these are traditionally the 2nd, 4th, and 6th degrees, although to differentiate them

from the chord tones they're often called the 9th, 11th, and 13th instead, for reasons

that aren't really worth diving into since this video's already getting pretty long.

these give the scale its specific color and, again, this largely comes down to half-steps.

here, what matters is how far away the tensions are from the nearest chord tones. this gets

a bit fuzzy, but a good rule of thumb is that tensions a half step above a chord tone sound

the harshest and should generally be avoided, tensions a half step below a chord tone sound

a little rough and should be used with caution, and tensions at least a whole step away from

both sides sound relaxed and can be used freely.

plus there's some extra dissonance if your tension is a tritone away from a chord tone.

for construction purposes, I tend to refer to the tensions by comparison to the modes,

which if you're not familiar, we've talked about in previous videos. for instance, if

we took a major 7 chord and added in the tensions from the phrygian mode we'd wind up with Phrygian

Major (bang), while combining a dominant 7th chord with the tensions from lydian gives

us Lydian Dominant.

(bang) to build your own scale like this, all you have to do is pick a 7th chord and

then place the tensions next to them in order to create your desired level of dissonance.

so yeah, whether you think of the major scale like this, this, or this, that's a glimpse

into how I look at modality.

I'm sure y'all have your own thoughts on the subject, so please, let me know in the comments.

anyway, thanks for watching, and thanks to our Patreon patrons for supporting us and

making these videos possible.

if you want to help out, and get some sweet perks like sneak peeks of upcoming episodes,

there's a link to our Patreon on screen now.

you can also join our mailing list to find out about new episodes, like, share, comment,

subscribe, and above all, keep on rockin'.

For more infomation >> How To Build A Scale - Duration: 7:02.

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How to Build a Giant Tower Using Mega Bloks Mini (or Lego Duplo) - Duration: 2:47.

Hello, and welcome to Silly Boy Toys.

Today, we'll be making a giant Mega Bloks tower using the exact same pieces that we

used in my last video when building the pyramid.

So you'll need a whole bunch of 2x2 blocks.

You could use Lego Duplo if you want to.

And you'll need some 2x4's.

These will be used for the base.

And you'll need some decoration.

So you can get some people, or dogs, a flag to put on top, and so on.

Doggy.

So, let's get started.

You use the 2x4 pieces and you build them in this way.

Put them on top of each other alternating the direction each time - each layer.

And you keep on doing that.

Keep going up and up and up... higher and higher.

Just keep doing this until you use them all up.

Okay, once you've used all the 2x4's, just place the 2x2's in the centre of the tower

and keep putting them on top... higher and higher.

Up and up we go.

Now it might get a bit tricky balancing them up here.

But keep with it.

Make sure you click them in correctly - click them in fully.

Higher and higher and higher.

Actually, this tower is taller than 1.1 metres tall, so 110 cm.

And once you get to the top, put on the flag.

Put a doggy up there.

In the centre section - in the middle section, you could put the man and his boy.

Be careful up there!

And down the bottom, I'm going to put another dog leaning up against the building.

He wants to see his master.

And there we have it!

That's the giant Mega Bloks tower.

Let's have a look at our creation.

It's huge, isn't it?

Very very tall.

All the way up to the top... with the flag and the doggy.

Looking down towards the bottom.

Wow, it's so tall, isn't it?

And there we go.

That was giant Mega Bloks tower.

If you've enjoyed this video, don't forget to like and subscribe.

This is Silly Boy Toys.

See you next time!

Bye!

For more infomation >> How to Build a Giant Tower Using Mega Bloks Mini (or Lego Duplo) - Duration: 2:47.

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How to build a diplodocus | Natural History Museum - Duration: 4:01.

For more infomation >> How to build a diplodocus | Natural History Museum - Duration: 4:01.

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How to build an igloo for snow camping - Duration: 5:51.

Hello there! Welcome to the Northwest Sisu Outdoors YouTube channel!

I hope you are doing great today, and I hope you will enjoy

this video about building a real wilderness igloo!

if you have trouble understanding my accent,

you can always turn on closed captioning

It is winter here in the Pacific Northwest and

that means, it is time to build an igloo!

The last two winters I have built igloos in my front yard,

very cool ones, with features such as windows

made of ice, and cozy little stoves.

But those igloos were more a type of recreational igloos

and not really suitable for wilderness conditions.

This time we are building a real igloo ,

in which you can actually sleep well

and survive even the coldest nights!

We don't get much snow in the valley where I live,

so we had to drive up to the mountains

to build the igloo.

We skied up to higher elevations,

carrying everything we needed in our backpacks.

We found a nice open spot in the forest,

with an about five feet snow cover.

In the days prior to our snow camping trip

the days have been well above freezing,

and the nights have been below freezing,

creating a four-inch hard crust on the snow surface.

We cut up and removed the crust from our building

spot. The snow below the crust was soft and just

perfectly wet for making blocks for the igloo.

We compacted the snow and let it sit a while,

so it would harden up so it can be cut into blocks

We decided to build the igloo with an eight feet

inner diameter, just right for two people.

We used one of our ski poles as measuring stick

to maintain a consistent four feet radius

through the building process.

The saw is a basic 15 inch wood cutting saw.

It is lightweight and perfect for cutting

snow blocks an firewood.

The walls were going to be about a foot thick,

which was easy to keep consistent,

when cutting the blocks with a 15 inch saw.

A one foot thick wall also gives plenty of insulation.

First, we used the cut-out crust blocks to build a base.

We then cut the first set of actual blocks from inside

the igloo, lowering the floor to below the snow surface.

Once one floor layer of blocks was cut out from inside

the igloo, we left the sleeping areas at that level

and continued cutting out the trench from the center of

the floor and out through the entrance opening.

The entrance would ideally be a fully below the

snow surface for better heat retention.

But not being that cold this time, we built

it a little higher to make it easier

to enter and exit the igloo.

Music: Sequence of Art, by Origen Music. http://www.origenmusic.com

The blocks need to be cut and shaped

so they lock in smoothly to the mating surfaces,

and any gaps between blocks need to be filled,

in order for the blocks to stay in place.

Also, make sure that you smooth out the inside walls.

You can do this during the construction,

or once the igloo is completed.

This is to prevent any melt water dripping

on your sleeping bags and other gear.

When compacting the snow for the blocks, it is

much easier when the snow is wet, as it was today.

Last time we built a wilderness igloo, it was

below freezing and the snow was dry and powdery.

After packing the snow, we had to wait much longer for

the snow to recrystallize and harden up, and the

blocks were still fragile and more difficult to handle.

Today it took us three hours to build this igloo,

but we started early in the day, and we were in no rush.

If you are building an igloo with dry snow,

be prepared to spend much longer time completing it!

I had my GoPro 4 camera recording the process but

the batteries did not last as long as I thought they would

So I didn't get any video footage

of the final part of the construction.

We were both able to work independently for most

of the construction. But once the walls started leaning

inward at a steeper angle, we worked together

block by block, completing the ceiling.

One person holding the block

while the other person locked it in.

The ceiling ended up being more than six feet

off the floor, tall enough for us to stand inside.

Ok, we completed the igloo, let's take a look inside!

We added a vent hole off to the side, up in the ceiling.

Igloos require some air circulation,

to prevent suffocation.

We stayed warm and dry, and slept well all night

in our zero degree sleeping bags.

Thank you for watching our wilderness

igloo construction video!

Hopefully you enjoyed it. Have a great day!

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