in this video I'll show you how I made this rustic storage chest made from
reclaimed wood for this build I used some old barn would have had up on the
lumber rack in my shop for some time now just waiting for a project like this
these are tongue and groove boards about 3/4 of an inch thick I started by rough
cutting all my pieces at the miter saw cutting them close to their final length
but leaving a little extra I find it a lot easier to manage my lumber this way
especially if I'm going to make rip cuts on my table saw
unfortunately most of the tongues and grooves have from the boards were
damaged during the demolition process so I decided to cut them off I started by
removing all the tongues and then flip the boards on the other edge so I could
rip them down to three inches with all the board's I mentioned I mean the final
cuts to the exact lengths I needed using a stop block on my miter saw
when you're done you'll have a lot of wood for details on all the measurements
and the cut list for this project check out my written article I'll leave a link
in the description below before assembling the walls you'll need to make
a custom spacer that's the exact same size as the thickness of your wood to do
this I use the leftover piece of wood to set my fence then cut the spacer each
wall is made up of five boards stacked together once you find a layout you're
happy with use the spacer to align the boards and square them up I place
another piece on top of the board's lining up the outside edge with the edge
of the spacer and then secure the boards with some Brad nails and then repeated
the same process on the other side alright so here's one of the walls fully
assembled I did the same for all four walls lining up the boards with a spacer
and securing with Brad nails making sure to stay clear from the spacer
before going any further with the reclaimed wood I made a simple base
using 2x2 pine wood the base will be hidden so no need to use anything fancy
here again you can find all the measurements in the written article
that'll be linked in the description below
I first made some pilot holes using a countersink bit then I simply assemble
the corners using some screws making sure to use a speed square to get the
corners nice and square it's also a good idea to pre-drill some pilot holes on
the inside of the base frame so it'd be easier to attach later on with the four
individual balls assembled building the trunk as a matter of standing them up
and making a box I started by checking that all the panel's fit with the base
then remove three of the panels so I could attach the panel's one by one to
make things easier I first put in a few Brad nails from the outside then I screw
the base in from the inside have I told you how much I love this palm driver I
repeated the same process for each of the walls one by one first
adding Brad nails from the outside and then screwing the base in from the
inside alright so this is what it looks like when all the walls are assembled
okay so next I install the floorboards I simply laid them flat and secured them
to the 2x2 base using my nail gun
to join the wall panels together I'm using these metal corner braces you
could also use pocket hole screws or other methods but I like the look of the
visible hardware that being said I wanted all my hardware to be black so I
first coated the corner braces with some black spray-paint and then mounted them
to each corner with some screws making sure to push the panels together and
close that gap
to make the lid I decided to use concealed pocket screws I measured and
marked on the underside of the board's where I would make the pocket holes I
then used my mini crab jig to make all the holes
I lately clamped all the boards together then put in the pocket screws I'm adding
some decorative support pieces to hide the pocket screws and since they're just
decorative I simply nailed them into place using my
brad nailer
and used three inch black hinges to attach the lid to the trunk I didn't
have much of a surface so I decided to add an extra board across the back to
better support the hinges I cut the board to size added a bead of glue and
simply clamped it into place before securing it with Brad nails next I
traced out where I wanted the hinge to sit and use the chisel to countersink
the hinge so it would sit flush with the top of the wood from this process I
learned that I really need to practice my chiseling skills after making some
pilot holes I screwed the hinges to the chest then had a little help so I could
screw in the hinges to the lid
you
to make the handles I decided to repurpose an all leather belt
I cut out to eight inch strips using a utility knife to attach the handles I
place two strips of tape as guidelines spacing them about half an inch closer
together than the length of the leather to create a small hump
next I moved on to the latch first finding the center of the chest and
marking it up I need to make a few custom adjustments to fit the latch and
I used my flush cut saw to do this next I simply screwed the latch to the lid
and now my chest will accommodate a padlock although really I just like the
look all right almost done but before calling this a wrap
I used my standard to round over and smooth all of the edges
I also touched up all the visible screws with some black paint I also wanted a
way to hold the lid upright when open I wasn't sure the best way to do this but
I simply screwed in a piece of rope to both the inside of the lid and the side
of the chest and it seems to be working out pretty good I hope you enjoyed this
build I'd love to hear what you think so feel free to let me know in the comments
below thanks for watching
For more infomation >> New downtown establishment hoping to build a future by embracing the past - Duration: 1:50. 
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