what's going on everyone? Time to build another PC this time around that will be
showing you step-by-step how to do social for those who are new to PC
builds all together or who maybe need a refresher this video will come in very
handy also we chose very budget oriented components we expect that most newbies
out there aren't going to want to splurge on the most expensive hardware
for their first PC build I totally get that my first PC cost around 600 bucks
that's what I'm gonna do in this video build a PC that cost well around 600
bucks I hope you enjoy here starts the tutorial
so quick run-through of the parts of things you will need to assemble your
first PC obviously only other components to actually make the PC work properly
gonna TP you or Ram the motherboard graphics card also might need some sort
of storage drive preferably a case just kind of Rob dogging it outside of a case
isn't very cool doesn't look very cool unless you're throwing it in a desk or
something so I recommend a case and you're going to also need a power supply
you can also get fancy and throw some RGB LEDs in there extra fans that's all
optional but to make your PC work these are the five or six components you will
definitely need now the one tool you're going to need is a Phillips head
screwdriver this won't be included in any of the boxes from the components you
purchase for the PC so when having one on hand it's good to have one just in
general anyway a decent sized Phillips head screwdriver also magnetized it if
you can don't worry it's not gonna fry any of your components I don't know why
crap like that just gets flooded in forums but you're not gonna find the
magnetic fields and these things are really weak okay you just need something
strong enough to get those screws that are really tight places if you do happen
to drop one or two a pair of needlenose pliers might be handy to get small
things into small spaces as well and if you do intend on using zip ties or tie
straps scissors or wire cutters could also come in handy alright let's start
taking things out of their boxes and assembling our PC the first thing I want
to do is take your motherboard out of its box you could use the motherboard
box as a workstation so rest it on top of that you won't worry about scratching
anything underneath if you have maybe a block of wood or something you're not
worried about getting scratched because there are pretty fine and sharp
soldering points underneath the board then you could use something all his
lines but I would say the box for the motherboard is preferable in our most
situations you'll want to take note of where the DIMM slots are those are to
the right side of the CPU socket to see if you socket obviously is in the middle
at the top of the board and then we've our PCIe slots down below now remove
your cpu from it's a box don't worry this is not rocket science just don't
drop the CPU on anything this is the pga layout so the pins are on the CPU itself
you bend any of these and you're gonna have a really bad time be mindful of the
triangle indicated on the CPU one of the four corners there you will want to line
this up with the marking on one of the four corners of the motherboard socket
this is basically the orientation of the CP it'll only fit one way so don't force
anything go ahead and pull up on that metal lever there at the bottom this
will open the socket up we can rest our CPU gently inside the socket like so and
then once we're sure that stationary we're not pushing anything too hard then
you can take that metal lever again slide it right back
and there you go you've just installed a CPU into your first computer now the
next thing I want to do is install your DDR 3 or 4 we're using rise ins of ddr4
it is and those slots on the right side of the socket are the things we need to
be mindful of it recommend installing Ram first over your CPU cooler because
sometimes you might have clearance issues although we're going to be using
the stock rise and cooler here so nothing to worry about go ahead and grab
your RAM and take note of the notch in each module you want to line this notch
up with the indention inside each dim slot on your motherboard our motherboard
indicates the optimal ram insertion pattern we have two modules so it does
matter to an extent if we had four modules it would matter which module we
put it into which slot because it does say that the second for the slot to the
left is the first slot we should be mindful of we're gonna be mindful of
that one pull back on the levers on that one also the levers on the furthest
right slot that's where dim 2 goes now ram insertion takes a bit of force okay
I'm just gonna be straightforward with you here you're not gonna break anything
as long as you've aligned that notch with the indention in the slot first
you'll want to gently slide the module into the slot just enough to where you
start feeling some pretty intense resistance then take two fingers one on
each side of the module push really hard till one side engages all the way and
then push hard until the other side engages then the levers on each side
should be up all the way and you've installed a ram slot there you go I
probably over explained it but I don't need to feel like you're breaking
anything do the exact same thing by the way for the second module if you have
two more or four more doesn't matter as long as you have enough slots for them
go ahead and repeat the process a CP fuller installation is entirely
subjective really depends on the CPU cooler you chose and how long that takes
is again dependent on the product but we're going to use the stock rising
cooler so things shouldn't take well maybe a minute or two we're going to
need to remove the two black brackets on top of the backplate on the motherboard
it's just for simple Phillips head screws and that's it now once that's
removed we want to keep the backplate still in the motherboard poking through
the four holes take the CPU cooler which already has that pre applied thermal
paste and kind of align it with the holes on the board there are already
screws kind of threaded through the CPU cooler so just use your Phillips head
screwdriver to secure the cooler in place the last thing here be sure to
install the CPU fan cable to the respective header on the board it's
usually labeled CPU underscore one or along those lines and will be close to
the CPU socket just conveniently now some motherboards very few but some will
not even post or allow you to boot into your OS unless
you have a CPU fan connected to that CPU header I think an asus board ahead did
that I thought it was really weird because I'm like what what if your water
cooling and you plug your pump in there it's really all you can do or just like
a case fan but yeah so just do it just to be safe you can plug it into like I'm
on a chassis fan one or something along those lines but CPU fan header is the
one that I would try to plug in first someone just looked inside my window I
have it open because why not and they were wondering what I'm doing in here
alright so we have our motherboard with the CPU RAM and CPU cooler all installed
it's pretty much the bulkier system although rice and CPUs are not a POS
meaning they don't have integrated graphics processors so you can't just
plug an HDMI cable into your motherboard and say hey this pcs gonna work now
that's just not how it works Intel CPUs equivalent until CPUs do have integrated
graphics processors albeit they're pretty weak but at least you get a
picture from them with their eyes and CPUs you will need to screen graphics
that's just how it is that's also why the CPUs are so cheap which is a good
thing you can pretty much grab this bulk of hardware now with the CPU cooler only
because it's installed correctly I'm assuming that it's installed correctly
double check that before you pick everything up buy it we're gonna use
this little handle of sorts here makeshift handle to allow us to install
our motherboard into our computer case in this case I have chosen a p300 from
fantex a really great budget oriented case that does come with tempered glass
and integrated RGB LEDs comes in around 60 bucks or so and it does support ATX
motherboards go ahead and lay your case in downward with the left side facing
upward toward your ceiling reach into your motherboard box and pull out that
trusty rear i/o shield this thing is a major pain but it does keep things nice
and clean back here go ahead and install it with the you know the colorful side
facing outward toward the back of the case you don't want this installed
backwards or upside down because then your motherboard installations are gonna
go very well you're gonna want to pop this into place with just a lot of force
you just kind of hammer it there I mean you're not gonna break an i/o shield
unless you do something really absurd but make sure it clicks on all four
corners and then we can get to installing the motherboard into the case
go ahead and use the CPU cooler as makeshift handle and kind of guide it
through into where it should be you can use this stand off right here most of
the time is like a guide of sorts if it's threading through this hole then
you've pretty much got it where it should be also you can use the rear i/o
openings as guides to you know double check that everything is where it should
be now use these Gru's that should have been included
with your case to secure the motherboard you might need eight you might need nine
if you have a full sized ATX board it really depends that middle standoff
there might not be threaded in this case it is so we're going to use a nine
screws in total you can slow down this time lapse by the way if you want a
better indication of where each of these holes in the board is where the screws
should be going there should be three at the bottom either two or three running
right through the middle and then three up top at this point go ahead and set
your case on its feet I recommend doing the meticulous wiring now because
installing the power supply can make things a bit more funky later on because
if so many cables running through the back side of the case so your front I Oh
connectors you'll have like maybe a power switch power LED hard drive LED
and a reset switch you'll want to install those very first because of the
smallest cables if you check out my cable management guide here I talked
about how I like to cable manage my pcs I start with the smallest cables first
and then I use the thickest ones at the end to kind of smoosh those thinner
cables against the case and keep things nice and tidy all right now I've got my
trusty whiteboard here to help better explain the front IO connection process
which tends to be a place where people get tripped up if you miss wire this you
might not have a PC that boots up always especially people and I'm using the
power button itself as the physical means to turn the PC on rather than
jumping it with I don't know like a Phillips head screwdriver or something
which I'll talk about a second so find the place on the board indicated jfp one
that's usually what it's labeled as you're going to have kind of a box it
looks like this somewhere on the bottom of your board and you'll have one two
three four pins on the top and one two three four five pins on the bottom there
shouldn't be a pin in this location now typically the upper most left pins here
are for power LEDs these are usually disconnected cables or not conjoined
like the power switch is and be mindful of course of the positive and negative
polarities here your motherboard will tell you which is which it's not gonna
matter really for your power switch because it's just you know you're just
completing a circuit but here polarity does matter so I recommend checking your
manual look for something like jf you want in your manual double check that
that this array is the same as what I'm showing you because this should be more
or less a refresher not a rule of thumb for every motherboard out there again
power switch should be here you don't have to worry about polarity but you
know just do it the way they tell you to anyway these two will typically be for
your hard drive LED it'll typically be labeled like HDD led
and then these two are for your reset switch again this is just a completion
circuit so there's no polarity to be mindful of here although it's typically
labeled positive negative actually in some cases it's negative positive I
don't know why it doesn't matter like I said but the LED ones do matter and in
our p300 case we only have to worry about the power switch and the hard
drive LED make sure you line this one correctly and this one is installed in
the correct two pins there's no pin over here remember so that's kind of your
rule of thumb and you should be alright alright that was probably the most
difficult part of pc building they're just the very small cables to get right
if you have HD audio coming from your front panel make sure to connect that to
your motherboard as well that's typically on the bottom left side of the
motherboard be mindful USB 2.0 this is all unlisted the manual and the pins are
all labeled typically they're labeled in the cases from the front IO and then we
also have USB 3.0 to be mindful of those are the blue tipped headers and again
it's like you know it's like a puzzle it just it fits where it fits and you'll
know where USB 3.0 is because it's the only place where that cable will go
alright now that the small wiring is done let's go ahead and install our
solid state and/or hard disk drives this is just a preferential thing you could
run the operating system on either if you want to run and hard drive config
along with an SSD config maybe have your boot drive on the SSD and like general
storage on the hard drive that's pretty cool you get a lot of storage for cheap
with a hard drive although it's not the quietest and the SSD gives you the
really fast boot times here I've only chosen a single 240 gig SSD from a pn
wise xlr8 brand it's still the really great SSD it's not a lot of storage but
it's gonna be super snappy and if you're only looking to play a few games this
should be sufficient next you've grabbed a SATA cable it'll look something like
this and connect it to your drive of choice if you have more than one job
you'll need more than one SATA cable your motherboard should include at least
a few of these and then connect the other ends of each into your motherboard
and two headers that look like this they should snap into place you'll know when
they're properly installed now at this point you might be wondering why I
haven't yet installed my power supply it's just how I do things it keeps the
cable management like I said a bit easier for me it's just a personal
preference really though you can install your graphics card at this point or you
can install the power supply just to keep you from getting really impatient
let's go ahead and stall the power supply now and then we'll deal with the
graphics card last in this case we've got a v6 50 from coolermaster it is a
fully modular power supply with black sleeve cables and it is
80 plus gold rated so 650 watts is actually severe overkill for the system
the system is gonna be utilizing just the bare-bones amount of power here I'd
say maybe around 150 to 200 watts peak and it's because the graphics card shows
of the GTX 1050 which doesn't even need a dedicated VGA power cable go ahead and
install the modular cables you will need you'll definitely need a 24 pin either
for eight and EPS cable ATS for the CPU power at the top left of your
motherboard you may need a VGA cable or two it's a six or eight pin cable or
both depending on the graphics card you chose but we went with the gtx 1050
which requires no dedicated VGA power cable at all in fact we're gonna be
running this entire card off of just as 75 watts or so delivered from the PCIe
slot on the board also be mindful of how many SATA connections you'll need and
any molex connections if those are in your case some older hardware will
typically use molex but for the most part SATA will be all you need I think
in this case we only need a two or three SATA connections for our one SSD and one
for our integrated case lighting that is just a cable that runs directly from the
front IO of the p300 and that's it now I recommend having a few extra SATA
connections just kind of laying around not being used in case you do want to
install an extra driver too later on it means that you won't have to pull your
power supply completely out your system to install an extra set of SATA power
connections for the future the last two things we need to power are our
motherboard via the 24 pin and our CPU via the 8 pin EPS port up top our
graphics card remember does not have a dedicated VGA power port so we don't
have a 6 or 8 pin on the board itself it's all being powered through the PCIe
slot so go ahead and grab first the a pin eps cable it's a long one with 8
pins on it go ahead and run that up the right side of the case thread it through
the hole and then when you turn the case around looking at it from the left side
of the panel the top left side of the motherboard will have either 4 or 8 pin
port there connect that cable to that port that's a basically CPU power is
what that's for dedicated CPU power if you don't have that connected your CPU
won't post or it might post but it won't do anything
the last thing for us the 24 pin it's pretty straightforward just make sure
you align the indention on the port itself with the little thread and the
clip on the 24 pin cable now at this point because all power cables are
connected I recommend a cable managing do your best to kind of make things look
clean back here ok if you ever need to go back into the right side of your case
you want it to look clean and presentable
then you know where everything is you know where to put everything back you
don't have to worry about kind of smooshing that right side panel on we
all know how that is or the so we've been doing this a while we have a really
crappy case with crappy cable management space on the right side it can be it can
be a real pain to have to get that right side panel back into position
now at this point we need to install the graphics card and that's it finished
with the PC build this is a pretty straightforward process but you might be
wondering why there's no PCI slot brackets or frames in the back of this
case it's because they installed a Coolermaster vertical graphics card
mount here before prior and I had to cut through the case so it's gonna look a
bit weird first off to have a really small card mounted horizontally this
this is gonna cost a bit more if you want to orient the card vertically we're
about to do it's about 50 bucks or so with the riser cable included from
coolermaster it's all linked in the video description by the way but that's
why I'm doing this because the card is so small and it looks a bit weird to
have an ATX case with a really really small form-factor graphics card if you
want to install your graphics card horizontally don't worry it's pretty
conventional in fact most people do that and it eliminates the risk of having a
really crappy riser cable cut into your frame rate or not allow your PC to post
at all so it's a safer bet but if you want the
aesthetic look you can go with the vertical mount but for the horizontal
mount all you need to do is push back on the lever on the right side of the
uppermost 16-lane slot and I push it into the motherboard a bit it'll kind of
click then you'll know it's pushed all the way back clear out the two slot
covers on the right side the case that align with that slot that's 16-way
installed on the board and then slide the card into place it should snap back
there you go take the two thumb screws in the back of the case secure it
upright and you've installed a graphics card if you had a six or eight pin or
two six pins or two eight pins or whatever connected to the graphics card
use those VGA power connections on the power supply to power the card it's
sexually supplemental power but this card doesn't need it because it's a
really weak card now if you want to install your graphics card vertically
with the cooler master kit I have a tutorial right here pretty
straightforward didn't take you about five or six minutes to do just need a
pair of wire cutters to cut through those PCIe frames there at the back of
the case I'm kind of showing it time-lapse now if the process I had to
go through after the cutting which I had done way in advance and here you go
here's the final result what it all looks like when it's said and done and
put together now for the final test we're gonna connect our PC to a monitor
and see if it posts make sure you connect the HDMI cable or the
DisplayPort cable whatever cable you're using to the graphics card
like this not into the motherboard those HDMI ports and whatnot on the
motherboard for rice and CPUs are for the AP use which rise in cpus by
convention are not they don't have integrated chips remember for graphics
so we need to plug them into our graphics card to get a signal to our
monitor once that's connected and the monitor is powered go ahead and plug in
the power cable that came with your power supply into the back of your pc
and into a wall outlet preferably via surge protector just to be safe and then
flick the switch on the back of the power supply into the on position and
then click the power button at the frontier pc you should get some fans
turning if you have installed leds and whatnot then you should see some lights
and hopefully your pc is working the way it should and you get a post to your
monitor usually to indicate your motherboard manufacturer and ask if you
want to go into your bios or if you want to boot from a particular drive in this
case we only have one drive so it's gonna try to boot from that until we
install an operating system to that drive though it's just gonna keep boot
looping now at this point step back from the screen and look at your computer you
built that thing that's your baby you brought it to life it's breathing now
you can see a response on-screen it's like it's talking to you and you know
just just admire it just take a step back and say yeah I built that feels
good to do things by hand right well ladies and gentlemen I hope for those of
you who are new out there this video just amped you up made you want to build
a PC that much more because now you see how easy it is right so you can say I
built my computer and that sounds really complicated and makes you sound super
smart but in reality it's a really simple process and that's kind of why I
jumped on this bandwagon a while back and said I'm gonna do this for a living
I really like building pcs it's really fun and its really simple to know the
custom loops and stuff gets but more complicated this thing back here was not
the easiest thing to build but a simple air-cooled PC with six or seven
components will take you maybe three or four hours if you're a new timer I would
say that you could probably knock that down to about an hour if you've been
doing this multiple times and I will warn you right now it is an addicting
process if you like this video be sure to give this one a thumbs up I
appreciate that be sure to give a thumbs down if you feel complete opposite or
you hate everything about life I guess I'll go ahead and throw that in there be
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live this is science to do check out all the parts of this build in the video
description thanks for learning
For more infomation >> BUILD A WALL AROUND THE CONTINENT OF AFRICA. - Duration: 10:17. 
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