Auto news on Youtube Jul 8 2018

hey everyone my name is Matt welcome to my backyard and welcome back to the

series I'm doing I'm building this big bandsaw mill! It's been a while! If this

is your first time here, there will be a link up in the cards and down the description to

all the videos that I'll bring you up to where we are right now and speaking of

it's been a while in the last video it took apart

basically the entire saw head so I can get the guards off and get to the beam

so I get everything painted and I started reassembling things. That video took

place last August it is now the following June. The mill has been sitting

under the tarp that a whole time as I've been putting off finishing up the work

on this thing so in this video we're going to kind of keep going with the

theme of putting things back together and I'm also going to start working on

some things that I kind of glossed over and simplified and skipped as I was

building the mill because I was really more interested in getting this thing

operational so getting all the logs cut and out of my driveway then making everything as

perfect or as properly done as I had in my mind. So let's jump into it! So one of

the first things I want to take care of is adding the stops for the carriage so

right now there's nothing that stops the carraige from rolling off the end of the

track and what I typically do is grab a c-clamp. It clamps of the rail and that

acts as a functional stop that prevents the carriage from going past that point

but of course that needs to be a little more not temporarily permanent so I'll make

some little stops to go on to the end of the track and have this piece of two by

two quarter wall angle this is an off cut from when I made my outdoor

fireplace. So that's been sitting around for like four years already

that'll be perfect for a little stop. I can cut a few pieces about four inches

long drill some mounting holes in there and then mount them to the end of the

rails. Now the reality is you only really need

for one side because if one side hasn't stops the other side isn't going to go

past it anyway I'm gonna go ahead and make for one for each corner just in

case might give you some more options for some more things in the future I

don't know what but at least they'll be tenant they're all the way and if I need

to remove them because they're in the way how I saw the ones on the other side

it's like changing I want to take care of these now because they have a few

other things that need to get painted so if I get this things made I can kind of

put those in with the batch of stuff that's gonna get painted they kind of

consolidate things that hopefully save a little bit of time and effort

so here is the first batch of painted parts are we putting on the mill so I

have these stops which I just made I also have the lower thrust bearing

supports for the lift mechanism and the bearing caps the motor electrical box

and this little just there post that holds the adjustment arm for the blade

guides so I'm gonna start by installing a little stops here so I can finally

remove my temporary / permanent stop which is the C clamp it's been out here

for like 18 months and install the actual stop onto the track here so now

there is a permanent stop here so as the carriage comes down the track the

upright will contact this stop and I won't be able to go past the end of the

track thereby you know falling off of the whole track now this doesn't really

get used that often this is more like an emergency stops so no real reason to put

any kind of padding on here anything really should be contacting this during

normal operation as you're coming back and forth on the mill and last something

gets away from you and this is more like an emergency stop so something bad

doesn't end up happening so the next thing they go back on is this adjustment

support post this is gonna get bolted on to the beam and that's actually gonna

hold the adjustment post down here which operates the blade guide on the idle

side so this used to be welded to the beam the life of this whole thing apart

I did disconnect this thing and I did drill holes through it before I actually

cut it free that way things will stay aligned after the hole bolting on

process so I have some pilot holes in the beam already so I'll have to do now

is just enlarge them to the right size and tap them for the bolts

so we need to start working on getting the lift mechanism back installed and

that's gonna start off with installing these bearing plates on the bottom of

those little platforms down there where that kind of temporary support is right

now but it's gonna be kind of hard to actually tap and drill the holes with

the guards there so I wanted to remove the guards but before I remove the

guards I want to replace these little latches

that I installed last time and as you can see they do not hold up very well to

the forces that I need to be there to keep these doors onto the actual guard

assembly so I want to replace these with something a little more durable so I got

these all-weather kind of rubber draw straps which should be able to provide a

lot more clamping force to the guard doors keep those things in place and

yeah I'm not too worried about the hooks he's only like a couple bucks maybe a

dollar to a piece he's a little more than me like seven dollars a piece but

should provide a much better result than what I have right now

so these straps are a lot better than those latches I had on there previously

so I'm pretty happy about that so next I want to start working towards getting

this whole lift mechanism back in there and to make the whole process easier I'm

going to strip off all of the guards and while I'm taking things off of here I'm

gonna pull off these PV and can't talk holders that way I have those things

kind of in the pile for the things they're gonna get painted for the next

round of things they're gonna be painted

whatever that I remember

so now I'm ready estar working towards getting the whole lift mechanism

reinstalled which starts off by installing these bearing holders at the

bottom there onto those platforms were those posts that are currently

supporting the beam are sitting so before I can get to install these

bearing holder plate support things whatever you want to call these things

thrust bearing support plates something like that I have to remove the temporary

posts so I have to find a different way to support this beam temporarily

it's before I move these last year I did Center punch the hole locations so I can

get this thing back into exactly the same position to make sure those lifting

rods are aligned so now I have to do just find the punch holes from like

months and months ago and then drill and tap those holes so this side looks like

he's only gonna get two bolts because this adjuster post support is in the

ways I can't drill back to the mounting holes back here cuz that's in the way

but it doesn't really matter because these bolts is kind of keep the bearing

plate kind of in place once there is weight on top of it from the saw head

sitting on it it doesn't go anywhere I just have to resist any kind of torque

or anything because the bearings take care of that it's really just getting

bolted here so that kind of as you're putting this thing together this play

doesn't kind of walk around on you

and while I'm over here also reattached the nut retainers which hold the Acme

nuts which are part of the lift system

and keeps looking like it's gonna rain again today

it was raining this morning and then it's been raining on and off all

afternoon but I kind of want to get started on this and of course it's a

plane flying overhead now but anyway so this morning I took the step shafts and

the ackee rods and got the keyways cut into them so a big THANK YOU to Carson

for helping me out with that he used his mill to cut all those key

ways for me so we cut the key ways in both ends of the Acme rod to made up

with those couplers don't to worry about those set screws trying to grab and slip

anymore and they also replaced the key ways that I had ground with an angle

grinder into the step shaft so I have actual proper fitting key ways in those

as well so again big Thank You Carson I really appreciate you having me out to

the shop so I have all the parts I need now I can start reassembling the lift

system so first thing I go in are the bearings sit into the bearing holders

there and then I have this cover that I made which would go on top of there and

hope to protect the bearings and keep them free of sawdust now one thing that

I was planning on doing which it's not gonna work out anymore is I did pick up

some bellows for the Acme rods to keep them clean but the inner diameter on

these guys are too small to fit around the couplers apparently so I have to

order some new ones and I don't really feel like waiting for new ones to come

in to keep going with this so I'll have to take this apart and redo that at some

point but that's alright I'll just have to wash these things a little bit better

because the bellows is going to help to keep everything super clean

so to keep sadhus and stuff out of the bearings let's go we'll ring here which

will slide on to the step shaft and now help kind of seal things up against that

cover hey can you slip down there like that and that should help to keep a

little bit more on the clean side

so now I can move on to the top section of the lifting columns and one of the

things I need to do here is actually cut these shafts down to their final lengths

when I originally installed these I just left them long just in case I want to do

something above the carriage system but now that I have the designs finalized

I know that I can trim them down to their actual final length which is to be

flush or roughly flush with the top of the carriage just enough material to

pass through the bearing at the very top of the carriage

and another thing I'm going to do is weld a nut to the top side of the drive

side lift I previously only have one of these on one side but having a nut you

can grab with a wrench or with a socket on both sides will make aligning the

beam a lot easier because you'll be able to operate both sides independently

before linking it with the chain

so here is the driven side the lift mechanism so it has the two sprockets

one that links it to the other side and the one that links it to the motor which

actually does all of the driving force to actually lift the saw head up and

down and one thing I'm going to do over here is push out the size of the drive

sprocket so on the motor right now I have a 13-2 sprocket and then I used to

have this 33 tooth sprocket on here which gave me way more reduction that

actually needed the motor technically has enough torque to drive it out of one

to one so I'm going to swap these 33 tooth sprocket for a 22 to Brock it

which will speed up the travel the lift mechanism and still give the motor a bit

of a mechanical advantage so there's not the work nearly as hard so I take care

of the lift mechanism and I think the last thing I want to take care of in

this video has to do with the base I want to take care of that now before I

start adding weight to the saw head so the issue with the base is two things is

I'm gonna take care of and solve here so first off the saw itself is too close to

my shed that's just happened to be how this whole setup works because when I

built this mill this was all logs right here so I didn't have anywhere to go

except right here it's too close to the shed right now so if I had the saw head

back to where I am right now I can only raise the head about I think

three feet before contacts the fascia board on this shed there which is

something that I totally forgot about one time I had the saw had parked

underneath there I start lifting the saw head up and saw had contacted the fascia

on the shed and luckily I had noticed six I hear all the cracking creaking

there's an airplane flying overhead again but I ran over there and turn it

off quick but that something's been on my mind for a long time so I want to

reposition the saw a little bit is gonna get me a better approach angle to coming

down the driveway I'll be a little more in line with the trailer as it comes

down the driveway the other thing is my idea on these leveling feet

was kind of flawed I guess to begin with so I used to have the bolts up on these

little stainless steel pads which would help distribute the weight of the saw on

to my asphalt driveway and I thought that having the bolt heads on top of

here would be kind of nice because if I need to change the the leveling feet at

all you know steel on a steel would turn a lot easier than me trying to turn a

whole solid piece into the ground and lift up that way so low friction that

was a good thing with the leveling part bad thing with that is that low friction

if any load is applied or any kind of pull force is applied to the saw bed at

all like as I am when I'm pulling logs on to the mill it's really easy to have

the whole bed just slide and what ended up happening a lot of times these things

slide and fall off fizzle pads and land in the driveway and then start sinking

so that's why I added these concrete blocks just in case these these both did

slide off they wouldn't fall through my driveway and it also gave me a little

more height because I figured if I'm gonna be adding the hydraulic stuff to

this I'm gonna need a little more ground clearance than I had previously and just

being a little bit higher meant that the last boards off the mill you weren't

bending over nearly as far which is kind of a nice thing so my plan for the

living feet is gonna go something like this all of the discs are gonna get a

hole drilled in them and then a pin installed that's gonna go into a hole in

the bottom or I guess the top of the bolt the bottom of the foot or whatever

that's going to lock the two pieces together so this slide is one piece like

a little more friction up against weirdest thing is sitting on which is

going to be kind of nice I'm also going to drill the hole in the bolt a little

oversized so that way I can't take up any misalignment if the mound the ground

isn't totally flat or whatever so there's a little bit of play

side-to-side this hole isn't deep enough at the moment but while I move the whole

bed over I'll have the whole thing off the ground a little bit now I'm going to

take all the bolts out sequentially drill the holes and then get the new

ones installed so the good time for that and in case you're wondering why I don't

have my blocks turns long wise that's because it's a lot easier to clean out

between all of the bunks when there isn't some stuff in the way I always get

the comment about dust collection and the stuff coming

the shoot why I don't put down a bag or collect it or do anything with that the

truth is the stuff that comes and makes it out of the chute as the easiest stuff

to clean up guys grab a snow shovel and I just felt my wheelbarrow with that

stuff I'm gonna be out here anyway the longest and the most ridiculous amount

of time spent out here doing cleanup after milling is getting rid of all the

stuff that ends up underneath the bed so the blocks oriented the way they are

right now kind of across the width of the bed dust so allows me enough space

between each block to kind of slip a shovel in there and get up any kind of

sawdust or any bark or any chips that might be between all the crossmembers in

the bed that's honestly the most amount of work there is when as far as cleanup

goes the stuff that comes out of the chute you know five minutes it's all

gone then you spend a half hour out here shoveling stuff up from between all the

bunks

stall I'm going to end this video here I still have two more leveling feet to

modify but I'm not super worried about that I can take care of those pretty

much whenever I made a lot of progress in this one a lot of things they're all

back together and speaking of kind of back together everything that I removed

as part of the last video when I went through and painted everything is now

pretty much back on there and now it's all about moving forward so next time

we'll take a look at the whole top section of the lift mechanism well do

all of the chain routing and the tension nerves for the chains and finish up

everything up there to complete the whole lift system so all that will come

together next time so thank you as always for watching I greatly appreciate

if any questions on the sawmill or anything back in the shop please feel

free to leave me a comment supposed to be happy answer the questions you might

have until next time happy woodworking