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Do you want to keep your custom home project on budget?

I'm going to be sharing seven tips with you to dramatically help you keep your project

on budget.

My name is Kathy Yuen.

I'm an architectural technologist, custom home designer, and founder of Phase One Design.

By the end of this video, you are going to have a solid foundation on how to keep your

custom home costs on track from the very beginning to the very end.

Be sure to subscribe below, so you don't miss any of my future videos, and also don't forget

to comment and let me know what future topics you would like to see on this channel.

Step number one, do your homework.

First off, you need to go out and find out what it is that you actually want.

I know this sounds really obvious, but this is going to go a really long way in understanding

what your costs are.

You need to know what your expectations are that you have for your custom home, so that

you can actually communicate them to the other experts that are going to be helping you put

your budget together.

Just start by making a list.

Here's some items to capture: how many bedrooms?

How many bathrooms?

What other rooms are you looking to have?

Home office, gym, formal dining room, wok kitchen, a craft room, the list goes on.

How many stories would you like your house to be?

Your garage, how big is it?

Is it an attached garage or is it a detached garage?

Then when you have that, start gathering photos of what it is that you expect your house to

look like, both on the inside and on the outside.

Why is this important?

Well, again, we're going to cover this in the next step, but when you're sitting down

with an expert, you are now going to be able to have a solid way to communicate all of

this information to them that is not so arbitrary as just saying, "I would like a 3,000 square

foot home that is modern."

Step two, get a realistic budget range.

Okay, so everybody wants to know, "How much does my custom home cost to the dollar, ideally?"

At this point, it's just totally not realistic to expect that, because you don't have enough

information.

What you want to do is actually get a range, and by range what I mean is you are going

to get a range out there that is a low range and a high range.

So your price for your custom home, and how much your custom home is going to cost, is

going to fall within a low range and a high range.

How do you do that?

You would approach two different experts: a designer and a builder.

So first, a designer.

Why would you need to talk to a designer?

Well, a lot of people actually miss this stuff.

The reason why you want to talk to a designer, is your designer is going to be able to tell

you based on all the homework that you've done in step one, how big of a house that

you actually need square footage wise.

The size of your house very, very closely relates to what the budget is, so you need

to know what that number is square footage wise.

Also, very experienced designers will be able to sit down with you and do a preliminary

costing exercise with you to give you a high level idea of what your budget range should

be.

The second person to talk to is obviously a builder.

A builder is obviously well experienced in custom home costs, and are going to be able

to give you some insight into what your cost for your home will be.

Because this is such a popular topic, I've actually written an entire guide about how

to establish a budget range for your project.

I provided a link down below.

You can download it.

It is called The Step-By-Step Guide to Planning Your Custom Home.

Now, notice I said, "get a realistic budget."

The keyword there is "realistic."

What's going to end up happening, is you're going to go out there, you're going to talk

to a whole bunch of different people, and I promise you, you are going to get a whole

bunch of different numbers.

You know to expect a range, but what happens when you actually have that?

This is a good segue into our next topic.

Step number three, don't just focus on the lowest price.

Unfortunately, this is what I see a lot of.

A homeowner will go out there, and they will get the range of pricing.

They'll get their low and their high, but after that, the only price that they focus

on is the very lowest price, and then they base their entire project on that number.

That, my friends, is definitely not the way to do it.

If for whatever reason you're not comfortable with that low/high range, and you must, must,

must stick to the bottom end of that range, I'm going to give you some advice right now.

I would seriously, seriously consider just taking a step back, and rethinking the scope

of your project.

For example, how big do you want your house?

You're going to have to adjust something in your scope to actually reduce it, or your

budget needs to come up.

Until you've done that, please do not go any further.

I know this isn't what you want to hear me say, but I'd rather say it to you now than

see you run into trouble later on.

You want to always make sure that you're leaving yourself a little bit of wiggle room for sure,

and that you're not always so tight on your budget at the very beginning.

Which takes us to step number four.

Step number four, build in a contingency.

With every custom home project, there should be a contingency.

At the very beginning, start with a large one, as much as 20 to 30%.

As you start firming up your plans and start doing some selections, that contingency can

go down slightly, but make sure you have one to begin with.

Secondly, do not spend that contingency.

During design, I promise you, you are going to be exposed to a lot of shiny things that

you're going to want to put in your design as you surf design magazines, and surf online

design images.

You are going to find all these things, but whatever you do, don't spend your contingency.

It is like your rainy day fund, your backup plan, everything like that.

It is not intended to be spent on your actual project, unless you are really, really comfortable

with your custom home costs, and you feel like you have a lot of wiggle room.

I'm just curious, how much are you going to use for your contingency?

Comment below and let me know.

Step number five, leverage design to keep on budget.

This is one of my favorite tips, and one that is not commonly known.

Did you know that design controls your budget, not the builder?

As your design starts taking shape, that is actually when your budget is going to start

also taking shape.

Your budget is 100% directly related to the design of your house.

You might be thinking, "What?

What are you talking about, Kathy, that doesn't make any sense?"

Which is totally fine.

I've made a video about it, so I provided a link below.

We deep dive into it, and it's all explained, but what you need to know for the purposes

of this step is that you can control your budget through design.

Throughout the design process, you should be making sure that you're having comprehensive

budget conversations both with your designer and your builder.

Again, that emphasizes the reason why you have to work with a designer that understands

how to work with a budget during the design process.

Whatever you do, do not finish your design and then take it to a builder, and then just

cross your fingers and hope that they're going to make the budget work.

I promise you, that very, very rarely works.

Step number six, work with a designer that understands budgets.

From day one, you should be working with a designer that understands budgets.

This is going to go a long, long way for you in keeping your whole custom home costs in

check.

This is a large topic, so I've actually provided a totally different video for this.

The link is below.

Feel free to check it out.

How do you know that your custom home designer knows how to do this?

At the very, very beginning of the process, before you sign a contract with them, they

should be asking you what your budget is, and budget related questions.

This is a great telltale sign that they are going to be mindful of your budget throughout

the process, and also, ask them straight up, "How are you going to help me keep my budget

on track?"

They should be able to answer that question.

Just a super quick side note, another really cool benefit about working with a designer

that understands how to work with budgets, is that those types of designers are going

to understand custom home costs, so what that means is they're going to be able to take

your budget and stretch your dollars as far as possible, and of course, without sacrificing

quality, I'm not saying cutting corners or anything like that, but what I'm saying is

that you as the homeowner are going to get the biggest bang for your buck.

Step seven, start talking to a builder early on.

Start talking to a builder early on in the process so that they can actually help you

during the design process.

They can add to these budget conversations.

It doesn't mean that you have to sign a construction contract at this stage in the game.

Some builders will charge a low fee for this, but it's well worth your investment.

They will be giving you high-quality advice, and many builders will also do intermediate

budgets for you during design, so you can just kind of check in to see where you're

at budget wise.

You can adjust your design higher or lower depending on where that intermediate budget

stands.

Again, if you don't feel comfortable at this stage in the game, you do not need to sign

a construction contract with the builder.

Your commitment to them would only be for that piece of the contract where they're putting

those budgets together for you.

It's kind of like dating before getting married.

Now you know the exact steps for how to keep your custom home project on budget.

Don't forget to download the Step-By-Step Planning Guide below that I've written.

It outlines all of the steps that you need in order to establish that initial budget

range.

If you liked this video, please give me a thumbs up by clicking on the like button below.

Leave your comments below too, I love reading them.

And of course, don't forget to subscribe so you don't miss any of our new videos.

If you're interested in chatting more about your custom home project with my team and

I, I've also provided our contact information below.

Last but not least, a huge shout out to our friends at Maillot Homes.

We filmed in their Sydenham show home today in Mount Royal, Calgary.

They do beautiful homes.

They are awesome and one of our builder partners.

I provided a link to their contact information below as well.

Thanks everyone, and see you in the next video.

For more infomation >> Custom Home Costs: HOW TO STAY ON BUDGET When Building A New House - Duration: 11:11.

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Building a Linux PC with Ryzen ThreadRipper (+Benchmarks) - Duration: 1:07:52.

Good evening!

There is something you guys have not seen for a while.

Let's build a PC!

Déjà vu?

Déjà vu.

But before we do that,

there is something we have to address.

Because many people have suggested that –

I should not have this microphone on the table.

Because of… whatever?

I should have it on suspension or something.

I should probably do that first.

Let's do that.

And that's it.

Is that better?

I honestly can't tell,

because there are these springs –

that can generate a lot of noise.

That may not be the best solution,

but that's what you people wanted, and that's what you get.

Let's move on.

Besides the power source, we are of course going to need –

a motherboard.

The motherboard is this one.

By the way, before we go forward with this,

you probably want to know what's going on –

with the previous motherboard.

This one, that had the problem with the CPU socket.

And the answer is:

Absolutely nothing.

I haven't done anything with this after I made the video.

Because honestly,

I was prepared to count this as a loss,

and that's probably what I am going to do –

because honestly,

I don't see any way to go forward with it.

This is an Asrock X399 Taichi motherboard.

Let's open the CPU socket first.

Open, 3, 2, 1…

Actually these should be just lightly tightened –

because I didn't really tighten them beforehand.

So let's open this.

Pull this out…

And this is what it looks like,

this CPU socket that actually is proper.

I don't know if the focus is good in the camera shot…

But anyway, that's the CPU socket.

So I'm going to insert this Ryzen ThreadRipper processor.

It goes into this sled again, like so.

So it's there.

Just push it down, so it locks in the place.

It's now locked in place.

So close this lid.

One!

Until it clicks.

There.

And then number two.

Which is, number two is here.

Same procedure.

Two, and then three.

And by the way:

Some of you may have noticed humming on the background.

It is a fan sound.

That's because I have studio lights here,

and the light has a cooling fan in it.

That's what the sound is.

I could try to eliminate it in post process,

but it would also degrade my voice a little,

so I am not going to do that.

So the next thing:

Thermal paste.

This is Noctua NT-H1.

Which one is more used?

This is a little bit more used.

So here's what I am going to do:

And by the way,

many people commented on my previous video –

saying I am an idiot for applying the paste like this;

in these little dots.

Listen:

I have been assembling PCs for like 30 years.

At least 25 years.

I do know what I am doing.

But sometimes what I do does not really match –

what you have come to expect,

and what you think is the right way.

Listen: If you watch a video in the Internet,

and you see something that is different from what I do,

don't just assume that's the only possible way to do things.

Because in the Internet,

there is a lot of cargo cult going on.

And actually,

if it's specifically this thermal paste application –

that you are curious about,

look: This thermal paste was manufactured by Noctua.

And this is a SP3-TR4 socket.

Who is the authority on how to apply this thermal paste?

I would say, probably Noctua.

So have a look at this video, and then come back to comment –

that they are idiots who don't know what they are doing.

The next part is installing these screws,

where the cooler goes in.

Then on top of those screws, goes this cooler block.

This is the water cooling block.

Let's verify first that it is clean.

Verify that this surface is clean.

It's not perfect, but it will have to do.

You could get it cleaner by using some chemicals,

but I haven't looked up those chemicals,

and I don't want to accidentally use something corrosive.

That's how I play.

That is attached now.

And then tighten it up–

Actually I could already probably pluck this in.

This is the water pump motor cable.

Water pump cable is in.

Next…

Tighten the cooler up.

And the cooler is now tightened up.

The next thing is memory.

Now again,

a lot of people called me an idiot –

because I supposedly installed the memory wrong.

This is the B2 slot.

Let's insert the memory the right way.

And let's push it in.

And again a lot of people called me an idiot –

for doing things this way.

Some said I am an idiot for using just one memory stick.

Some said I should have put it here,

or in some other slot,

and I was an idiot for doing that.

Well here's the thing:

The previous video was a demonstration.

I did the minimal things to get the thing running,

because I wanted to show how the motherboard acts.

That was the topic of my video.

It was not my full desktop build.

This is my full desktop build.

Secondly,

the guys who complained I put the sticks in wrong slots,

are actually wrong.

It was exactly where the MB manufacturer recommended –

the one stick should be placed.

But here's the thing:

I don't actually have just one memory stick.

I have two.

I mean, three.

By three I mean four.

And that should probably do by now.

These are in slots B2…

Umm.

A2, B2, C2, and D2.

And this is the computer case that I am going to use –

for this computer.

But first things first:

Let's do something –

that people in the Internet seem to really enjoy doing.

I don't know why,

but people really seem to enjoy seeing this done.

And that's that.

Inside this case, if we open these screws…

we can see stuff.

And we can probably see even better,

if we take the motherboard and the cooler –

outside the view for a moment.

So move them and then open this case.

Like so.

Inside here we find a box of supplies.

"Phanteks accessory box."

Which contains:

A manual.

And, attention about RMA requests…

And a case of all kinds of screws.

And…

Whatever this is?

Let's see what it is.

This is some kind of a bracket.

I don't actually know what it is.

Probably the manual will tell.

And inside here…

Actually I should probably show the backside as well.

So the backside:

Behind here,

we have a screw that opens from here,

and another down here.

And this case just goes away.

And here inside this –

we have little space for all the wirings.

Also these are the slots for the hard drives.

And you can probably –

Yeah, you can just pull these away like this,

and they just insert.

Really cool,

and really easy to use, I believe.

I will be using those.

So first things first.

Here are some brackets –

onto which I can put the motherboard.

Here is the motherboard.

And the massive, massive cooler.

Let's just initially, carefully,

put the motherboard down there.

Also this bracket is good put there now.

I have to–

ahh!

So first insert that bracket,

and then put the motherboard in place.

And that's done.

So next I can put the screws in.

I am sorry that you are not getting –

as good views as you should be getting,

because it is kind of difficult to find –

good camera angles,

when you don't have a crane to put the camera on;

I only have a tripod.

The tripod cannot be standing on the table.

It has to be standing outside the table,

so the camera has to be angled somehow.

And that doesn't give you perfect shots.

It would help a bit if my screwdriver was magnetic,

but it doesn't seem to be magnetic.

That is awkward.

Also that hole is not for screws,

so let's take it out.

Next: place this cooler where it should go.

It should go on top there.

Okay after reading the manual for a bit,

I figured it out:

I had to remove the upper panel,

and also the panel from the front.

So now I can get access to this.

Let's use these long screws.

Hmm, how do I do that?

The next problem is:

I need to figure out what to do with this cable.

Because this is computer case that is designed –

for cable management.

So I need to figure out how to do this.

I probably want to attach it over there…

Push it in there…

Like so.

And then just stuff the rest into that hole.

Then it should be coming from here.

In the cleanest way possible.

There is still more cabling to come…

So that's that…

And even more.

And more!

And more.

Okay, done.

And this, which is meant for…

Umm.

Hmm.

I don't know.

I will worry about it later.

This is a cable that goes to…

I don't know about this one.

But I know this one.

It goes to the motherboard's USB3 connector.

It is done.

Then USB, and HD audio…

I also have a front panel extender.

I bought this from AliExpress at some point.

Let's see if I can also use this one.

Somehow.

It should be going here.

Okay this turns out to be an awkward challenge.

Because this extender is quite short form.

When I push it inside here,

and the screws align…

over here,

there's nothing here holding it in place.

And the clip that is supposed to go here –

which is supposed to affix that thing in place,

it does not hit anything.

If I place it here, see what happens.

Actually there is supposed to be a spring in it.

Let's add the spring.

And put the clip in place.

Like so.

And I push this button,

assuming the thing is in proper position…

This meets nothing,

and it does not lock this in place.

This doesn't actually work!

I would need a bracket that pushes this way,

instead of that way.

It would have to keep the connection like this.

I fixed this by inserting a screw here,

that pushes this side of the bracket in.

And now this is held in place.

Not securely,

but it will have to do.

There is also a screwhole on this side,

so I might, probably, should, also use that screw.

So — reset switch…

Reset switch is over there.

Then, the HDD LED…

Plus and minus…

Are over there.

Then the power switch is over here…

And there is no HDD LED connector I believe.

Alright.

Then: Power supply installation.

This (USB3 cable) is already kind awkward…

But let's see.

The fan should be pointing upwards,

because it is going to suck air –

from inside the case.

I think it sucks air.

That's what I remember it doing.

Being careful to put the screws in the screwholes.

Not the ventilation holes.

Because that is a mistake I have done before.

Trying to put the screws in the ventilation holes.

Ok, that is nice and secure.

Then to see what to do with this massive heap of cables.

This is a modular supply,

so I don't need to have this kind of heap of cables,

but I already know which cables I am going to need,

because I just moved all of this from another case.

So I already know what I am going to need.

It is so hard to make sure everything is always in focus.

And that the camera is pointed the right way,

and that I am working where you can see me…

Well you cannot really see me now,

so that one is already a lost case.

But I'm sure you get the idea what I'm trying to tell.

There is a lot that goes into making a video –

that is not very apparent –

when you don't have experience of what is involved.

It's connected.

Then a CPU/PCI-E power cable.

Goes from this hole…

And another CPU power cable…

Next thing: Let's populate the hard drive slots.

I think I am going to need all of these out first.

Then insert the drive into the socket…

And push it in.

Probably shouldn't slam that hard though.

So each one of them inside there.

Do you please go peacefully?

It's not going peacefully!

Urgh.

Oh yeah, these drives are different!

Yeah…

This has three screwholes, but this has only two.

Whoa.

That is so weird.

So let's put this easier one in first.

And then, next one.

This one?

Also should go relatively peacefully.

Because it has three screwholes.

So I should be able to get it inside there.

Unnh!

Cooperate!

Oh yeah, there we go.

Western Digital.

Pain.

Pain, pain pain pain…

Do I just like, hope, that it stays there?

Because that is really awkward.

I don't know why this lacks the proper screwholes.

Because when it is lacking those,

I simply cannot push this sled in.

These all identical, right?

Yeah, they are all the same.

This one has those two,

and this one has those two.

And this one has those two.

That is actually not the only problem!

I mean, there should be these two screwholes –

but there is only one.

Also in the bottom there are two tabs,

which should have matching screwholes –

in the bottom of the drive,

but those screwholes do not exist.

If you compare with this WD drive,

you can see there is a screwhole here and here,

but not in this Seagate drive.

This is proving to be a dilemma.

I have two of these misbehaving Seagate drives.

I cannot attach them –

like they are supposed to be attached.

There is of course the option –

of clipping away these things,

basically brutalize this thing.

But that is not a very nice and clean solution.

For these misbehaving, illegal drives…

And of course I don't mean literally illegal,

I mean figuratively –

because they don't match the expectations.

Well, this is awful,

but I think have to clip away this center stud…

like so…

So that I can insert this drive in the sled.

It is now fixed in place with one little stud.

And then I just use screws to affix to the holder.

So, one side there…

And the other side… here.

So not exact toolless.

Also probably should have a screw here,

to reduce vibration…

But let's see.

Yeah, I should probably add that one screw.

So which side?

Probably here.

That should be enough.

So it's now there.

So the same procedure to this one.

Clip…

And take these side bar things away.

And then place the Archive drive there.

And then insert the three screws.

I am using a lot more screws in this project –

than I thought I would.

There we go.

So an HDD there.

But I am not done with drives.

There is also this SSD drive.

Let's also do that.

And the SSD drives go –

to these two sockets.

The connectors are on this side,

so I should probably orient it this way –

so that it would be easier to cable…

than if I were to do it some other way.

There is also a CD/DVD drive…

which I am going to insert into this slot here.

Hmm…

The cooling cables are on the way.

I have to put it like this.

And it's there.

Not very securely though!

But I suppose that's…

It's not very good.

I probably should have put this the other way around,

because now these water cables are on the way.

And that's not very good.

Remove these screws,

and turn the CPU cooler the other way around.

So let's take this…

Like this instead.

I was hoping these water cables –

would not be so much in the way,

but I guess I have to do what I have to do.

The horizontal position of this can be adjusted.

I should probably have it like this,

so that I can still access these memory sticks.

That is inconvenient…

The cooler is taking so much space,

that it is not really possible to use the top slot.

So use the one that is below it.

But this is not really very secure.

So I have to use a screw to hold it in place.

Now it is secure.

At least, it is secure enough.

Then there are a few more things.

There is a graphics card, which has to be inserted there.

And it goes into this slot,

so I have to remove this cover.

And insert the card…

in the PCI-E slot.

Alright.

So now I just have to affix this back in.

It is best to use these screws that were already there,

because that way I won't lose them.

Then the display card will need power.

It is this connector.

But to make it pretty,

I will of course do it in the back side.

Behind, over there.

And then insert it from here.

So that everything is pretty.

And I will use this one which is closer.

So there is a tiny microscopic –

little bit less of resistance.

Not that it really matters,

but it's the comfort of mind.

And it's connected.

I will still probably have to use something –

that holds the card up,

because that hanging is not very good for the socket.

And then we have a heap of power cables.

I have two SATA slots here…

And this is Molex,

and I will probably need a heap of more.

It's not exactly a heap,

but I do have this kind of an extender,

which converts one SATA power into four of them.

So let's see.

One, two…

(Sighs)

I have no use for this one.

How am I going to make everything work?

I also have–

With the motherboard came another one of these…

These, HDD power connectors,

but this is the old style;

it's not the SATA…

(Groans)

Here's one which converts a Molex connector to a SATA one…

Okay I was concerned for a moment!

But when I looked into my, eh, storage,

I found another SATA cable,

which came with this power supply.

So there is actually no reason for concern.

Then I am going to need a heap of –

of, SATA data cables.

Oh by the way!

There was one more cable, that I had misplaced.

That's why I didn't find it.

(Mutters: I didn't find it.)

Next:

The motherboard already has eight SATA connectors,

but I am also going to add this little card.

Which adds two more here, and two more on the outside.

Actually on the outside they are eSATA connectors.

But I will use these two which are normal SATA connectors.

… screw; take the shield out …

Put the card in…

Alright.

And now let's do some cabling.

So, the SSD drive…

It is the first one to be cabled.

And the cable goes through here.

And the drive goes…

Umm.

That is kind of awkward.

I will use a straight cable instead.

(Incoherent)

A straight cable instead.

So let's put it here.

And the cable goes through here.

And the drive goes here.

And the cable goes again here.

And that should be enough for now.

And then, the cable…

… is too short!

The cable is too short to be connected that way.

So instead of routing it all the way over there,

I will just…

…push it through…

…say, like here.

And now I see –

this is really meant to be connected the other way around.

Well, too late to cry about that.

Phbbt!

Okay, let's say it's not too late.

This is kind of inconvenient.

Not what the manufacturer was probably planning.

And it's there.

Hopefully that is secure enough.

These two cables –

should be going to this card here.

This is the most unbeautiful part of this build.

And actually,

they are not even going to stretch far enough.

So that's a no-go.

No-go there.

It is just a little bit too short.

So these are not going to be connected anywhere.

Too bad!

So, I wonder:

Am I still forgetting something?

I have the cooler connected;

cooler cable is connected;

all the powers are connected where they should be;

the display card is connected;

the drives are connected.

So next I need to put this –

umm, top panel back on,

and then the front panel back on.

Probably in the opposite order though.

And that's pretty much all.

So, the front panel.

Actually, I was supposed to place the top panel first.

So the top panel goes on top of this.

(Bang, bang, bang!)

Like so.

And now the people who complained –

about my table microphone –

are going to feel like idiots.

And let's put this, on the front.

Actually I need to remove these first.

To make openings for the things that are in the front now.

So these have to be opened.

And then I can place this in place.

(Bang, bang, bang!)

There we go.

Excellent.

And on the top, let's put the –

(blows)

the dust filter.

Which is already very dusty.

And screw these screws in…

And then… the back panel, which looks like this.

It needs to be closed as well.

What did I drop?

Nothing important.

I didn't drop anything important.

So the back panel, which is… here.

Has to be placed there.

So let's see.

I still have to organize these cables.

By the way if you are wondering –

why do I look over there once in a while,

it's because I am using a photo camera –

to film this, not a video camera.

And because of taxation reasons,

photo camera makers make it so that –

the camera automatically stops recording after a while,

to avoid being classified as a video camera.

So in order to evade stupid taxation rules,

they do stupid things.

Okay…

These don't seem like they are going to fit nicely.

I will sort that out later.

Get this stuff out of the way.

This one too.

Okay it's time to test whether this runs.

And to test it, I have here a PS2 keyboard.

Actually it's an IBM AT keyboard,

but I have an adapter here,

which converts it into a PS2 keyboard.

Because – listen to it!

It's a mechanical keyboard,

and people like mechanical keyboards,

even though I digress,

but people like them,

so let's just put it in.

Connect there.

And then power this thing on and see what happens.

Power on!

Power on.

And power off.

It went off also.

I don't know why it does that.

There is a LED display over there…

Am I even in the focus by the way?

Yeah, I guess I am enough in the focus.

Is it?

Is it not?

I guess that's fine.

So anyway.

F2 or DEL to run setup.

Let's do that.

It says "49" over there.

I don't remember what 49 means.

49, in the little LED display.

Which is probably too small to see on the camera.

Maybe I should zoom a little.

Can you see it?

Well, it says 49.

F2 or DEL to run setup.

Nothing is happening!

Let's just wait for a while.

And it does not even react to capslock or numlock,

or anything, so that is kind of disconcerting.

Did I do something wrong?

"49".

Now to be honest I didn't really check –

whether the memory sticks were pushed all the way in…

Oh, it says "50"–

Oh, yeah, that's actually a temperature–

Okay, so that is the SATA extender card doing its thing.

So it's actually doing some progress.

Now it is just blinking the cursor.

And what happens next?

It's in the GRUB prompt.

It still does not react to my keyboard input.

The temperature is climbing.

That is actually not the real temperature.

That is the offseted temperature.

To get the real temperature you have to subtract 27.

And now I got a kernel panic.

Something is definitely up!

It says, kernel panic in…

"modules linked" okay, eh.

Because I cannot scroll this up, I don't know where it happened.

In any case the first problem is that the keyboard doesn't work.

I guess I won't be using this funny little keyboard.

I will be using a different keyboard.

This is still a PS2 keyboard;

also, it is the keyboard that I use normally.

I have to reset this now.

So that "49" was actually a temperature reading.

If you subtract 27 from it, you get +22°C,

which is about the room temperature right now.

Okay so F2 or DEL.

And this keyboard is actually working!

You probably cannot see it–

Yeah you can actually see it;

it is reacting to these lock buttons.

So this keyboard is working.

And it is a PS2 connector keyboard.

So let's go to BIOS,

and see what is wrong.

It tells me I have 16 gigabytes of memory,

and the processor speed is something–

Let's reset everything.

At least, let's set that to auto,

and let's set memory in auto…

Everything "auto".

Actually maybe I will just load default settings.

That should be fine.

So let's see.

Umm.

One of the first things I should probably do –

is set my fans.

Let's see what happens if I use this fan tuning.

Detecting your fan speed.

And this goes on for a while.

In my fan configuration,

it is entirely possible –

that I have connected the fans the wrong way.

I mean, that all of these fans are sucking air –

out from this enclosure,

and nothing is pushing it in.

That is entirely possible.

And I will have to sort that out.

And I have not forgot about it.

It is entirely possible,

and I have to check these three fans over there.

At least I know this power supply fan –

is sucking air out.

So it is pushing air out,

and this fan over here in the case,

it also seems to be pushing air out,

but I don't know about those.

So I will have to check those.

Alright!

So it has set some settings here.

Let's see how do these work.

So, for CPU FAN 1…

CPU optional fan is actually the water pump.

That should be the water pump.

The normal temperature should be–

So the first–

22 is like my room temperature.

So it shows as–

It could be like that.

And then crank it up really soon.

Full speed at, say,

this should be 79… means about 52…

So when the real temperature is 52, then it's full speed.

Like that.

Let's do the memory first.

It should be at 3 GHz.

Let's do that.

And verify that the memory actually works.

Save configuration settings, and exit.

So the settings that I have now selected are such that –

CPU is not overclocked at all,

and memory is technically not overclocked at all,

although it is running at 3 GHz.

Which is what it is specified for.

So that should be OK.

Now let's run Memtest86+.

Memtest is running.

And actually, in my tests–

This is taking quite a long time,

and I have found that if there are any problems at all,

they usually manifest in test number seven.

So I will only run test #7.

So it's test #7: Block move.

And like I said earlier,

the memory sticks are now in slots B2, D2, C2 and A2.

So those are where the memory sticks are,

as they are supposed to be.

Also I should probably move this SATA card,

that I put right next to the graphics card;

I should probably move it way down,

because right now it is blocking a GPU fan.

That was not the smartest idea I have had.

Okay this memory testing is taking quite a long time,

and if there were problems,

they probably would have shown up by now.

So I am going to do something interesting next.

Let's power this computer down first.

And then next I am going to install more memory!

Because more memory usually makes things better!

I am actually not just playing around here;

From time to time,

I do run applications –

that really do require that much memory.

Usually they are programs that I made on my own;

which are running some kind of optimization problems;

but, ehh, I do still run out of memory once in a while,

while doing that kind of tasks.

So that's why I am installing more memory.

"HyperX."

These are nice and cold memory sticks.

They are not going to be cold for long.

The BIOS says that–

Let's see, DRAM information.

It says that I have this type, 16 GB…

And it's manufactured in week 41 of 2018.

So, slots 1, 3, 5 and 7;

all have exactly identical specifications.

Absolutely nothing changed when I switched between slots.

And then, slots 2;

everything else is exactly identical as before;

here is slot 1,

and here is slot 2,

everything else is identical, but the week changed.

These are older sticks.

These are from week 15 of 2018.

So slots 2, 4, 6 and 8.

So these are paired properly.

Unfortunately,

I was unable to get identical sticks for all eight slots.

That just… happens.

So these are all configured according to the XMP specifications.

Front panel…

Onboard debug LED; here we go!

Runtime CPU temperature!

I won't change anything else!

Let's just try that.

Alright let's run memtest again.

Starting the test; and let's run test #7 again.

And look at that!

We got an actual error, in test #7.

And that's why I like to run test #7 first,

because it is the fastest one to expose memory errors.

And there is a problem with this setup.

The memory sticks are 3 GHz, as I said before.

When I have four of them, they work just fine.

I can even overclock them to 3.1 GHz,

and it still runs just fine.

It passes the memory test fully without problems.

But when I have eight of them,

and pair them just as the manufacturer recommends,

then I get these errors.

And I cannot actually run them at 3 GHz.

So I will have to use something a bit lower.

Let's try 2.9 GHz first.

Let's try that.

It is kind of shameful,

that though I have these 3 GHz sticks,

I cannot run them at 3 GHz.

If I have just four sticks,

it runs fine,

but when I have eight,

it does not run fine.

And that's bad.

And we are running test #7 again.

With memory overclocked at…

Not overclocked, but specified at 2.9 GHz.

At this point, I want to apologize:

because for the past who-knows-how-long,

I had crappy audio,

because I forgot to start recording –

on the computer that runs Audacity.

So therefore the microphone that is next to me –

was not actually recording.

In the post process, I had to use the camera's audio instead.

You can probably see the camera in the reflection over there…

This camera here.

You can just barely see it in the reflection.

So I had to rely on that audio.

But now this audio is coming from the microphone,

which unfortunately is very close to the power fan of the computer,

so unfortunately there is some hum in that.

It is unfortunate,

but at least the sound quality in terms of my voice –

should be a little better now.

So let's run this test #7 for a while,

and see if there is a problem.

In the mean time, while it is running the test,

I will also do some tests,

to measure the directionality of the fans.

One of the best ways to check which way the air blows –

is to use a little bit of napkin, and see where the air pulls it.

For example, this seems to be getting sucked towards the fan.

Also, at the same time –

we got some errors in the memory test.

So apparently this memory speed is also not going to work.

So there is one fan here, in the front,

which pushes air into the computer case,

and this is sucking out;

it goes out from here,

it goes out from there,

and this one also,

hard to tell, but I think it also sucks.

Anyway, we got errors in this memory test,

so I have to use an even lower frequency.

It's taking its sweet time!

And the reason why it's taking so long to boot –

is because I know one of these HDDs is broken.

Maybe two of them.

So that's the reason.

So for the memory, one step lower.

Also probably,

I should now set the CPU overclocking.

Because I kind of want to get into that now.

So let's try…

This should be, probably, fine.

4.075 GHz.

And memory is 2.866 GHz.

That should probably be fine.

NBIO…

Fan controls.

CTPT.

Yes.

This one.

Watts.

450 Watts.

DRAM voltage is going to be fine.

I am not going to change that.

But these levels…

I am going to change them.

This is going to be like that.

Hopefully those are fine.

Maybe level three.

And let's boot up the Linux and see, what happens.

Does it still crash at boot?

Loading Linux.

Oh yes, we are still getting a kernel panic.

(Sigh)

It may be because of this SATA extender card.

I will remove it and see what happens next.

And now let's try again.

This time without this card.

And it seems to be booting up.

So it probably was this one.

I also disconnected two drives that are probably faulty.

The next thing, of course,

what everyone would like to know,

is how fast is this computer really.

So let's do some benchmarking.

I have the parallel thing here;

the Mandelbrot vanilla…

Mandelbrot, this one…

Here's how it works.

This is the performance on the old computer.

It's my baseline.

With eight threads.

This is the same, with SIMD enabled.

Sometimes SIMD makes it slower, sometimes faster.

And this is on the new computer, with 32 threads!

This is on the new computer, with 32 threads + SIMD.

Interestingly it was quite a bit slower here,

but sometimes faster.

This is the same, but without using AVX2.

It was actually faster in many parts.

And this is with CUDA.

It is interesting, that this 16-core,

32-thread processor –

was actually faster than the CUDA version.

Let's see that again!

So the CUDA version was neck-to-neck –

with the SIMD-optimized Haswell performance,

for the old computer,

but for the new computer,

it didn't beat it at any single point.

Which is kind of interesting!

The graphics card that I am using is GTX-970.

In this window you can see, in real time,

the CPU temperature;

there is the die temperature, and the control temperature,

which is the one with the fixed +27 offset.

These are basically the same thing,

but this is always +27°C higher than the other.

And that's the CPU temperature.

It is also duplicated here.

And it is also duplicated here.

Sometimes they don't match exactly because,

I don't actually know why.

And this is probably the motherboard temperature.

I am not exactly sure.

So the first thing I am going to do –

is to run the benchmark of POV-Ray,

using a scene called "abyss".

Abyss?

Abyss?

Abyss.

With a width of 2048 pixels, and a height of 768 pixels.

With some pretty high antialias settings.

Let's see how that works.

(Ominous silence)

Actually I think I saw…

Better performance earlier…

Umm, it is doing it on just one core.

For some reason.

Oh yeah, I have to enable threads.

Let's do 32 threads.

Here we go.

Ahh, that is so much better.

The CPU temperature is climbing.

It's 76°C, 77°C now…

And that's done.

Then, there is another test.

POV-Ray has an official benchmark.

It renders this scene.

On the benchmark page they provide official settings –

for testing it with.

So let's run that also.

And I am also going to enable preview for this one.

So it's going to create a small window.

512 by 512.

But let's see how it works.

Here we go.

It's a tiny window.

The CPU temperatures are much higher now;

it's 85°C now (185°F).

POV-Ray version 3.7.

Yeah, it's sticking quite steadily at 86°C.

It is a little bit higher –

than what is recommended for this CPU,

but still not terrible.

And the render time was…

Umm, the total time was…

I should probably do that again with times.

Let's do that again.

And there we go.

And that took 35 seconds.

Total.

34.96 seconds.

And the POV-Ray version that I used is –

a Debian unofficial build…

For POV-Ray version 3.7.

So some people asked me –

why do I use this Ryzen 1950X,

when the 2950X is also available,

and it also has 16 cores,

but it is faster –

and uses less power or something like that.

The reason is:

When I bought this processor,

the 2950X was not available.

It was released about a month later.

So that's why I have the 1950X.

In any case, this is my computer now.

So this is what I am using to make this video —

this very video was encoded on this computer,

although, at this moment, when I am speaking,

it has not yet been made,

because it's still being recorded,

but when you are watching this,

it has obviously already been made,

and published and so on.

So let's take a final look inside this case.

This is the backside of the computer.

It doesn't look very nice right now;

I still have to figure out –

how to flatten all these cables.

That is some labor to do.

But at least,

the presentation side looks pretty nice.

If I still open this one more time.

Durrgh!

And there we have it.

Can I zoom?

Yeah, I can zoom.

So yeah.

That is pretty much what it has.

Can I focus?

Yeah, I can focus…

So that is pretty much all there is.

I probably will put a little wire here,

to hold the graphics card up,

so that it doesn't weigh on the PCI-E socket.

And I will also have to figure out –

how to install a beeper in this computer.

Because I want a PC speaker.

So that's also something I have to do.

But other than that,

I think this project is pretty much done now.

And I can start using this computer normally.

So, thank you for watching,

see you next time!

Bye!

For more infomation >> Building a Linux PC with Ryzen ThreadRipper (+Benchmarks) - Duration: 1:07:52.

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India is building a £12bn state capital from scratch - Daily News - Duration: 10:25.

India is building a £12 billion state capital from scratch - but three years later work on the new homes for 11 million people has barely begun By Ross Ibbetson For Mailonline and Afp Published: 08:37 EST, 21 December 2018 | Updated: 09:00 EST, 21 December 2018 © FacebookPlans for the new High Court building for the city of Amarvati shows a modern structure surrounded by palm trees and beautiful gardens to rival the leafy city of SingaporeIndia's £12 billion project to build a modern leafy metropolis with fountains, bridges, gardens and glass skyscrapers to rival Singapore, but three years on little work has begun on the city billed to house 11 million

The southern capital of Amaravati - which means 'abode of the gods' is little more than empty concrete blocks and cleared agricultural land as its crusaders resort to crowdfunding to turn the pipe dream into reality

Billions are needed to transform Amaravati from the few new buildings which stand on the periphery of the existing village which is surrounded by thousands of acres of agricultural land into the envisioned capital of Andhra Pradesh, one of India's largest states

The website for the project proudly boasts there will be more than 8,000 hectares of residential land, a 5,500 hectare industrial quarter which will be surrounded by 1,600 hectares of water features and miles of roads and motorways

 © FacebookThe official Facebook page for the southern capital of Amaravati - which means 'abode of the gods' - boasts these stunning computer generated images of what the capital will look like, with broad highways and glass facades covering huge tower blocks© FacebookThis highly modern style boxed structure is yet to be built in Amaravati which still requires billions of pounds of investment to complete the plansAndhra once had another capital, the booming tech and business powerhouse of Hyderabad, which pulses with IT know-how and a startup culture

But the revenue-rich city was assigned as the capital of a brand new state, Telangana, when it was carved out of Andhra in 2014 following a populist movement to secede

The two states were to share Hyderabad until Andhra chose another city as its capital

But authorities decided to build a grand new seat of power some 170 miles away on the banks of the river Krishna

   Share this article Share © FacebookAn example of the modern type of office blocks the city hopes to boast to the world with more than 5,500 hectares of industrial buildings© FacebookWhile India has a tradition of planned cities, including Sir Edwin Lutyens' New Delhi and Chandigarh in the north which was designed by Franco-Swiss modernist trailblazer Le Corbusier, nothing of this scale has been tackled for decades© FacebookThis magnificent structure, perhaps a hotel or apartment complex, has lush green surroundings and broad terraces with a huge glass skylight at its centreWhile India has a tradition of planned cities, including Sir Edwin Lutyens' New Delhi and Chandigarh in the north which was designed by Franco-Swiss modernist trailblazer Le Corbusier, nothing of this scale has been tackled for decades

Amaravati was envisioned as a metropolis free of the chaos, traffic and air pollution that plagues India's urban centres

'It'll be an Indian city like no other,' said Sreedhar Cherukuri, commissioner of Andhra's Capital Regional Development Authority

Amaravati's many millions would enjoy efficient public transport including a monorail and metro network, while trees would shroud half the city with a green zone akin to New York's Central Park, Cherukuri said

Consultants from Amsterdam provided advice about an extensive canal system and expert opinion was sought from Singapore and Japan, among others

'Everything has been planned to the last detail. We've taken the best ideas from around two dozen global cities but this perhaps comes closest to Singapore in its inspiration,' Cherukuri said

However, nearly three years after Prime Minister Narendra Modi laid the foundation stone, Amaravati is largely deserted

An island of modern office buildings in the middle of fields hosts Andhra's chief minister and state government, which relocated there after Telangana claimed Hyderabad

 © FacebookConsultants from Amsterdam provided advice about an extensive canal system and expert opinion was sought from Singapore and Japan, among others© FacebookBut there is still scant evidence of the promised utopia as it runs severely behind schedule

Half-finished settlements dot farmlands, most not connected by proper roads and plans for the promised riverfront, housing and public transport have been marred by delays

'We came here because it really has the plans and potential to become a global city,' said a university official at a huge but largely empty campus in the planned city

'The on-ground infrastructure development, particularly the roads, has been slow,' he said, asking not to be named

K. Nageshwar, an independent legislator in Telangana, said: 'Nothing much has happened on the ground in Amaravati

It is still more dream than reality.'  © FacebookThis modern structure features a lattice facade around a large glass panelled circumference, it could possibly function as an office block, but there is no description of this on the Facebook page© FacebookChief Minister N Chandrababu Naidu ambitiously suggested in 2014 that the project - unlike anything ever seen in India - could be completed within five years

But since then officials have been reluctant to offer a timetable for its completion

Naidu, who today governs Andhra from a high-tech office in Amaravati, insists a magnificent city will one day rise from the plains

'I am not changing any plans for Amaravati. I only have to work harder to make it a reality,' the brainchild of the nascent capital told AFP earlier this year

 © FacebookA computer generated image shows what a bank or perhaps a shop might look like in the modern city being styled on the grandure of Singapore© FacebookTheir Facebook page has drawn thousands of enthusiastic Indians who are captivated by the stunning designs, while many other members of the populace remain sceptical and believe it to be a scamCherukuri, the official overseeing Amaravati's development, said contracts worth £4 billion had been issued, spurring the first phase of development

It was hoped the project would also attract foreign investment, he added. But funds are running low

Naidu blamed the national government for reneging on promises made during the Telangana split that would have conferred a special status and ensured a stream of financial aid and incentives to bankroll the dream city

The dispute soured ties with New Delhi, culminating with Naidu going on a hunger strike in April and severing ties with Modi's ruling party

 © FacebookMany of the computer generated images include broad highways with cars racing across the mocked-up city; the developers are hoping to create a colossal business hub in one of India's largest states© Facebook'This is a prestigious project for the nation and if government of India had supported it, we could have showcased it to the world,' Naidu said

Finance Minister Arun Jaitley has rejected assertions Andhra was double crossed, saying it got all it was promised

Naidu remains broadly popular in Andhra but has been accused of pursuing the eye-wateringly extravagant project for personal prestige

'Naidu very clearly projected Amaravati more as an instrument of electioneering,' said K

Nageshwar, the independent legislator.Unflagging in optimism, the chief minister declared earlier this year that his new city would be among the happiest in the world, promising a dedicated commission to gauge the wellbeing of its future citizens

'This is all optics and not substantial,' said Nageshwar.'He can't disown the capital now

I won't be surprised if he's still talking about it in 2019 and 2024 elections.' © FacebookA stunning pagoda-style residential block with lush gardens helping to shield its modern residents from pollution spilling in from the motorway below© Facebook