Hi, my name is Tom Ball.
I'm a Research Manager at Microsoft Research.
And it's my pleasure to welcome today Teddy Sayed from
University of Calgary in the Department of Computer Science.
Teddy is the first entrepreneurial PhD candidate in
CS.
Combining a traditional science-based
thesis with an entrepreneurial thesis.
And he's done a lot of work on wearables and fashion tech.
He's also a fashion designer and technologist with several years
of experience in designing and creating wearables.
And he's currently Technical Director for MakeFashion,
which is a Calgary-based fashion technology company that hosts
runways around the world.
So we're really pleased to have Teddy here.
He's gonna talk about how to bring tech and fashion together.
And we're hoping he's going to be here for three days actually,
through Thursday visiting with the MakeCode team.
And we're gonna be talking about how we can bring MakeCode and
MakeFashion together.
Teddy, thanks.
>> Thanks for the introduction.
So obviously, I'm Teddy.
I'm gonna talk a little bit about basically what I call,
Hacking The Runway.
So using fashion and tech together basically to create
pieces and meaningful experiences with fashion tech.
This is kind of the first title image that I like to show off
quite often, and it's basically the first indigenous piece that
we had this last year.
So it was the first time a designer who had never worked
with tech in terms of her culture, this is kind
of the piece and I'll explain a little bit more about it later.
I kinda wanted to start a little bit about where my thesis
started and then where it's kind of going right now.
So that's why I kind of have the star cuz it's kind of
a little crazy.
A lot of my earlier work
was looking at multidisplay environments.
So that's when you have a bunch of different displays in a room.
How you're sending information across,
in between the different displays.
I'd done a bunch of work in toolkits.
So a lot of this stuff was my masters.
This was kind of my early PhD looking at toolkits,
how to make APIs, how to make them scalable, things like that.
So I call that pre-runway.
Then I moved into more hardware and
wearables cuz I got bored with purely software.
[LAUGH] So I started actually building watches and phones and
things like that and I'll you a slide about that after.
But I started focusing more on shared experiences.
So what I mean by that is,
the ability to give something away or making a more
meaningful interaction with a specific piece of hardware,
whether it's a wearable or a phone or clothing.
Then kinda had some stuff happen around here that kinda made me
pivot a little bit more to the left and
actually focus on fashion tech.
So I started doing a lot more design, more sewing.
So if you think about myself going from undergrad computer
science, basically just UX and
programing all the way to now sewing,
it's kind of a weird experience, but it's been interesting.
So that's kind of a high level overview of what I have done and
kind of where I'm going.
So quick little example of stuff that I had done.
It plays, hopefully.
All right, so this is some of my earlier work.
Masters up to basically early PhD where I was looking at
taking the Kinect, putting them around the room, combining
information from a device that's just an iPad or a phone, taking
that gyroscopic information, fusing it with the Kinect.
So then you know where you are and
where you're facing in a room, and
then you'll be able to look at a specific display,
flick information across displays, between displays,
things like that.
So it's really, really early stuff,
you can tell it's basically the first Kinect.
So I'm taking orientation and things like that.
So that's kind of my earlier work where I'm looking at how
to build an interactive room.
So as I mentioned, I started it with the room and
then I eventually shrunk down to the body.
So there's me, young Teddy, a long time ago.
>> [LAUGH] >> So
that little arrow basically is the information from the iPad,
and once you connect then it actually knows where you are.
So this is really, really, really early work.
I think 2011, 2012 when the Kinect was basically brand new.
>> When Angry Bird was still a thing.
>> [LAUGH] >> Angry Bird was a thing.
>> Yep, as you can tell.
>> [LAUGH] >> Yeah, so
that was my first instruction to comps.
It was just near and dear to my heart.
So that was early masters, undergrad, and
a bit of the start of the PhD.
This is my more recent work.
So this was for Kai, last year.
I basically built a dual screen smart watch.
So I took apart a bunch of Android things or
Android screens, put in some sensors and
then basically created a new type of watch with two screens.
This was the introduction to what I called the shared
experience where you're actually taking a piece of a device and
giving it to someone.
So that's why I call it shared.
And I did a bunch of interaction design things.
So I looked at what it meant to take a screen off and
putting it on the left versus the right.
So, for example, if you put it on the left,
it's because it's more stable, it's probably easier to type.
If it's on the right, it's going to be easier to do more tangible
interactions because your wrist moves.
So basically made an entire operating system on top of
Android Wear to look at that kind of thing.
And more recently, so
I'm presenting this next week, again,
kind of the modular aspect and again kind of shared experience.
So basically, I built a phone that you can take apart and
lend a piece to someone.
I'm going to play a quick little clip for that.
So the idea is you lend your phone, typically,
to everyone, everyday.
But sometimes it's very awkward.
You don't wanna share the photos on your phone,
or maybe it's a kid.
So the idea is you have a [INAUDIBLE] smartphone that can
come apart and you can lend to someone.
And depending on how you take it apart and the different modes,
yeah I think it's pretty clever.
>> It's like the nesting dolls, how many can you do?
>> Yeah, so the idea is if it's a kid, you can lend the phone,
have information sandboxed.
This is where I'm playing the kid.
If you're in the car and
you need to look at GPS information on a map and
you don't wanna give your phone away, same kind of idea.
And then if you wanted to share with a stranger,
then you can give them the smaller piece.
So I looked at things like how people shared their device,
what apps they were sharing, things like that.
So there's a few key things that were interesting.
So depending on the level of trust of someone,
if you trusted them more you would give them a bigger piece.
If we trusted them less, you would give them a smaller piece.
So in everyday use that's,
obviously if you trust your kid or
your wife you're gonna give them the bigger piece.
With someone on the street,
you're gonna give them the smaller piece.
Yeah, as you can tell it's kind of clunky, but I did try to
make it smaller but that was basically impossible to do.
And then I came up with a different number of different
modes depending on how you're sharing.
So if you just straight detach it, it will just give you
things like access to the phone, Chrome, things that you normally
use and you don't really care about private information for.
If you care about things like lending an app, specifically,
you can do that.
Guest mode which kind of just makes everything open full
access, screen sharing, and
then being able to swap the different modes.
This was basically eight months of work.
But yeah, it was fine.
Okay, so, this is kind of where I got into the fashion stuff.
I was stupid and looked at YouTube comments.
>> [LAUGH] >> Don't read the comments.
>> So obviously, some troll was like, this is clunky and
looks like shit, basically, and it's a prototype.
But that got me thinking,
I actually was really good at UX stuff in Comp Sci, and
I was always really design-oriented but I never
actually thought about the design of the physical thing.
And especially in wearables, where fashion is very important.
So I figured, all right, I'm gonna go into fashion and
try some things out.
Started working on a bunch of projects.
I started getting involved in MakeFashion,
working on a number of different projects.
So my first one is this.
So it's basically a bolo tie.
You can kind of see them up there.
And yeah, there we go.
Some pink, so the bolo tie, basically if you're a cowboy,
they're usually wearing that little tie.
You kind remember that like kinda has a string.
So it's basically that with a screen on it.
And this was from seed,
I think it was the [INAUDIBLE] phone at the time.
And so basically you put a camera on the back and
it looks at the fabric that the person's wearing, and
then matches the cording pattern on the front.
And then the lady basically has a heart sensor, and so
whichever one she is most attracted to changes
the pattern of the person.
So she's with this guy because she's more attracted to this
guy than the other two,
which is why they're kind of looking awkwardly at him.
Yeah, it's basically a smart bolo tie.
So it's basically like Tinder but in a bolo tie.
>> [LAUGH] >> [INAUDIBLE] it end.
No, we're good.
>> It's coming back. >> Okay, yeah, so
this was basically my first sort of.
Exploration into fresh tech rate after that watch.
Or I was like okay, I actually got one on this.
So, you can imagine me finishing that watch,
jumping straight into this, and
at the time everything was really busy and crazy.
So I was kind of the one helping with addressing them,
coordinating them, getting them to work properly,
stuff I'd never done before basically.
And boom, this happened.
>> Are you gonna talk about what determines the heart?
>> Basically just if she beats faster and
is more attracted to them, then yeah.
>> So it's taking in certain data and
then it's choosing it for her?
>> Or does she go and self select.
>> She can self select as well but usually we have a,
there's a sensor kinda in the band that sorta helps with that.
I mean it's not the most ideal thing so usually on runways we
have a backup mechanism which is usually a button.
So in case something breaks you just click it,
it's kind of a secret.
>> But the heart can change, like I've changed my mind,
I'm gonna go hang out with someone else.
[LAUGH] >> I thought that
was pretty cool, but
yeah that was my first sort of start into wearable tech.
And I had such a good experience I figured
maybe I'll actually sewing and things like that.
So then I actually jumped into this piece which is called
La Bella Fioritura which means the beautiful bloom.
It's version one cuz I'll explain version two in a bit.
So the idea was, I was trying to do a piece that was expressive
in the sense that,
because it was around spring that we have done the show,
I wanted something to bloom.
So I wanted flowers to bloom, I wanted the wings to bloom.
That was kind of the idea, that's why there is sort of
flowers in the back that kind of bloom.
And I hadn't really done a lot of work in robotics and
mechanism kind of things, so
this was sort of the first experiment in it.
I had wanted to build something that actually bloomed,
like mechanically, but it was basically impossible in Calgary
because there's just nobody doing any of that stuff.
So, eventually I went to Shenzhen Maker Faire last year,
and we did a show there.
That was where I decided okay, this place is crazy, they have
a lot of tech stuff maybe I'll try to build the wings here.
So, I did, at Makeblock.
So this is kind of a crazy story and this actually what
really motivated that left turn in my thesis.
So this engineer who's name is Dolphin, so
she was basically fan girl of MakeFashion and Fashion Tech.
She was an engineer in Makeblock.
So when you first came in a morning on a Wednesday.
>> What's Makeblock?
>> They do all kinds of robots.
>> Robotic STEM basically.
>> They're STEM focused.
>> Yeah, STEM focused.
>> Okay.
>> So robots for STEM.
>> Robots for STEM, okay.
>> They have a lot of lot products that are sort of STEM
focused, and in robotics.
And I showed up there with Shannon who runs MakeFashion,
and we're like, maybe we can built the wings here.
>> You've probably seen them, the blue rods [INAUDIBLE].
So we were going to do a show on Saturday.
So we showed up there on Wednesday or
Tuesday yeah Tuesday.
Like hey guys do you want to build robotic wings?
So I sketched it out on Tuesday morning and
we showed up at Tuesday morning at 9:30 I sketched it,
10:30 we're at Makeblock office.
Okay, guys do you want to build robotic wings and
they're like sure.
Let me go ask team.
So they send a person back to team and out comes Dolphin and
Cacao, I think his name is.
Dolphin is a huge fan girl of fashion tech.
She's only ever done engineering at Makeblock, so
she's never really done any fashion stuff, but
she has a fashion background.
So for her it was like, hell yeah, lets do this.
Over the course of that day basically we built two fully
robotic wings that bloomed.
And it was basically the most epic experience
in my life thus far.
I can kind of show you what they looked like.
Next.
So see this place?
Yeah, as ugly as it is, this is probably
one of my favorite things that I have worked on just because.
>> [LAUGH] >> So this is an example of
an engineering STEM focused company doing really well, but
not actually focused on design up until this point.
So they've never thought of their product
in terms of fashion or design up until basically this point.
So the cool thing about working on this was A,
I'm working in Makeblock office in China.
Which was in and of itself a crazy experience, and
I was working there during the week of a typhoon.
So as the days went on, the storms got worse,
which was kind of crazy.
So you're working up there in the office and
you just see people blowing by, or things blowing by, and
people are holding their umbrellas and
they're facing the wrong way basically because of the wind.
But the cool thing here was Dolphin,
that's a key part of the story.
So as I mentioned, Dolphin was an engineer.
She hadn't really been exposed to too much
in fashion in the company that she was in.
And through this experience, basically,
we sort of changed their company.
So it was the first time I had worked in that kind
of environment where men and women were kind of segregated in
a sense that women were working on the easier stuff and
the men were working on the harder stuff.
So I came there and
she was the only one who really spoke English very well,
or reasonably enough so that I could communicate with.
And most of the males didn't really speak English at all.
So it was very hard for
me to communicate what the heck that we needed to do.
So I told her to come work by me that day,
because it was kind of split.
Basically by the end of the day I had totally destroyed their
male/female dynamic in terms of how they worked.
By the end of the day everyone was trying this on,
all of the males and females were working together.
It completely destroyed their mentality of what a traditional
Chinese workplace should be, which was the really cool part.
That's the one part.
Now, next we did a show for Maker Faire in something called,
I forget the name.
But basically it's in front of this crazy docked ship that they
turned it into a hotel, it was insane and it look really nice.
Here's a shot of the crowd, okay.
So we worked on few pieces for
that show, this one is a traditional hutterite
dress that has been transformed with fashion tech.
So designer Kelly, is a hutterite or
was a former hutterite.
And because he's gay he was kicked out of his colony,
so he's basically bought himself up, to now,
to be an epic fashion tech designer I think.
So this is one of his experiments of combining
the traditional hutterite dress with fashion.
There's lights underneath that kind of like flame up as she
walks very similar to the Hunger Games.
Yeah, so that was his piece.
Next is a traditional wedding dress,
kinda similar to before, with the flames coming up underneath.
This was interesting because we had to figure out how to
actually make a fire dress, basically.
So the way it works is we have a belt underneath with LED
strips coming down.
And this is also my first experiment with power on one of
these, power on fashion tech.
It's very hard to basically produce lights on a dress.
First off you have to defuse it so that she looks really nice.
You're not just seeing LED strips.
Next being power obviously,
having to power a number of strips.
The original design had I think 12 strips but because
of power issues, you can't do that and it end up being six.
The other crazy thing too about this was it didn't really work
up until she walked and even then it was kinda iffy.
So this was my first time soldering on a girl kinda naked.
>> [LAUGH] >> So
this was supposed to be working and it didn't work, and
we were just like okay, I'm gonna solder.
Just be calm.
>> [LAUGH] >> If you're hurt, it's fine.
So you're soldering on her to get it to work.
And at this point, I'm like,
man, there has to be a better way of doing this.
And this happens all the time where
the things kind of don't work.
But that was my first exposure to a lot
of things that don't work.
All right, so next one is Dolphin.
So this is Dolphin, so if you remember before,
I showed you her as an engineer, this is her as a model.
Now the crazy thing here is when we first came on that Wednesday
she was all engineer-y,
didn't really think of herself in a feminine manner.
Friday we needed another model so we had 13 pieces and
12 models, so 13th piece was this piece that I showed
you before which was mine.
So we asked her to model those pieces and
she was like hell no I'm not a model.
And so me and Shannon eventually convinced her to actually
model the piece.
It took some time, we taught her how to walk, and
then she goes up on stage and she just kills it.
She's basically the best model by the end of the thing,
she gets a lot of applause,
she's super proud there, I think, right.
So she's basically showing off her femininity
through the piece.
And the next day after she had done the show, she had wrote,
equivalently saying, for 26 years of my life, I have been
a male, in this environment, and I want to be female again.
So, it actually changed her life,
she is now way more feminine than she was before,
she's a much more stronger woman.
And for me, seeing how that changed was actually pretty
powerful in terms of what you can actually do with
tech in fashion.
So basically, that left turn in my sort of thesis was basically
because of this story.
So now we're into Post-Runway.
So because of that I started looking a lot more into what
I call haute tech couture.
So haute tech is a term from in Paris, or
French, long time ago, basically just means one-off
sort of fashion that's very expensive and high end.
So with tech you're basically taking that same concept and
doing one-off expensive concepts with tech.
So this one is from Asta Rosa,
something you guys might be familiar with,
the printing dress, and
then [INAUDIBLE] with the spider dress.
Those are two of the most common things.
>> It's in here, the first one?
>> This one?
>> [INAUDIBLE] >> Really?
>> Yeah. >> I will check it out then.
>> [LAUGH] >> It's really cool though.
And the thing I really like about this stuff is that even
though it's just pieces that I've kind of shown,
each one is just kind of a step forward in wearable tech.
You're solving issues of power, where to place batteries,
fabrics, and things like that.
So as I mentioned before, I'm a part of MakeFashion,
and I'm one of the technical directors,
as well as the head engineer.
And so we basically have 60 designers and
engineers all around the globe and
we do fashion tech shows basically everywhere.
So I'll show you a few examples of interesting pieces this
last year that I had either seen or been exposed to.
So this one is the dream dress.
And so the idea is the dress best reflects
the dreams of someone.
So she has a little headset up top.
And so it records the wearer's dreams in a loose term and
then it reflects it in lights on the front, so it's very,
very cool, I think.
This one is one of my favorite ones.
We call this the drone dress.
And basically the drone is attached to the back of
the piece from the left and the right.
And as she walks,
basically the drone will hold the back of it up.
So here's a shot of it on the runway, which is pretty epic.
So it has some cameras on top, and
then it basically tracks the runway lights as it goes.
So it uses computer vision to basically keep
going down the runway.
Now one of the issues here is that he was using
WiFi and Bluetooth.
And in a runway environment,
the WiFi and Bluetooth are basically, nope.
So it basically stopped working not that far off this shot.
>> Dear.
>> But the thing is it looks really nice and
it gets the point across so.
>> What are the cables?
>> This? >> The cables on the dress.
>> It's just fabric that holds the drone in place so
when she walks in it keeps the sort of the bloom aspect.
>> I think he means the green- >> Yeah, it is.
>> The green, that's actually just part of the,
I think I that before hopefully.
So these?
>> Yeah. >> These are just part of
the design of the piece.
>> Okay, they look a little bit like Ethernet cables.
>> Yeah, actually I can see that.
>> They are. >> So this one they were using
a bit of recycled material, and then some lights and everything,
so yeah.
And there's a lot of stuff around using recycled materials
and in fashion tech, so
it's kind of what they're playing with.
Okay, yeah, so as I mentioned before,
I view Haute Tech Couture as a step forward in solving some of
the challenges in wearable tech base to make it more practical.
So I don't know how practical a drone would be
following a piece.
But the idea of a drone following something on clothing
actually makes more sense, right?
Or in the case of the dream dress, maybe it's something else
that would be recording your dream and
somehow would affect on your clothing.
Maybe not in that fashion, but
in a way that it might make something more meaningful.
For example, if someone is ill, and they have really bad dreams,
the next day they wake up, someone can tell they had a bad
dream through the expression of their clothing.
So now I'm gonna kinda talk a little bit about my inspiration
these days for some of the stuff that I'm doing.
So these two girls, Lauren and Ashley, are,
I wanna say 13 to 14.
They are basically probably the smartest kids I've ever seen or
mentored.
They probably teach me more than I teach them.
They're really involved into fashion tech and
anything around wearable tech and STEM.
So they have learned basically STEM and
STEM concepts through fashion tech.
So do a lot of different programming,
a lot of different soldering,
a lot of different things like that.
So they actually had a piece this year, so these are the two.
So these are them on the runway.
So they're the designers,
the engineers, they're female, they're models.
They're basically the ideal situation of what kids
should be growing up these days, especially if you're a female.
So these are two pieces that they worked on.
This one, I don't have the name of it, but
she basically grew a bioorganic material,
which is up here in her kitchen in her fridge.
And then hooked up a bunch of electrodes to it and so
when she put power to it, it actually lights up, yeah,
it's crazy.
She basically build this whole bioorganic system for
her piece which is just unbelievable.
And Ashley, I believe, yes, she was
experimenting with different types of fabric and clothing.
And she also grew a part of the bag as well.
So this is an example of kids who are really engaged in STEM
concepts, using fashion to express a bunch
of different things about themselves and
learning a lot about stuff they've never done before.
And I think this is
why Fashion Tech is actually really important.
Another example is the Table 6 girls on the left and
their piece on the right.
They did a lot of work around heart sensors as well.
So these girls are basically not technical at all.
They're literally fashion students.
So we brought them in two months before the show.
We taught them about 3D printing,
we taught them about soldering, electronics, and
basic programming.
So we'd give them basic programming templates.
They would change the variable at the top.
And they would learn how to change colors and
things like that.
So we learned about RGB, hex, loops, variables,
stuff like that.
They had never been exposed to it.
By the end at their school they were the only ones using laser
cutting.
And the laser cutter had never been used for 15 years.
And it was a really expensive laser cutter.
So the fashion students are now using tech.
They are using laser cutters that haven't been used in their
school by anybody to do fashion tech.
This is just an example of some of their work.
So this is basically an example of using fashion tech for
women in STEM and changing how they use tech in general.
And as I mentioned before, this is the indigenous piece, so
this is Angel.
This is her piece.
It's called the Matriarch Speaks.
This is an example of culture now in fashion tech,
right, where she had never been really exposed to anything
in fashion tech.
So she'd never done any soldering,
never really thought about lights, or programming, or
anything like that.
Now we're using fashion base to express a part of her piece.
Now the piece represents, from what I remember,
I'm trying to remember what I spoke.
It's about women before they get married in the native culture,
they have a specific piece they wear and
they have a specific dance.
So we basically enhanced that with fashion tech.
So we then used a few types of techniques with 3D printing.
So under each one is an LED strip with fiber optics and
a diffuser.
So the way that diffusers works, it basically it makes the light
really, really nice for when it comes down on the strip.
And this is what it looks like on the runway.
So as she walks down the runway basically it does leave a nice
pattern with an accelerometer, so she walks and
it does a really nice sort of fade down.
So this is basically one of my favorite pieces,
cuz we learned a lot about 3D printing in fabrics that I had
never even done before.
One of the cool things, too,
is we came up with a Fashion Tech Board.
And from observing her and her techniques of beading,
we actually came up with a different way of, sorry, came up
with a different way of actually putting in wires into a board.
So she was always wiring things like that and
we thought maybe that would be a good way to actually prevent
breaking with boards.
So I'll send this around after.
But it was a really neat way to see how culture can actually
influence the tech at a fundamental level,
whether it's a board or
programming or the actual design of 3D printed parts.
So this first example of now disability becoming
a superpower.
What I mean by superpower is, this is Nadine.
She basically has one working limb, and
everything else doesn't really work.
However, we're using prosthetics to basically make her something
else, something different.
Which is kind of crazy.
So the first time I saw her at a fashion show,
she was actually my favorite model because she walked with so
much confidence, compared to every other model I'd seen.
It was just mind boggling.
I mean, look at her now?
You don't see anyone with a disability.
You see someone who's proud to be who she is,
because of fashion and tech.
And I think this is why I think it's important.
And usually we're just doing really basic things with her,
whether it's just lights with certain patterns, or
integrating fiber optics into her hair.
>> So there's prosthetics,
she's wearing prosthetics at the bottom and you wrapped it or?
I mean, what's the tech- >> No,
these are 3D printed prosthetics with lights.
>> And the light's inside, wow.
>> And you can't see the other one cuz I didn't have
a good picture,
but she has as well on the bottom of the white dress, yeah.
But you see her basically before, and
then after with the Fashion Tech,
it's a crazy transformation of personality and everything.
And so that's what I mean by giving her superpowers, that
she's now way more confident than she ever was before.
You might have seen this one before.
This one is called gamer girls.
This is a really cool story.
This is three females.
One of them is a designer and two of them are engineers.
The one common thing between them is they both like gaming.
So they up with a piece where each one is a screen, and
each one can play with each other.
It's like their playing Asteroids against each other.
So this becomes basically a giant little screen,
it's two player.
So I'm looking at the one piece and I'm controlling it, and
she's looking at me controlling the other one.
So expression of two females with different backgrounds using
Fashion Tech to basically tell a different story.
This is why it's really cool with Fashion Tech because you're
usually telling a story with the tech and
it's not the other way around.
So this is another piece by Dolphin actually.
For now we're going back to Dolphin.
So I went back again in February to work on this board,
and I was invited back to work at a Hackathon at NickBlock.
And so the first time I ran into her in February, she
was completely different than the time I had met her before.
I was like, damn, girl, what happened to you?
And she was like, well,
it's because of Fashion Tech and you guys.
So I worked with her over three days at NickBlock.
Before I was the one pushing stuff,
now it was just her sort of dragging me along.
I was just giving her a bunch of advice on where to put
batteries and lights.
Eventually we ended up doing this piece here,
which was shot in Calgary.
And it was just seeing the transformation in her
was pretty crazy.
This is the piece I came up with.
>> Is that green screen?
>> No, that's actually Lake Louise, cuz I'm from Calgary so.
>> This is Lake Louise.
>> This is Lake Louise.
>> On Lake Louise.
>> Yeah, in the winter.
>> [LAUGH] >> Wow.
>> She's very cold, you can't tell from this picture, but
yeah.
This is an example of now, Dolphin.
She was first just an engineer.
Then she became a model, then designer,
now she's a full on Fashion Tech.
Her company, she's leading them now in the Women in STEM charge
in her company.
She gave a three-minute speech that made everybody cry
at her company when I was there.
Even I was crying a little bit.
But that's sort of the full story of Dolphin now and
where she is, and that's kinda what's motivated me a lot to do
the Fashion Tech stuff.
Okay, so with Haute Tech Couture and Fashion Tech there's
a few things that I think are actually pretty important to me,
the ability to teach and inspire people through technology.
You've kind of seen that with Lauren Ashley,
with Dolphin, as well as the other the designers.
Each experiment becomes a learning experience, so
each one you do becomes better and better and better.
And we show examples of my work after the first piece,
but they are much, much different than what I
had started with just because I've learned a lot more.
It's empowered and encouraged people cross-culturally,
especially in the case of Angel with her piece.
Now she knows stuff about tech, 3D printing.
She's doing crazy stuff now just using her culture and
the native stuff.
And as well, disabilities can actually become superpowers,
that you've seen with Nadine.
So now, after this point, I have worked on a bunch of pieces,
I've done a bunch of shows.
I'm fairly familiar with tech now, so I actually wanted
to do some research and actually solve some of these problems.
So we did a show, Maker Faire Xi'an, in the summer.
So I looked at basically doing a one-month long Fashion Tech
workshop with seven designers and a runway show.
So that's over a one-month period, so it was a bit of work
to do especially in China and in Xi'an, which is very, very hot.
It was like 45 plus most of the time.
So you're just cooking in a workshop, working on your tech.
[LAUGH] And one of the things, too,
we were looking at was actually creating a board.
So as I mentioned before, one of the main issues with all of
the Fashion Tech stuff is power and lights.
So we worked on creating a fashion tech board specifically
that was around power and lights.
So powering as many lights as you can in an easy manner,
which is the point of this unique fashion board.
So I wanted to do this workshop around understanding
some of the problems, to see if a board like this could
actually solve some of the problems.
So this is some of the shots of the workshop.
So we had seven designers.
We were teaching them how to code.
They're using different fabrics.
Some of them did things around recyclable material.
Some of them did things around this crazy reflective material.
We've shone a light at it and it just really bounced off and
diffuses really nicely.
So none of these females had ever seen anything with the tech
at all before.
So this is their first exposure.
So it was a really good chance to see what the some of
the challenges are for people who haven't coded before,
and how fashion can sort of integrate into that.
I think earlier I mentioned power,
I always mention power because this is crazy.
This is kind of the craziest thought.
Yet she had 14 LED strips and
she was asking, why couldn't this work?
And I'm because this is not how things work.
But I tried to get it to work, and eventually we did.
I did a bunch of tricks with the board and
power to get it to work.
But this is an example of a designer coming up with
a concept and saying why doesn't this work?
And you telling the power doesn't work, but it just-
>> Need a 20-pound battery.
>> Yep. I'm like,
do you want them all on at the same time?
It's like, yes.
I'm like, no, we can't do this.
It took two hours for
me to explain to her why you couldn't do that.
Eventually we settled on doing something like this,
where there's the light strips going around.
This is the product shot.
Sorry, you'll see the pattern come across.
Eventually I got that to work.
Look at the mess, it's just a mess.
>> No.
>> Yeah.
>> Yeah.
>> But getting to that point and
explaining them the challenges was just a nightmare, especially
with things like the connectors not working half the time.
And in the case of these,
these would actually rip on the fabric.
So stuff that we're normally used to with tech
and a lot of the prototypes and stuff doesn't necessarily work
really well with a lot of this, even with the strips.
Milling them is fine but
actually what you really want to do is sew them in.
All right, so and this is kind of the final shot.
It's called meteor.
She's just inspired by a meteor she shot one day and
she wanted a piece that was around that.
So yeah, in addition to the one month long tech review I did,
or the workshop I did, basically a tech review of the last five
years worth of Fashion Tech pieces.
And then I did some interviews of designers, engineers.
So yeah, we had five years worth of pieces.
So I looked at what the techs they were using.
So things like Arduino, the types of connectors, so
some of them you saw, what types of wires they were using.
I looked at the [INAUDIBLE] stuff, and the lily pad and
why things like that didn't work.
With the case of the lily pad, because the connected thread
isn't good at all for wearable tech.
It's fine for prototyping, but once you put it on a runway,
and someone is walking with it, it'll break.
If someone heats up, it'll break.
So it doesn't really work very well.
And in the case of Fashion Tech,
because you're doing shows around the world,
it has to travel.
So once you fold it, it's not gonna work, right?
So some things I learned thus far.
And I mean, this is work that I've done over the summer.
So I haven't actually formalized it and put it to paper yet.
So forgive me if it's rough.
As I mentioned before,
power isn't well understood, even if a board fixes it.
So the board works really well for power but there still isn't
a way for me to communicate and express to people the fact that,
this isn't going to work for, 1,000 lights, maybe 300.
But for designers it's still a foreign concept, so there has to
be a way to introduce the idea of power earlier in the process
of design.
Yeah.
[LAUGH] >> Wearable challenges
are the limitation, so even though we've designed boards,
even though we have batteries and stuff,
they're still not really ideal for fashion tech, right?
They need to be bendable, they need to be flexible.
Every component from the wire to the board itself should be
considered in the design.
Even when you're wearing it, that's something that we don't
think about very often in fashion tech.
So what I mean about that is, the designer will come up with
a piece, it will be great, and then the tech comes in, right?
Then you're placing the battery, then you're placing the lights.
It's not with it, it's after the fact, right?
This still goes on all the time.
Programming is still very difficult.
So in the case of where Ashely and
even the Table Six girls that I mentioned,
we're giving them templates of code, which is fine.
But the minute they want to do something complicated,
then we get called in.
And most of the time it's really basic stuff, but
it's stuff that we can simplify much, much easier for them.
And MakeCode actually is interesting because Lauren
actually had done a lot of scratch base stuff before.
And I have seen them use it when they're designing stuff and
programming in general.
So that's where I got the idea of actually using MakeCode and
drag and drop sort of programming to actually improve
the fashion tech side.
There are some designers who are really experienced with tech and
come up with different ways of doing stuff.
So one of them came up with a basically an LED strip where
you can actually sew into a sewing machine so
you can feed in the LED strip.
It has the little side thing where you can
actually sew it in.
Some of them have actually done their own electronics.
So one of the problems with movement in fashion tech is that
it's very hard to move it,
especially if it's with robotics.
So you typically wanna use something like muscle wire.
Muscle wire isn't very reliable because of the current and
stuff so some of them actually created their own,
sort of muscle wire techniques and boards for that.
Also, age and experience doesn't really matter.
As you've seen, there's young girls doing it,
there's older women doing it.
And it doesn't really matter what your designing
experience is.
Even on my end, I was never a fashion person at all.
And now I'm actually doing it, so it's fine.
Culture plays a big role in design.
In the case of the native piece that you saw, or
even Kelly's piece with wedding dress,
it plays a huge role in how you are designing things.
And in the case of Angel, you saw how that actually influenced
the fundamental part of a board.
And as I mentioned before,
technology I think is actually too late in the design process.
It needs to be way, way earlier or even removed in general.
All right, so potential solutions, so any hardware and
tools that are closer to the design side.
So actually moving the tech from the end to the beginning.
So that might be an IDE that integrates in the concept of
power or the concept of sensors right off the bat before they
even program anything, right?
Block based programming, I think, is actually a really good
solution just because I've seen the usage with kids.
And also, fashion with the tech which I mean by fashion and
the tech at the beginning.
So where I am right now, I'm trying to build modular
basically software and hardware for fashion tech.
So think of like Lego but for
fashion tech where you can plug and
play things in different components.
That's from the hardware and the software.
I actually started a not-for-profit called SOPHIE,
which means stories of fashion, inclusion, empowerment.
And the idea is that I take a lot of this modular stuff and
put it into the not-for-profit.
So because I've seen such a change in the women who don't
have a tech background or a tech experience,
what I've seen with Angel, you can actually use fashion tech
to sort of empower people, and especially women.
That's the concept behind SOPHIE, and
then the fashion tech kit for STEM which I am working on
hopefully comes out on Kickstarter next month.
Questions?
That's it for me.
>> [APPLAUSE] >> What
do you mean by tech is too late?
>> So what I mean by that is the typical design process is
the designer comes up with a sketch.
They're doing their pattern drafting,
then they cut everything out.
They sew everything together, and then the tech comes in.
So they don't actually consider where the battery is placed,
what the lights look like, etc., etc.
So my potential source for that is actually putting in
components in the pattern drafting stage.
So you're putting in where the battery space,
you know what size it's gonna be,
you know what size the LED strip is gonna be,
how long it's gonna be, all that kind of stuff.
You put it in at the beginning.
Then having it as well, some tools where you can preview what
your piece looks like before you actually cut it out,
like you already have the sketch.
You know what the pattern's roughly gonna be.
Maybe placing the battery lights and see what it looks like.
>> What are the specs of the hardware?
What is the processor?
>> It's an 18 mega 32 U that we're using right now, 32k Ram.
>> And how does this help the power issue?
>> Actually we're using USBC which seems to work reasonably
well for throughput of the lights.
But it only solves the issue of power in the sense that it can
power lots of lights but it still doesn't solve the fact
that people don't understand, you can't.
>> [INAUDIBLE].
>> Yeah, so,
and usually the hack is like you lower the brightness or
something.
It's like, yay, it works but not really.
>> You talk about sort of focusing on this haute
couture and doing these amazing things like the blue dress.
And then you also talk about making it more accessible for
kids, and making it easier.
When you look at these two ends of the spectrum,
how are you thinking about splitting your focus here?
>> So the way I look at it is, if lower it,
basically if kids can do it, anybody can do it, really.
That's basically my concept.
In terms of STEM stuff, I think it's a really good way to
introduce STEM concepts to basically kids and
everyone in general.
And I don't think it's that much of a step up to actually do
design as well.
Because eventually it's the components are the same,
you're just changing the software and the UX.
You're changing the language that people are using it in.
So that's kind of why I started with STEM idea because it's
easier for me to access that right now, than it is the higher
[INAUDIBLE] >> So right now,
almost everything's light based.
You showed a few things that are you own and the screens.
>> Yep.
>> What other things have you seen that are like this?
>> Usually the lights are a means of expressing the piece,
but usually there's something like an accelerometer,
which in the case of the native piece, she's dancing.
And so the accelerometer sort of inspires how the lights move or
are expressed.
There's another one that I did show with a violinist.
And so we basically placed a sound sensor and
an accelerometer on her violin, so
the more she plays the more stars light up on her piece.
So usually we're using the sensor to basically tell
the story.
That's like the brains basically and
then the lights are the expression.
Did that answer your question?
>> Yeah, I'm just really curious to watch how the early stages,
it's the lights.
>> Yeah.
>> I want to see what's going to happen next, like more emotion
is probably what I can guess would be to an extent.
>> Yeah, absolutely.
That's kind of why the board is just focus on power and light.
That just seems to be the biggest issue is,
can I turn the light on and can I make it show a pink, right?
That seems to be hard for lots of people.
So if we solve that stuff within,
I think we actually do the more crazy,
especially things with motion and stuff like that.
>> So what about color matching of the lights to the fabric and
the fashions, how much tuning goes on there?
>> A lot more than I would like to admit.
Color is because designers think in terms of color palettes.
>> Yeah.
>> Things like that, not RGB variables in, we know.
So usually there's a lot of work that we have to do to make it
easy for them to do that stuff.
So that's an area that definitely needs to be improved.
>> So how do you correlate multiple sensor data into
a color scheme and you're not a coder?
So that's where you come in?
>> That's where I come in, unfortunately.
Yeah, but this is what I mean.
For us, it's not very hard to do that stuff, but for
them it's pretty easy.
You just modulize it and give them an easy way to do it.
>> You mentioned that one of the designers came up with their own
muscle wire.
Can you talk more about that?
>> I can send you an email about it if you'd like.
>> I would love that [LAUGH].
>> I don't know too much about it cuz she was working on it
at the same time that we were working on the board.
But she basically came up with a different way, like an easier
way of putting power into the wire to make it easier to bend.
There seems to be here.
>> And did you come up with any unique connections,
when you were putting this stuff together?
Because I find that's one of the most difficult things,
is making everything connected correctly.
>> In terms of?
>> Unique ways to connect things.
I know you talked about your beading,
being one way of doing it.
>> Can we see that?
>> Yep.
>> And I'm assuming that's why there's the holes on the board.
>> Yeah, so I can show the board, give me a second.
Yeah, so we basically put in sewing holes along the top and
underneath, and then because of the beading technique,
it basically loops through, and
then it becomes really easy to solder.
So you just loop it through and then one, two, three, four,
five, six, depending on how your soldering.
So this helped people solder much,
much easier than before, if you're used to soldering.
The other thing it does with power resource,
it's basically so it does way more lights.
One of the issues with the board you're seeing right now,
especially with connectors such as these, is that yeah,
they work fine, and they power things great, but if they're in
fabric they tear, especially if someone moves, so we're thinking
of actually switching- >> You mean they
tear the fabric?
>> They tear the fabric, yeah.
>> So they tear the fabric, or they get caught on something,
and when someone moves their arm, and
it just, breaks, and then you're stuck.
So we're thinking of actually switching to headphone jacks,
which really makes sense, right, cuz then it's just plug and
play, and then if it breaks off you just plug it back in.
Then you wrap it with a fabric, and you can sew, and
you feed it through, and then your problem's solved.
>> There's a company in the [INAUDIBLE] that they
did a whole kit around jack connectors.
>> Yeah? >> Yeah.
>> I'll have to check it out.
>> So it's you use typical kits, but
now they're using jack connectors.
>> Yeah, well it seems to work pretty well.
Some other issues that we've had, that's typical to is, so
let's say your piece looks great, it's on the runway, and
a light stops working, how do you debug it?
You have to take everything apart.
You cut a wire.
>> But it's soldered [LAUGH] together.
>> Yep, and it's just- >> It's embedded,
it's embedded computing, so- >> Yep, literally.
>> It's been really embedded and yeah.
>> Yep.
>> Debugging must be just a nightmare.
>> Yeah, and then sometimes you're not sure if it's
the programming that's the problem, or it's the hardware, so-
>> Do you have a single board
for?
>> See it really depends on the piece, right?
So sometimes you wanna do something where there's
something up here, and there's something on the piece itself,
and you might wanna use bluetooth or something.
Usually with Bluetooth is that, in a runway environment it's
super noisy, especially with Wi-Fi as well, it doesn't
usually work very well, so sometimes you have multiple
board with I2C connecting them, but it's not very common.
>> You were saying that the NRF Nordic has an amped plus,
which works better?
>> Yep.
You don't really see it in some of the other pieces I
showed, but.
In these ones, so all the pieces in the first fashion show that I
did in Shenzhen, we are using the NRF chip,
which is basically like ANT+.
It's very similar to Bluetooth and-
>> So that's
proprietary nordic protocol, or- >> Yep, I believe.
But each piece had its sort of own color trigger, so
these lamps would change colors according to the piece that
walked down the runway.
>> Cool.
>> Nice.
>> That's where I basically learned that that
might actually be a better solution than Bluetooth or
Wi-Fi, and I've tried it in noisy environments, and
it seems to work really well.
The issue with the NRS stuff is that it's basically inaccessible
to most, the average developer.
Like I'm the only one who knows how to use that thing, and
even then I'm still not- >> How much amp can did you pipe
for this?
>> I haven't tried the maximum.
>> If you have 500 lights times 60-
>> So I've tried USBC battery,
I think 10.5, 10, 500 and then 266
lights at full brightness white, and no problem.
So for now it's not bad.
>> So another challenge is- >> On this site?
>> These right now, these [INAUDIBLE] garments,
they're not gonna probably be very washable or very-
>> Yeah.
Yep.
>> How is that problem going to be solved in the future when we
try to make this more daily use, or do everything?
>> That is a very good question.
So actually this is where the modularity comes into play.
So I think for other pieces this year moving forward we're
actually gonna do two-layered pieces.
So one layer that has just the lights and
the fabric, or the lights, and
the battery, and all that stuff, and it's basically a second
layer that you're gonna sew onto the fabric itself.
It's basically modularizing the tech and
the actual fashion garment itself.
That's one of the main problems right now with those.
>> Have you done any experimentation with conductor
fabric?
>> Yeah, we have, it just doesn't work very well for
this stuff.
I mean, it works fine if you're doing something like,
you touch your shoulder and something lights up here,
but traveling across a piece, it's just not good.
We stay away from that as much as we can.
>> Where are like the major designers at with this stuff?
Is anybody from Gucci, or Prada doing anything, or investing?
>> No, it's, it's a very, very, very small community right now
just because I think tech is inaccessible, so
most people just stay away from it.
I sat in a meeting with someone who used to run IDO, and
they were talking about wearable tech and some of the challenges
they had, and one of the things that struck me was the fact that
he was like, well, you and Nike can come up with a new shoe,
or a new jacket that's wearable, but
the minute they do they're becoming at tech company.
And they just stay away from that,
cuz they don't worry about customer support issues of
battery life, and stuff like that.
So it's just, even the basic framework stuff is not there for
them to even take that step.
Yeah, is trying it, but even then that's a tech company,
it's not a fashion company.
It's easier to use it with the watch,
because it's the screen and you can support that stuff, but
the minute it's in fabric where someone's washing it you can't
guarantee you the same washer and dryer.
You can't guarantee the same conditions of what's washing it
and all that stuff, it's just, it's not there yet.
>> You think it'll be easy for them to pivot, or
adapt two entities a separate player?
>> I think it's probably five, ten years away from being that,
but then some company will come up with some framework that do
everything magically, and then we're good, I think.
>> [LAUGH] >> Any other questions?
>> What are you gonna be for Halloween this year?
>> [LAUGH] >> I don't know actually.
>> [LAUGH] >> Okay, with that,
let's thank Teddy again.
>> [APPLAUSE]
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