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In this video I'll show you how to build a washer toss game.

Hi, I'm AJ, and you're watching Woodified!

I make DIY in woodworking videos if you'd like to learn how to do stuff yourself

please subscribe and click the bell notification button so you don't miss any of my videos.

The first step is to cut your materials to size.

I cut eight pieces of 2x4 that are fourteen and a half inches in length.

I then cut two pieces a four inch diameter PVC pipe

Three and three-eighths inches in length.

I cut two pieces of

3/4 inch plywood you can also use half inch plywood that would work if that's all you have.

My plywood is 16 inches square.

Find and mark the center of the plywood squares

so that your X is

longer than the diameter of the PVC pipe. You'll use the X to line up the brackets.

I used a drafting compass and

measured out the radius of the pipe. That's half the diameter.

I set the compass in the center of the plywood and drew a circle.

The circle will be the guide for attaching the pipe to the plywood base.

Here I'm marking the center line down the edge of the board's so I can get the screws lined up.

It's not important to line up the screws unless it will bother you later.

Next I pre-drilled the boards to help prevent the boards from splitting. Here's a tip.

While the boards are lying flat get your screws started.

I find it makes screwing the boards on the edge a lot easier.

Notice how the boards are laid out and screwed together.

The screws go through the edge of one board into the end grain of the next so that no board

has screws going through the same direction at both ends.

This makes cutting your boards simple as all sides are the same length and assembling the parts is faster than say using

mitered corners.

I did make a set with moderate corners and it took much longer

to build and if you miters off just a little bit it will show.

Lay out the PVC pipe on the circle you drew earlier and mark the location of the L-bracket holes.

And do this on the opposite side of the pipe.

I was making these with 4 L brackets on each box

but I find the pipe holds well with only two brackets.

Drill the holes in the PVC pipe then insert the bolt and loosely tighten the lock nut.

You want the L bracket to be able to move around a little bit until you put the screws in

the other end of the bracket.

Using the X and the circle to guide the pipe

position screw the L brackets onto the base.

With both brackets screwed to the base tighten the lock nuts on the bolts.

With one washer box complete repeat the steps to build the second box.

I'll put a materials list in the description below with links to where you can buy these materials on Amazon.

Using the link

will help support my channel and it doesn't cost you anything extra.

However, some materials like the PVC pipe, plywood and 2x4 studs can be found at your local hardware store.

Before painting your shiny new washers you need to rough up the surface so the paint will adhere.

I don't recommend using the belt sander. A quick hand sanding

will do the trick.

Here I'm using some cardboard and wire to hold the washers while I spray paint them. If you liked this video

please hit the thumbs up button or leave me a comment or be awesome and do both! See you in the next video!

For more infomation >> How to Build a Washer Toss Game - Duration: 4:30.

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S02E02 - Can I Build a Truck Camper in a Week? - Duration: 8:09.

For more infomation >> S02E02 - Can I Build a Truck Camper in a Week? - Duration: 8:09.

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Building a mitered modern waterfall bench - Duration: 5:15.

today I'm building a mitered modern and waterfall bench. The bench is going to be

18 inches wide when finished.

I wanted to limit the number of boards I

had to glue up so there wouldn't be a lot of seams so I picked out boards that

we're a minimum of 9 inches wide.

once I got the board's home I took some time to

skip plane them to clean them up and get them as flat as I could these boards

are 12 feet long and I kept them the full length during all the milling

operations to ensure that grain would match on the mitered corner

It was a bit of a workout handling all that eight quarter lumber

I placed roller stands on the front and back of the jointer. I set them just a

little bit lower than the table of the jointer. I don't want the wood to

register off the rollers. They're there just in case the long boards get away

from you and I have something to assist in catching them. The one behind their

jointer also gives me a place to rest the heavy boards while I get them in

place. When I set up my shop I set up all the stationary tools so they face the

bay door, this way when I have projects like this I can open the door and have

plenty of room to joint, plane, and rip long boards.

when doing the glue up I use Domino's to help keep the board's aligned

I was also careful with my domino layout to be sure I would not put one where the

legs are going to be mitered.

One of the Domino mortises was a little bit off left to right but I didn't

notice it until after the glue had been spread so there's a little bit more work

to get it together than necessary.

I cut the pieces apart using my track saw to miter the legs. I double-checked I had

the right leg on the right end and laid out for some Domino's. I use the largest

Domino's that would fit and place them pretty close together to be sure I had a

good strong joint. Then I use a little CA glue on some pine blocks to help clamp

the pieces together making sure the miter was being closed tight on both top

and bottom

I use shims under the pieces to help align the legs flush to the top. m It was

basically my third hand while getting everything clamped up.

A light tap with a mallet and chisel was all that was needed to pop the glue

blocks off. Then I just scraped and sanded the excess CA glue away.

Then for the finish I use four coats of wipe on satin poly