Auto news on Youtube Jan 12 2018

What's up esk8ers it's Neil with Big Kids and on this channel we talk

about DIY tips, vendors, and the electric skateboard community. If you're new here

please consider subscribing to see more videos just like this one. And don't

forget to check the show notes below for any notes or links I leave in the

description. This is part 2 of my DIY electric skateboard build where I put

together the battery and electronics. But before I do I owe one winner a prize

from my last raffle giveaway. And the winner of the one-fifth scale hoverboard

from the movie Back to the Future is

Jacob! Jacob congratulations and thank you to everybody that actually

participated in the raffle giveaway. We do have another raffle giveaway that's

going to be sponsored by Build Kit Boards. Build Kits Boards is a DIY

esk8 vendor with a lot of experience and awesome reputation in the esk8

community. Click the link in the description to see how you could win

these 90 millimeter flywheel clones as well as these awesome motor mounts that

you could use for your own DIY build. Now let's get into the video.

To power the electric skateboard we want to take our two 5s lipo batteries and make it into

one 10s lipo pack. Each lipo has a positive terminal and a negative terminal. So

by connecting the positive lead of one battery to the negative lead in the

opposite battery will join these lipos in series making it a 10s or a 42 volt

battery pack. So basically how we're gonna do that oh well we're gonna do it

with this this is called a series connector and I'm gonna show you how to

make that right now so here's what we're gonna need some 10 gauge wire 4

millimeter htx connectors at least a hundred watt soldering iron soldering

flux electric soldering rosin some wire cutters get some tweezers first measure

the wire to about 3 or 4 inches cut three equal sizes to pieces in black and

one in red then you're going to need to break out those four millimeter htx

connectors so that we could solder them to those wires but before we do that

make sure you're in a ventilated area so the first step we're gonna want to make

sure to outline this we want the positive of this lipo battery to go into

the negative terminal of this lipo battery on this you'll see that they

have one side that's a male and one side that's a female the female is actually a

little bit larger and then the male is a little bit smaller that's what she said

or he said so in order for us to connect these two

we're gonna have to make sure the placement is correct so male to female

and vice versa and there you go so now that we've done that we're gonna trace

back this positive wire connect it to the first connector that we've connected

I like to dip the exposed wire ends into some flux

this will help soldering rosin seep fully into that exposed ends of the wire

also you might want to use some kind of helping hands or if you don't have any

just use some pliers because the wires might get hot keep your iron tip on the

exposed wire for a few seconds then add the solder and make sure the solder

melts and seeps into the exposed wire

what also helps is tending the 4 millimeter htx connectors keep the metal

point of the connector and add the solder you can expect a small pool of

solder to accumulate inside the connection point and make sure to do the

same for both sides now let's solder the positive wire to the correct terminal on

the connector by heating up both the terminal and the wire it's vital to

connect the wire to the correct terminal so if you need to go back to the battery

and map out which terminal on the series connector will be connecting to the

positive side of the battery so one thing that you're going to want is heat

shrink these bear-like terminals they can be real dangerous if they touch

things because it's that the current is actually going through these so you're

going to want to cover this with an insulation and this is the heat shrink

right here

now that that's complete you could connect this side and it should connect

nicely take it out right away because this is pretty much live wire I mean

these are two but they're kind of insulated and covered if you could next

add together to this negative you can see a huge spark damage your battery

hurt yourself possibly so always unplug after you're using it just the reference

so this side we're gonna want to make sure that the connector is correct on

this side we want this positive side that we're connecting to go into the

negative the negative is using the smaller sized terminal and so in order

for this to fit correctly the male to the female once again so in this case

this is going to connect the larger side on here so that's what we're gonna do

next so before I do anything we're going to be closing up this connection and so

I recommend putting that heat shrink on before soldering the wire to the

connection so my soldering iron is tinned the end of this wire is tinned

and then we've also attend the end of this connector lastly I have a heat

shrink on so let's connect these two

so these are done the best way to tell if something is soldered well number one

is that you hated both connections you want to heat up the connection on here

and then heat it on here so you got to keep that iron on that place for a

pretty long time and then you really could just pull at it as hard as you can

and if you can't take that off you've done a good job

so let's slide that heat shrink over the connection there you got it that's the

first part so here we got our set up as for now so once I am going to plug this

in I don't recommend you do this at home just yet but for the sake of showing you

now you have the positive wire going all the way through here into the negative

wire and then one positive wire that is loose on this side you also have a

negative wire that's loose so one positive and one negative will make this

basically into one big battery but now you have two ends that are loose and you

don't want to touch them you don't want to touch them together because you get a

big spark maybe explode some stuff which is not good the negative wire on this

side is gonna be the negative wire for this big battery I want to put this

negative wire here to kind of show that's going to be the negative wire

going out on this side we have the positive wire going out of here so I'd

like to put this over here and now we have one big battery going to where

these are going into to basically power the V ESC but what I'm gonna be putting

in between there is an on and off switch these are the female and they're going

to be go and the male is going to be from the VSC

so those connect to the V ESC and then like

said the connector is going to be going in between so what we're left with here

is a male XT 90 connector and the best way to connect that is with a female

side let's follow this again the positive is always marked with red so

we're going to put that on that side like that and the negative is always

marked with black and what I'm doing here is just aligning these two

connectors to remember how it's all going to flow so positive goes into this

side which is the flat side and then the positive is on this side which is also

the flat side of this connector this is the negative which goes on to kind of

the triangle side and then this is the negative connector that goes into this

kind of triangle sign so here's the diagram of what we have to create next

let's go

again we're going to want to put our heat shrink on before soldering because

we're not going to be able to get it on after we close up that circuit

so here's where we are at this point we've finished everything up on this

side we want the positive to go into this positive and connect into this

negative so let's connect those and now that we have this XT 90 connector we

want to connect that to the the button and the V ESC and so I've matched that

up this is the positive it's gone into this negative portion and then this

positive is the loose end going up into here and we're going to match that up

with the positive on this end same on this side you've got the negative coming

out on this side going up here into the negative of this terminal and that will

go match up with here so you can actually connect these two together and

nothing will explode so what I found putting my first electric skateboard

together was that coming around to finding an enclosure for all of the

components the batteries and the vests is very very important but it isn't

cheap so I did find an easier solution this is just some Tupperware the nice

thing about it is that it has these clamps on the side or clamps which I

think you're gonna keep it really secure and it fits all of my electronics I'm

gonna I'm gonna bolt it down to right here and hopefully that does the trick

you spring this 3m rubberized paint onto a Tupperware container this enclosure

will serve as a storage and protection for the batteries and electronics I

chose a Tupperware container that will open and shut easily in case I need to

service the electronics or charge the batteries plus it's a cheap solution

so I've done a couple things off-camera right now that I should have recorded

but the the enclosure is all dry and then what I ended up doing is just

taking some some bolts and drilling some holes through the wood of this deck so

that they pop out on this side and then what I did is I put on nuts that

actually fit into these to keep this all fastened together here you see some some

velcro these velcro straps are going to help with keeping the battery in place

so I put one on the battery and then one on the bottom portion of here actually

put one up here too to put the vest and then one over here for the button so the

VSC controls the voltage as well as the amps sent to the motor and it has these

wires called phase wires the bullet connectors in these actually match up

with the bullet connectors on the motor these are also phase wires and you can

actually plug them into any of the plug connections that you have over here it

doesn't matter but what you're gonna want to make sure in the end is that

this motor is spinning the correct way if it's not spinning the correct way you

can always switch the phase wires around until it actually

does but I've already color-coded these so I know that when I plug these in in

this sequence the motor will go forward

so how is this gonna get powered it gets powered by plugging a power source like

the batteries that we have but before we do that I want to use an on and off

switch and this will plug into this on-and-off switch that I actually have

right here all I did was drill a hole and then insert this switch and then on

the other side of the switch is some threads and

you just have to screw this nut on so that it can screw in nicely so that

plugs into here and then we're going to want to match we're going to plug this

in so this says out so the power is going into here and the power is going

out to here into the V ESC so here I have the lipo batteries connected to the

series connector we made we're going to want to plug this in to the in portion

if you could see that right there it says in of the plug so that's all

plugged up now and we should be able to be able to press this button so just so

you could see the sequence of electronics we have the lipo batteries

two separate lipo batteries which are connected to the series connectors which

are then connected to the on/off switch and then the switch is drilled right

here the on/off switch connects to the V ESC and the V ESC connects to the motor

alright so there you have it I hope that this electronics and battery tutorial

was helpful and because it took me so long to explain I'll be continuing the V

ESC and the RC remote configuration in a part three DIY video if you're looking

to join the raffle giveaway don't forget to check out the link below because I'm

giving away motor mounts and wheels so there's a chance for two winners in the

meantime if you have any questions please leave it in the comments below

and as always thanks for checking out my channel and subscribe to see more videos

like this one purrs oh hey all right don't forget to

check out this video part one of my tutorial or this video on how to balance

charge your batteries and if you haven't noticed I'm wearing some new gear this

is some escape gear brought to you by big kits check the

link below to purchase your own seagull

For more infomation >> HOW TO BUILD A DIY ELECTRIC⚡ SKATEBOARD TUTORIAL PART 2 - BATTERIES & ELECTRONICS - Duration: 17:39.

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How to Build a Fixed Wooden Ladder | Mitre 10 Easy As - Duration: 11:59.

Fixed wooden ladders can be pretty handy they can really smarten up a set of

bunks or help you get to a mezzanine bed I'll show you how to build a nice and

solid one yourself. Now the great thing about this project we only need a couple

of items to put it all together. Our sides, some rungs, a couple of screws and

some glue. Before you get into it make sure you are building the ladder to suit

your needs. But as a rule of thumb, your ladder

should be no more than 600 millimeters wide and your rung should be at least 32

millimeters thick. Now the first thing I'm gonna do is cut my sides to length so

I'm making my ladder 2.2 overall now I'm going to put a slight angle on one end

just to sort of give it a little bit of form. So the next thing I'm going to do

is mark out for our rungs and I'm going to space our runs at 250 mil to

the center so coming off the bottom which I've lift nice and square, just gonna

to mark 250, 500, 750, a metre, 1250, 15 hundy, 1750, 2 metres. Ok so the next thing

I need to do is just square those marks around all four sides of our pieces of

timber. Now as you're doing this it's really important that you have a really

nice sharp pencil. If you've got a blunt pencil it's not gonna give you a nice

sharp line and it could put all your measurements out. I'm now just going to

set my combination square to 35 millimeters. I got a 90 ml wide piece of

timber I'm not going to set these rungs in the center of them I'm just going to

have them slightly forward a little bit more. We are going to put a foot on the

back, the reason I'm going to put these rungs just a little bit more further

forward it just gives me a little bit more scope when you're standing on the

rungs that your foot is a little bit further off the wall so I'm just setting

that to 35 mil and then I'm just gonna mark where it hits our rung line and

I'll do that on both sides of the timber. So the next thing I need to do is cut

my dowel. Now I've got eight rungs, I need to chop eight lengths of this, now the

overall width of my ladder is 500 millimetres now I'm going to allow the

dowel to penetrate past the side of my ladder 10 millimetres so that's

520 mil I'm going to cut these, that way when the letter is all

nice and dry I can cut the excess off.

The next thing I have to do is drill all the way through now I'm using a 35mm dowel,

so what I'm going to use is a 35 mil forstner drill bit, these are really

nice and sharp it's going to give me a really good accurate cut. So what I'm

gonna do is drill halfway through, flip it over and then carry on from the other

side. The reason I'm going to do that is because if I was to carry on drilling

all the way through from one side it's got to blow out the back and it's gonna

be pretty ugly. Now there's a couple of different ways we can go about this,

I can use my battery drill and keep that really nice and plumb or I can just use

a drill press like over here which I'm gonna use. I've screwed a piece of ply to

the base of my drill press and just put a little back guard on there, so all I need

to do is slide my side through and just drill on my marks. Now I'm just gonna

go halfway through, flip it over, and then do the same on the other side.

So the next thing I need to do is cut a slot in the end of my piece of timber

like I've done here. Now the reason for that is once my dowel goes through the

side of my ladder, I'm gonna put a wedge into that slot and

then so what's going to happen as that dowel is gonna slightly spread and the

wedge in there is going to hold that dowel into the side of the ladder really

nice and tight without that the glues just gonna sit in there and that could

eventually force out. Now there's a couple of different ways you can

actually cut this, now I'm going against the grain, as you can see the grain is

going sideways that way. I'm gonna put this straight up and down perpendicular

to that line the reason for that, when my wedge goes in it's got to stand out a

lot more as if I was going with the grain. Now the next thing I'm going to do

is mark 30 millimetres back from that line just to make sure when I actually

cut through I'm not going to come any further. The reason for that is the width

of my side of my ladder is 30 millimetres and I'm sticking out 10 so

what that allows is the wedge to go in 25 mil.

Sweet. Now just do the same for all the rest.

So, I'm going to make my wedge 90 millimetres long by about 12 millimetres

wide, so not too fat quite nice and sharp. So I'm just going to sit that nice and

square across the back of my table and I'm just going to pull that around till

it's approximately on that angle.

Next thing we need to do is put some PVA glue inside our holes and then we're

going to insert our rung.

Now I just want this to protrude through

10 millimetres. Okay, so that's pretty good so now all I have to do is exactly the

same for all the rest.

Okay that's lovely. Now if you're really worried about

making sure all these slots line up you can do so but I'm not too worried I kind

of like it, they're a little bit random that they're not all in a nice straight line.

Now I've just thrown some 10 mil

packers underneath so that just sits on the table quite nicely. Next thing I need to

do is take a square and just make sure that my dowels are all sitting nice and square.

They're all looking pretty good that could go

over a millimeter.

Excellent. Right, next thing we're gonna do, take some sandpaper and

I'm just going to sand up the edges of the top of the dowel just so when I

put my other side on it's not gonna catch on any little daggy bits.

The next thing I'm gonna do, is take a couple of packers and I'm gonna clamp them to our

rungs now the over all of my ladder is 500 millimetres the thickness of my

sides is 35 mil so if I take 570 mil the difference of that is 430, so I've cut

these packers 430 mil and all I'm gonna do is just clamp that temporarily

to my rung, so when I put my other side in I know exactly the height to go to.

Primo, now all I have to do is glue up the other side like I did the first, just

slip that over. I've just apply glue to every hole now all we're going to do is

roll it on to the rungs. Now there's no great easy way to do this you just have

to line up each rung and tap away gently.

Hammer this side on until the rungs protrude ten millimeters just like the

other side. Now apply a liberal amount of glue, just force that into your slot,

do that on all of them and then we'll insert our wedge.

Now you just wanna insert that wedge really nice and tight, pretty much till the wedge can't go any further.

Now as you're going, it's quite good to have a damp rag on hand just to clean up

any little bits of muck that goes onto your timber. When you're done do the same

for the other side. Now I've just let that sit overnight so I'm ready to cut these off.

Now a wee little tip when cutting these off, just put your saw approximately a mil or

half a mil off the edge of this and we could always sand that down flush if we

put our handsaw hard up against that we're going to get the teeth marks on

the side of our timber and that means it's just going to take longer to sand

it down later.

Now just repeat the same for the rest. And then give the sides a sand with

your belt sander until they're nice and flush. Okay I've just cut some blocks that I'm

gonna screw to the back of my ladder so just remember we did set our dowels to

the front of our ladder and we are going to fix these to the back. Now all I've

done is cut that 180 millimeters long and I've cut a 15 degree angle, you can

cut whatever angle you like, so I've pre-drilled a 3 mil hole in the

centre of that block. Now I've got 150 millimetre long bugle screw that I'm

going to put through the block into our piece of timber, so I've already got one

set up here. Now I've just protruded that bugle screw through about 2

millimetres. Now I'm just going to set that up in the middle between our two

rungs and all I'm going to do is use that screw to give myself a little mark.

So that's just left a little impression on the back of our ladder so we can go

through with our 3 mil drill bit and pre-drill a hole. So I'm just going to apply a little

bit of PVA to the back.

Just making sure they're nice and flush.

Lovely.

Wipe off any excess glue and when it's set, give the whole ladder a finer sand with

your orbital sander for a nice smooth finish.

You can then stain, varnish or paint to suit. If you're installing the ladder to

a set of bunks screw it in place from behind using coach screws. If you're

installing the ladder onto a wall then you'll need to use four heavy-duty

90 degree brackets and make sure you're fixing it to something solid.

If you're unsure how to fix it check with a licensed building practitioner.

All done.

There's your completed ladder. It looks pretty good and it was easy as.

For more infomation >> How to Build a Fixed Wooden Ladder | Mitre 10 Easy As - Duration: 11:59.

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Primitive Technology: Build a Stone House - Full Video - Duration: 2:33:26.

I build this stone house using only primitive tools and materials.

For more infomation >> Primitive Technology: Build a Stone House - Full Video - Duration: 2:33:26.

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Bishop Daly: 'We will build a culture of life in eastern Washington' - Duration: 0:53.

I'm Bishop Tom Daly from the Diocese of Spokane in eastern Washington, and I'd

like to thank our young people, especially the Students for Life at

Gonzaga University, our young people in Walla Walla, in Pasco, in Spokane, and

the northern part of our diocese who take a strong stand for life.

We have our Walk for Life in January, downtown Spokane with a mass

at Our Lady of Lourdes Cathedral,

yet we know the movement for pro-life has to go beyond that one day.

It is something we do every day. I ask that you help, together with Mary's

intercession and God's grace, that we will build a culture of life in eastern Washington.

God bless and thank you.

you